This is my first post and I joined because there is so much info and opinions out on oil. I am building a high performance 302 for my 65 Mustang. It is a roller and not flat tappet cam. I have read the virtues of synthetics and some of the additives needed to break in a new engine but still have no idea of which way to go. My questions are what is best to use for break in? How long do I leave the break in oil in before changing? How long before I swap to a synthetic (I read no sooner than 6000 miles)? I live in NC, don't drive my car often but drive it hard. I tried to find some posts here before I sent this elementary post but had no real luck. Thanks for your patience and help.
New guy,ancient question
- Thread starter 1965Mustang
- Start date
- Status
Yes you can use most synthetic oils in new engines.
Since you don't have a flat tappet engine any 5w30 oil should be fine as available from Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platnium or Pennzoil Ultra just to name three.
Since you don't have a flat tappet engine any 5w30 oil should be fine as available from Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platnium or Pennzoil Ultra just to name three.
Personally I would go with a 5w30 conventional for a few hours then change it. 5w30 conventional again for 2k or so and drain it then go with whatever brand/type you want.
As far as break in oil, yes I would use it. Brad Penn, Joe Gibbs and comp cams all sell break in oil. 200 miles is what I gather they say to use it. My preference for oil after BR oil would be a euro oil like castrol 0w30 GC or brad penn. The Joe Gibbs HR stuff is very good but pricey. I don't like and don't recomend SM or SN api rated oils for a high performance apps even if it has a roller cam. Dan
Last edited:
For the engine break in cycle, if it was me, I'd go 10w-40 along with an engine oil supplement (Rislone, GM EOS, Jegs, etc.) for the first 3,000 miles.
Afterwards, I'd run a 5w30, 5w-40 or 0w-40 synthetic from then on out along with a good high efficiency oil filter.
Afterwards, I'd run a 5w30, 5w-40 or 0w-40 synthetic from then on out along with a good high efficiency oil filter.
Since you have a roller cam you can run any SN oil you want. As far as break in I would run conventional for about 2,000 and get the rings to seat in. There's some debate whether all ring types will break in properly or not with a synthetic. After that you should be able to run synthetic although I'd probably just use conventional.
Food for thought:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Originally Posted By: 1965Mustang
My questions are what is best to use for break in? How long do I leave the break in oil in before changing? How long before I swap to a synthetic (I read no sooner than 6000 miles)?
Here is what I do, 26 years of building engines for Detroit muscle cars:
1) Lowest cost, but good quality dino (SM/SN) for first start, why waste cash on a high priced synthetic for oil you should drain right away? What weight... your call, I use an SL straight 30 but I see no issue with an SM/SN 5w30 or 10w30 just don't put a high priced oil in. You want to change this oil after 20 minutes to rid the crankcase of all the machine slag, filings etc. No matter how clean the engine shop was or your garage for the assembly, dirt and filings will be in that oil. You do not need to use EOS / ZDDPlus etc. with your roller.
2) Second fill (after the 20 minute one) I still use a low cost dino because I change this oil after 1000 miles (same reasons, machine filings, dirt etc.). Your viscosity will ultimately be determined by things you haven't posted (bearing clearance, oil pump type, ring type, etc.) but 10w30 will be fine unless something is extraordinary with your clearances. I hate thick oils (Xw50) they are too hard on timing chains, distributor gears and HP power figures all for nothing. Unless you have fuel dilution issues stay away from thick "wives tales" oil.
3) After this run whatever you want (syn / dino) in an Xw30 or straight 30.
My questions are what is best to use for break in? How long do I leave the break in oil in before changing? How long before I swap to a synthetic (I read no sooner than 6000 miles)?
Here is what I do, 26 years of building engines for Detroit muscle cars:
1) Lowest cost, but good quality dino (SM/SN) for first start, why waste cash on a high priced synthetic for oil you should drain right away? What weight... your call, I use an SL straight 30 but I see no issue with an SM/SN 5w30 or 10w30 just don't put a high priced oil in. You want to change this oil after 20 minutes to rid the crankcase of all the machine slag, filings etc. No matter how clean the engine shop was or your garage for the assembly, dirt and filings will be in that oil. You do not need to use EOS / ZDDPlus etc. with your roller.
2) Second fill (after the 20 minute one) I still use a low cost dino because I change this oil after 1000 miles (same reasons, machine filings, dirt etc.). Your viscosity will ultimately be determined by things you haven't posted (bearing clearance, oil pump type, ring type, etc.) but 10w30 will be fine unless something is extraordinary with your clearances. I hate thick oils (Xw50) they are too hard on timing chains, distributor gears and HP power figures all for nothing. Unless you have fuel dilution issues stay away from thick "wives tales" oil.
3) After this run whatever you want (syn / dino) in an Xw30 or straight 30.
Thanks for the info
Originally Posted By: Mik
Food for thought:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Very interesting article. Thanks
Food for thought:
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Very interesting article. Thanks
Thanks
Thanks for taking the time to give me this info.
Thanks to everyone for all the info.
You're suppose to go with with whichever viscosity gives you 10psi
of oil pressure per every 1000rpm; according to Motor Oil 101.
of oil pressure per every 1000rpm; according to Motor Oil 101.
I just went to the Amsoil site and read about their different oils. I am still trying to figure out what oil is best for me to use in a roller engine pulling about 350 rwhp. What I still do not understand is if it is 0W how any oil is left on the bearings at start-up. Like I said, if you know of any articles. just let me know and I can read them. Do not get too technical as I am new to all this and a lot has been over my head. Thanks for the info.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: tig1
0wt does not mean the oil is thinner. It means the oil is formulated to flow faster in colder temps.
Thanks. That makes sense and is in layman's terms.
0wt does not mean the oil is thinner. It means the oil is formulated to flow faster in colder temps.
Thanks. That makes sense and is in layman's terms.
- Status
Similar threads
