New guy, oil weight question

[Hunter0811]

I'm not picking favorites at all, I'm glad to have ALL of your responses and thanks again. I did have it changed today to Pennzoil 5w30 conventional, turns out Jiffy Lube broke the original drain plug last time and just put it back in without replacing it. I'm kicking myself for not noticing it or looking at the plug afterwords. So I was pretty low on oil to begin with, and the truck runs MUCH smoother now all around, especially on acceleration. I stuck with 5w30 because I wanted to stick with one brand/weight for all seasons, despite my oldest brother trying to talk me into 10w40. If I experience any issues next time, perhaps I'll consider changing again. For now, I'm much happier. Not to say I won't keep reading on here, I'm kind of ashamed for not knowing much about motor oil beforehand. Thanks again everyone (I will add for the sake of temperature discussion, that during the winter we can occasionally see 0- temperatures, it just made more sense if I wanted to stay with an all season)

 

[AEHaas]

"'I'm not familiar with the climate where he lives but I doubt the 10w30 would need to be changed for the winter. Why is it that everyone is so careful about the cold end of things with no regard to the hot side. "

...because more wear occurs during the first 20 minutes of driving when the oil is getting up to normal operating temperature than during the next 30 hours of driving when the oil is at the normal operating temperature.

aehaas

 

[daman]

The Pennzoil Conventional 5w30 will treat you right,and work great all year around,next time try Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 a synthetic version of the yellow bottle and will add an edge in cold start ups and high heat priced right at wal-mart for $20.

keep reading TONS of good info here.
Originally Posted By: AEHaas
things with no regard to the hot side.

because once at op temp there both a 30w,so why not have a slight edge in cold start ups with 5w and just run it year around.

 

[Hunter0811]

I will do (reading the good info), and I saw the platinum 5w30 for $14 in five quart jugs today. I'll do the next change myself, perhaps I'll give that a shot eh? Much appreciated

 

[daman]

Originally Posted By: Hunter0811
I will do (reading the good info), and I saw the platinum 5w30 for $14 in five quart jugs today. I'll do the next change myself, perhaps I'll give that a shot eh? Much appreciated

PP is a great oil priced right and can do 7-8k easly.

 

[Hunter0811]

I'm kinda OCD with everything I own, it probably still wouldn't see 5k without a change Besides, changing oil would give me something to do. Everything I've read about it seems great.

 

[BuickGN]

Originally Posted By: AEHaas
"'I'm not familiar with the climate where he lives but I doubt the 10w30 would need to be changed for the winter. Why is it that everyone is so careful about the cold end of things with no regard to the hot side. "

...because more wear occurs during the first 20 minutes of driving when the oil is getting up to normal operating temperature than during the next 30 hours of driving when the oil is at the normal operating temperature.

aehaas


And you don't know if that is due to the viscosity or the parts expanding to their proper clearances.

 

[rpn453]

Originally Posted By: BuickGN
To the guys recommending the 5w over the 10w30 for summertime cruising down the freeway, why? I'm honestly curious as to why you make this recommendation.


Unlike 15w40, There's nothing about the 10w30 grade itself that indicates it will perform better at high temperatures than a 5w30. In general, I believe they use higher quality base stocks to make 5w30 to meet modern specs than they do with 10w30, so you end up with similar high temperature protection but the 10w30 is cheaper to make. Twenty years ago, when the API specs were weak, you'd be better off with a 10w30. But I don't think there's any advantage now. I also don't think there's any significant disadvantage to using 10w30 in warm weather, and I don't think you're doing your engine any harm by using 10w30 unless you're running close to or beyond -30C (-22F), but why sacrifice that extra little bit of fuel economy when the cost of the oil is typically the same?

 

[BuickGN]

Originally Posted By: rpn453
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
To the guys recommending the 5w over the 10w30 for summertime cruising down the freeway, why? I'm honestly curious as to why you make this recommendation.


Unlike 15w40, There's nothing about the 10w30 grade itself that indicates it will perform better at high temperatures than a 5w30. In general, I believe they use higher quality base stocks to make 5w30 to meet modern specs than they do with 10w30, so you end up with similar high temperature protection but the 10w30 is cheaper to make. Twenty years ago, when the API specs were weak, you'd be better off with a 10w30. But I don't think there's any advantage now. I also don't think there's any significant disadvantage to using 10w30 in warm weather, and I don't think you're doing your engine any harm by using 10w30 unless you're running close to or beyond -30C (-22F), but why sacrifice that extra little bit of fuel economy when the cost of the oil is typically the same?


This is what I don't get. The thin oil crowd is extremely quick to say all 5w30 quickly shears to a 20wt for one argument and change their tune to fit another argument. I said all else being equal 10w30 will be more robust. Not comparing a $.99 conventional 10w30 to something like Redline 5w30.

 

[FZ1]

Oh,puleeze! You're running a straight 30 weight in an 06 Acura! Lol.
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Originally Posted By: AEHaas
"'I'm not familiar with the climate where he lives but I doubt the 10w30 would need to be changed for the winter. Why is it that everyone is so careful about the cold end of things with no regard to the hot side. "

...because more wear occurs during the first 20 minutes of driving when the oil is getting up to normal operating temperature than during the next 30 hours of driving when the oil is at the normal operating temperature.

aehaas


And you don't know if that is due to the viscosity or the parts expanding to their proper clearances.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: FZ1
Oh,puleeze! You're running a straight 30 weight in an 06 Acura! Lol.
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Originally Posted By: AEHaas
"'I'm not familiar with the climate where he lives but I doubt the 10w30 would need to be changed for the winter. Why is it that everyone is so careful about the cold end of things with no regard to the hot side. "

...because more wear occurs during the first 20 minutes of driving when the oil is getting up to normal operating temperature than during the next 30 hours of driving when the oil is at the normal operating temperature.

aehaas


And you don't know if that is due to the viscosity or the parts expanding to their proper clearances.


