New oil change to come

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I've been running Mobil 1 15W-50 in my Nissan Z32 for about 2,000 miles and for some reason it has made my motor develop a lifter tick that develops after warming up (I think it's just a tad thick for the cooler weather we have been experiencing lately and not letting the oil get to the lifter properly). I decided today to get a quart of Mobil 1 synthetic ATF and I poured about 1/2 of it into the crankcase. I am gonna go drive it for about 50 miles or so later tonight and see if it clears up the ticking. While I was at the store I picked up a gallon of Shell T6 5W-40 that I have been wanting to try for some time now and I figured I would stray away from OEM oil filters and try out a Purolator filter, since I have heard good things about them from this forum. Hopefully the ATF will quite down my engine a bit and make it sound normal again.
 
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Why ATF?

What does your car spec as far as oil weight?
Do you have any mods?

Wouldn't a synthetic 20 weight done the same thing as the ATF? Most ATF is around a 20 weight and has less dispersant and detergents than ATF.

I currently have a neighbor who runs a 50 weight oil in everything he has. So far he has replaced an engine in his Suburban and a Acura due to "Spun Bearings".

I've tried to get him to this site, but he believes "thicker is better". Too bad his engines aren't getting the lubrication they need.
 
I have heard numerous stories of running ATF for about 20-30 miles and then changing your oil and I know many members on my 3ZC forum have had success doing this method. The car "typically" calls for 10w30 but that was back in 1990 and it specifies that a 15W-50 can be used if the temperature is 50 degrees or above. I have been running the Mobil 1 15W-50 for about 2k and I do agree it may be a bit on the thicker side so thats what I opted for the Shell T6 5W-40. I have a few mods, but mostly the thicker weights are better for these cars due to the cramped engine bays, which inevitably cause high temperatures.
 
Originally Posted By: SuperDave456
Why ATF?

What does your car spec as far as oil weight?
Do you have any mods?

Wouldn't a synthetic 20 weight done the same thing as the ATF? Most ATF is around a 20 weight and has less dispersant and detergents than ATF.

I currently have a neighbor who runs a 50 weight oil in everything he has. So far he has replaced an engine in his Suburban and a Acura due to "Spun Bearings".

I've tried to get him to this site, but he believes "thicker is better". Too bad his engines aren't getting the lubrication they need.


Your neighbor is a tool!
 
Originally Posted By: TomYoung
Originally Posted By: SuperDave456
Why ATF?

What does your car spec as far as oil weight?
Do you have any mods?

Wouldn't a synthetic 20 weight done the same thing as the ATF? Most ATF is around a 20 weight and has less dispersant and detergents than ATF.

I currently have a neighbor who runs a 50 weight oil in everything he has. So far he has replaced an engine in his Suburban and a Acura due to "Spun Bearings".

I've tried to get him to this site, but he believes "thicker is better". Too bad his engines aren't getting the lubrication they need.


Your neighbor is a tool!


Some people just don't want to learn.
 
If your neighbor has had 2 engines with spun bearings why in the world would he still think thicker is better. The only benefit of thicker is in high heat, high rpm usage.
 
I don't think that the M1 15W-50 caused your lifter tick.
I've run 15K in my two Hondas on the same oil in warm weather, and had no problems.
I don't think that the oil caused the problem.
A current 30 or 40 would probably be fine in your engine.
Try some of the FAR Valvoline "Racing" 10w30, just as an example, and see what happens.
Usually, I would expect a lifter tick on start-up, not once everything is warmed up.
Does this engine have solid or hydraulic lifters?
If hydraulic, then you may simply have a bit of crud blocking flow through the lifter.
I have not tried either, but some report good results in freeing hyraulic lifters using either Rislone or MMO.
ARX is another possible choice.
If you have a small sludge problem, you have only seen the start of hydraulic lifter problems.
ATF is probably not going to help.
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
I don't think that the M1 15W-50 caused your lifter tick.
I've run 15K in my two Hondas on the same oil in warm weather, and had no problems.
I don't think that the oil caused the problem.
A current 30 or 40 would probably be fine in your engine.
Try some of the FAR Valvoline "Racing" 10w30, just as an example, and see what happens.
Usually, I would expect a lifter tick on start-up, not once everything is warmed up.
Does this engine have solid or hydraulic lifters?
If hydraulic, then you may simply have a bit of crud blocking flow through the lifter.
I have not tried either, but some report good results in freeing hyraulic lifters using either Rislone or MMO.
ARX is another possible choice.
If you have a small sludge problem, you have only seen the start of hydraulic lifter problems.
ATF is probably not going to help.


These cars come with hydraulic lifters and I'm beginning to think one or more of my lifters has possibly collapsed. I know its not a spun bearing, but it just sounds like a knocking noise and it doesn't affect the way it drives or performs in any way shape or form and the noise goes away with higher rpm's. The only time you can hear it is at idle only after the engine has been fully warmed up. On initial start it runs very quiet and normal. I am replacing all the injectors, gaskets and putting new injectors connectors on next week so I guess I will see if that helps any with my misfiring.
 
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15w50 is to heavy and transmission fluid does NOT belong in that engine...
use a 10w30 in the summer and the engine will run cooler due to better and faster circulation of the oil...
I say this all the time use what the engine manufacture says to use they do know something about engines...>We listen to them when we rebuild an engine if it says use 5w30 than use it if it says use 5w20 then use it... Thicker is not always better not anymore
 
I was only running ATF for maybe 20 miles and that was to see if it would free up the collapsed lifter which I'm starting to think it is.
 
Kinda of agree with, crazyoildude, a thinner oil (or spec.) may help the lifters operate properly.

Oil has to pump up to the lifter valley in order for the lifters to collect it and it has to be thin enough to enter the lifter too.

Changing to a rotella T5 10w30 wouldn't be a bad idea as it still has all the HD additives (that keep hyd. lifter alive) and has been used to free sticking lifter caused by sludge.
 
I'm hoping this Shell T6 5W-40 will do the trick, or at least quiet down my motor a little bit. I would like to keep running synthetics only especially since my car is driven pretty spiritually lol.
 
I once had a lifter tick develop in my '88 Suburban with the TBI 454. It started after a long tow; no noise when I shut the engine down, but when I started it up the next morning, it had a major lifter noise. I took it to a local mechanic, and he poured in a bottle of "Hydra Valve Clean" when the engine was idling. Like magic, the lifter noise went away in 5 seconds.

I drove the 'burb for 8 years after that and never had the noisy lifter flare up again. I've always assumed that Hydra Valve Clean was some kind of solvent like MMO, but have never seen it in an auto parts store.
 
I might just try rebuilding the lifters at some point in time and seeing if that cures the problem..idk
 
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You guys...this Shell T6 oil has completely eradicated all knocking noises from my engine...I'm speechless right now. Mobil 1 never did anything for it no matter what viscosity I used and Shell just knocked it out of the park. I'm so [censored] happy you have no idea lol.
 
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