That's why I got one of these. It's self-powered and pulls about 10mA at 120V. Enough to trip a GFCI, enough to be sure that it isn't phantom voltage.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Electronic-AC-DC-Voltage-Tester-ET60/301107510
New GFCI outlet not working
- Thread starter wavinwayne
- Start date
That's why I got one of these. It's self-powered and pulls about 10mA at 120V. Enough to trip a GFCI, enough to be sure that it isn't phantom voltage.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Electronic-AC-DC-Voltage-Tester-ET60/301107510
Mine didn't but the LINE and LOAD were clearly labeled so it was easy to tell which was which.
That's a high-impedance (probably 10 megohms) meter. You can stick one probe into the hot slot of an outlet, touch the other probe with one finger and a grounded metal surface with another finger.
It'll read 120V and you won't feel a thing.
This ability to real full voltage through even the highest resistance connections makes them a bad choice for troubleshooting bad connections.
The meter I linked to above, I purchased specifically because it's a low-impedance meter. I just have to remember I can't use it to measure between hot and ground on a GFCI protected circuit because it WILL trip the GFCI (unless, of course, I want to test the GFCI....)
That makes me wonder if it was a store return...I think there maybe a UL requirement for the sticker covering the LOAD terminals, because *every* GFCI I've purchased in the last 15 years has that sticker.
(I wouldn't put it past some people to replace their defective GFCI with a new one and return the old one in the new box for a refund...)
If that was the case it would trip the GFCI if it was working, right?
Funny, I had this exact situation just the other day. I chalked it up to a bad ‘new’ GFCI receptacle. In my basement back utility room the gfci outlet I use for my treadmill stopped working. I had a new one in my electrical supply drawer of my tool box. Replaced the old with the new. Wouldn’t work. Head scratcher. I’ve done a lot of residential wiring so I was like wth? Removed it and did it again. Nothing. Put in a 99 cent standard receptacle and poof it works fine. I do know that gfci receptacles can be sensitive if packed into the box too tight but that wasn’t the case I had. I just threw it out. I’ll replace the standard outlet with another gfci here soon.
Side note-I put one in a bathroom that never had one, just a regular outlet, and the test and reset buttons work just fine. I thought I would see what would happen if I tossed my electric shaver plug (straight 120v, no brick) in the sink full of water. Nothing.....I'm all pvc plumbing, would that be why? If so seems kinda pointless. Any thoughts?
Water alone is not a good conductor of electricity. Put some salt water in there and try it.
Ground faults monitor the in and out current and make sure they match. You have to leak a little bit "anywhere else".
No. A dirty contact upstream will pass current until it finally corrodes so it doesn't, the GFCI only monitors for a specific condition-- power coming in that isn't going back out through the correct terminal. Arc enough times and copper finally turns black and is too resistive to pass electricity.
Doesn't even need to be a dirty contact. I've had it happen at least 3 times so far when I pull an outlet out of the box (because it isn't working) and one of the backstabbed wires pulls right out of the back.
That's why I only use the screw terminals.
You can use one of these to make sure the outlet is wired properly:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-GFCI-Outlet-Tester-RT210/206517824
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-GFCI-Outlet-Tester-RT210/206517824
The OP has said that he checked the wiring multiple times .
It's possible that there is an issue in between the breaker panel and where the wires terminate inside the box that the tool would detect.
Since I last posted, I went to Home Depot and got a new Leviton GFCI outlet from a new, sealed box, so I know it was unmolested. I also got an outlet tester like chemman suggested. When I tested the first outlet I installed yesterday, the outlet tester lights said my hot and ground were reversed. They absolutely were NOT reversed; everything was wired correctly, so I don't know how to interpret that. Next I installed the new GFCI outlet, paying close attention to wire it correctly, and the tester didn't light up at all. At this point I'm out of ideas. The guy who wired the house I'm living in is my wife's Uncle, and he is coming sometime this weekend to have a look. I'm suspecting a wiring problem that I don't have the ability to fix.
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Are N (white) and G at the same potential?
Pablo, I must plead ignorance; I don't understand the question.
My expertise level with all things electrical is being able to connect the correct wire to the correct terminal whilst not getting electrocuted.
Are they essentially 0 volts measured one lead to each on volt meter set at 50 volts AC or soPablo, I must plead ignorance; I don't understand the question.
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