Wow, now that's an argument.

What is this, grade 4?

 

[Zaedock]

Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Originally Posted By: AEHaas
"'I'm not familiar with the climate where he lives but I doubt the 10w30 would need to be changed for the winter. Why is it that everyone is so careful about the cold end of things with no regard to the hot side. "

...because more wear occurs during the first 20 minutes of driving when the oil is getting up to normal operating temperature than during the next 30 hours of driving when the oil is at the normal operating temperature.

aehaas


And you don't know if that is due to the viscosity or the parts expanding to their proper clearances.


I'm going to speculate that it could be more the latter. I was able to get single digit wear numbers running Delo SAE30 (12.1cSt@100C) in my 2.5L trail Jeep. The 2.5L/4.0L engines are historically higher in iron on used oil analysis (to my knowledge, exactly where this iron comes from has yet to be determined, at least here on BITOG). I must start/stop the thing about 20-30 times a run, executing an obstacle, pulling ahead, shutting down, and watching the next guy. Then we do it again.

Despite the oil temp being low and thus, more viscous, the engine components are much warmer and "fit" better than they would as opposed to a cold start. Of course, this is all just speculation.

In the end I wish I cared for my Jeep's body as much as the oil that goes in. I do run 5W30 in winter though.

 

[bigmike]

Originally Posted By: Hunter0811
I'm not picking favorites at all, I'm glad to have ALL of your responses and thanks again. I did have it changed today to Pennzoil 5w30 conventional, turns out Jiffy Lube broke the original drain plug last time and just put it back in without replacing it. I'm kicking myself for not noticing it or looking at the plug afterwords. So I was pretty low on oil to begin with, and the truck runs MUCH smoother now all around, especially on acceleration. I stuck with 5w30 because I wanted to stick with one brand/weight for all seasons, despite my oldest brother trying to talk me into 10w40. If I experience any issues next time, perhaps I'll consider changing again. For now, I'm much happier. Not to say I won't keep reading on here, I'm kind of ashamed for not knowing much about motor oil beforehand. Thanks again everyone (I will add for the sake of temperature discussion, that during the winter we can occasionally see 0- temperatures, it just made more sense if I wanted to stay with an all season)


Pennzoil 5w30 is what I've used for the last 47,000 miles on my 4.8. No problems.

 

[jstutz]

Guys, i have three GM trucks that have 4.3, 4.3 , 5.7. The 93 C1500WT 4.3 has 212k miles on it now and spent the first 97k miles in PA as a company work truck. It was cared for pretty well but ran nothing but fleet 15w40, yes even in the 0F winters. Once i bought it i used it to drive to college and work. Since i bought it i have put about 115k miles on it. Mostly using rotella 15w40. Truck still runs great. im starting to notice a little knocking upon start up lately. Maybe due to its long use of 15w40 in cold pa weather, im not sure. it burns about a qt/4k miles. I have tried some 5w30 conventionals and really have not noticed a fuel mileage increase. I track mileage every single fill up and have for the last 5 yrs so i would notice. I was also driving about 100 miles a day on the interstate so oil was warm for most of the miles. My blazer with a 4.3 is a different story, I bought it new in 01 and have run Mobil 1 5w30 since day one. At 175k miles it had a LIMG leak and stuck up a lifter and sludged up the engine a little. After fixing that i ran some 15w40 thru it to clean it up a little and it being spring in NC at the time I felt comfortable doing so. We use this truck as a run around truck ,it gets many short trips, and i definately noticed an increase in mpg when i drained the w40 out and refilled with syntec 10w30. Nothing special to say about the 350, so i wont say anything. My point is that you can probably use any darn thing you want if the conditions are correct. If you are doing alot of short trips in summer, you will notice a decrease in mpg, maybe slight, but it will be there. If it is winter, it will be very noticable. My blazer as an avg changed 1.6 mpg with the thinner oil. Like i said it was many short trips. If you were to driving many long trips, i dont think you would notice the difference in the 15w40 vs xw30. This is even more true for the lower reving v8s vs the v6's. Im not recomending anything but just making a point that depending on conditions, anything from 5w20 to 15w40 will work very well in these engines. One thing to keep in mind about high mileage oils is they "generally" have a little higher HT/HS than the regular. I have done a lot of experiments and research on oils and would like to say to people that are using 15w40 in <20F temps, throw a bottle of rotella and a bottle of 5w30 conventional and a bottle of 5w30syn in the freezer, then make your decision. Side note is i just read a post on here from a guy that used 20w50 in his tahoe for a long time and things are still going well. It would be interesting to know how much extra money he spent in fuel over the last 5 years though.

 

[rpn453]

Originally Posted By: BuickGN
This is what I don't get. The thin oil crowd is extremely quick to say all 5w30 quickly shears to a 20wt for one argument and change their tune to fit another argument. I said all else being equal 10w30 will be more robust. Not comparing a $.99 conventional 10w30 to something like Redline 5w30.


I do agree that it's possible make a 10w30 more robust than a 5w30, and that you can find 10w30 oils that will handle the high temperatures better than any 5w30 oils, but I don't think there's a big difference in general. If I wanted to take the next step up in high temperature protection, I think the easiest, cheapest, and surest way to do it is with a 15w40, where temperatures permit. But I've never seen any reason to doubt any modern 5w30 that meets the required specs. I don't even really stay on top of this section or the used oil analysis section of the forum anymore. Have there been any bad 5w30 used oil analysis lately?