New filter added to my test (You FRAMmers are gonna love this)

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was the general feeling of this filter. I noticed that when I was at walmart today that every singe ph6811 was an old Allied Signal version. So I figure that it couldn't hurt to take it out of the box and look at it... Then I bought it.

Click me for the results.
 
Are you saying that the ADBV sits on a cardboard endcap on the "new" versions of Frams? I thought just the top/bypass end cap was cardboard! Yikes. Seems like there is plenty of spots for leaks past the filter element with a **** design like that!
 
Thanks for your filter study. Lots of filter manufacturing is moving out of country so we neeed to keep looking.

Fram is consistant in all the studies and rarely gets off the bottom.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Drew99GT:
Are you saying that the ADBV sits on a cardboard endcap on the "new" versions of Frams?

Not only am I saying that, but i'm also saying that compared to the old fram, everything is really loose. In the old one everthing "snapped" into place.
 
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Fantastic test! I really like the part where you explain each part of the filter. I always knew what each part did, but had never seen a web site that showed how they did it! You've englightened me!
 
I have to add that many people have gone many miles with FRAM on their car and nothing happens. My buddy uses Fram and dino and 5-7k OCI on both his VW Golf's (1998,2000) and all still seem well after 100,000 miles. I posted a while ago "Do you actually know any one with an actual FRAM failure?". I did not seem to find many responses indicating failures.

Personally I use either SuperTech or Fram, whichever Walmart installs when they change my oil.
 
There is still no inner support of the ADBV, a very poor design. It still uses cardboard to center everything and the center tube is still loose. Still a very poor filter IMO.

-T
 
quote:

Originally posted by harper:
I have to add that many people have gone many miles with FRAM on their car and nothing happens. My buddy uses Fram and dino and 5-7k OCI on both his VW Golf's (1998,2000) and all still seem well after 100,000 miles.

I personally know many people who have chain smoked all their life and have never died from a smoking related cause.....
 
I've got to say, my Dad has used nothing but pennzoil filters (aka Fram) from the local service station, and never a problem. On occasion though, you can see (when it's REALLY COLD OUT) that it takes maybe a second or two longer to register oil pressure on the gauge when started, and the pressure rises slower than with the Purolators I use.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Drew99GT:
I've got to say, my Dad has used nothing but pennzoil filters (aka Fram) from the local service station, and never a problem. On occasion though, you can see (when it's REALLY COLD OUT) that it takes maybe a second or two longer to register oil pressure on the gauge when started, and the pressure rises slower than with the Purolators I use.

Sounds like an ADBV not working properly. This is a perfect example of a problem that cannot be easily noticed. Just because a filter doesn't explode, doesn't mean it's working properly.

-T
 
I love the term "never had a problem"
I hear it all the time. usually goes along with "I can get two years of use between engine rebuilds" or something of that nature. How many people can say they use fram filters and have 500,000 km on their engines?
 
quote:

Originally posted by harper:
I have to add that many people have gone many miles with FRAM on their car and nothing happens. My buddy uses Fram and dino and 5-7k OCI on both his VW Golf's (1998,2000) and all still seem well after 100,000 miles. I posted a while ago "Do you actually know any one with an actual FRAM failure?". I did not seem to find many responses indicating failures.

The point is not whether FRAM's are 'failing', but are they doing thier intended job? almost any motor made nowadays can go 100k with NO oil filter. But can you get more total miles from an engine equipped with a FRAM than one with say, a Supertech or Purolater or Wix, Ect.?
 
I'm with the rest of the he-man-Fram-haters club here. If a Fram filter was leaking internally, how would anyone know?

And, most of us know that most vehicles would be fine with no filter and 3,000 mile drain intervals.

But for my vehicle and intervals up-to-and-exceeding 4,500 miles, I'll stick with a high quality filter like Hastings and/or Wix.
smile.gif


--- Bror Jace
 
Well, the big question, at least for me, is whether Fram is a good value for the money. With the SuperTech's and STP's and Purolator Premium's priced cheaper, and AC Delco's priced about the same, it just doesn't look like a very good deal.

I've used Fram's on engines that made it to 100k...but never to 200k or more. Also, I've seen two Fram's fail, one on a 2.5 Dodge Spirt at 85k and one on a Mazda Protege at 215k. For me, I trust the Champion labs filters a heck of a lot more, and that's after having a SuperTech with a bad ADBV a couple months ago.
 
I have looked at the red filters sold at Advance autoparts. The baseplate on these filters looks identical to the Ford Motorcraft filters.

Does Purolator make those filters? The link at the beginning of this thread says that they are.

I am going to try them on a few vehicles to see how they do.

But are they made by purolator?
 
When did Fram started cutting corners? I used Fram and Castrol GTX from early 80's til late 90's based on word of mouth. Then about 4 years ago I began hearing some not so nice thing about Fram.
 
Do a search on Fram in the last 10 days. I recently saw something, maybe an email from Fram, saying they had been using cardboard end caps for a long time, 30-40 years. I still say, the lack of much between them is a bigger problem than the cardboard endcaps.
 
Fram has used cardboard end caps for quite a while, but they did use a different ADBV at one point.

-T
 
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