New factory S2000 shortblock, break-in oil

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I recently completed an engine build using a new OEM F22C shortblock for my 2002 Honda S2000. The head is a refreshed unit from the old F20C.

From what I gather, I should be using a conventional (non-synthetic) oil for break-in. I am considering using Driven BR30 as well.

The cylinder bores are FRM lined, do I need to be looking for a specific additive to help with run-in?
 
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Not knowing the particulars on the engine what would be the problem with running a syn oil for the first oil change?
 

RacingNurse

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Not knowing the particulars on the engine what would be the problem with running a syn oil for the first oil change?

From what I read most synthetics have friction modifiers that would inhibit the “wear-in” of parts.

Here are some pics of the new factory short block.
 

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MolaKule

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I recently completed an engine build using a new OEM F22C shortblock for my 2002 Honda S2000. The head is a refreshed unit from the old F20C.

From what I gather, I should be using a conventional (non-synthetic) oil for break-in. I am considering using Driven BR30 as well.

The cylinder bores are FRM lined, do I need to be looking for a specific additive to help with run-in?
Or the Amsoil Break-In oil:

 
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On a modern engine with lined cylinder walls do you really need a 30W break in oil? I thought these were mainly for old cars.

I would be leaning more towards the conventional oil route. However I have no experience rebuilding engines
 
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Fellow S2K owner here.

I've often thought about what I would do if I bought a spoon engine (didn't know factory blocks were still obtainable?)

I think I'd use amsoil break-in oil (or similar) and drive it like I stole it (subject to a gradual warm up with varied revs and loads).

Change the oil within 50 miles with more break-in oil and go again for 100 miles. I'd say you could use any oil you like after that.

I don't think you will need any additives - Good luck!
 
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Engineers usually suggest that you break-in an engine by not being too easy nor too hard. Either method has the potential to cause problems.
 
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Forget the specific break in oil and just use regular quality oil.
I used the Joe Gibbs stuff breaking in an engine on the Dyno.
I think it actually caused wear and didn't do the bearings any favors.
 
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Driven BR30 or Amsoil Break-In SAE 30.

New rings, pistons, valvetrain, etc... requires a break-in, contrary to what some here might think. You can go without, but you'll have better leakdown numbers, more power, and less blow-by using an actual break-in oil and following a break-in procedure. It's also very low cost compared to the price of the engine, and something the engine should be worthy of after going through the effort of rebuilding it.

BR30 contains ~2500 ppm ZDDP that's all branched chained secondary alkyl ZDDP with minimal detergents (<400 ppm Ca), no friction modifiers, minimal VII, and group II conventional base oil.

The type of ZDDP used is more reactive than the typical blended ZDDP in common oils, particularly at lower temperatures. That's important for the first few minutes after initial startup when the oil is still cold. You want a thick anti-wear film established as fast as possible to minimize wear through the break-in. That's what break-in oils are designed to do. The low detergent content also promotes better ZDDP reactivity.

The conventional base oil is used because of its additive response. The additives are more reactive, at lower temperatures, in the lower base oil groups. This helps promote fast ZDDP activation to minimize wear. Group III synthetic base oil is fine as it has as good (sometimes better) additive response as group II conventional. You just don't want group IV PAO synthetics as they are less polar thus weaker additive response.

For the break-in procedure, heat cycling is key. Holding at 2000 rpm for 15-20 minutes on first startup helps ensure good oil flow and splash throughout the engine and gets more heat in the engine faster. Afterwards, shut it down to cool all the way back down to ambient temp. After that, I start it back up, and start making WOT pulls with tuning adjustments, ensuring it gets up to 200+°F oil and coolant temp, and periodically shutting it down to heat cycle.

Like I said, you can go with any oil you want and not do a break-in period, but what would you rather have? A new engine with 5-8% leakdown or one with 2%? One with 3-5 cfm blow-by or one with <2 cfm?
 
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RacingNurse

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Fellow S2K owner here.

I've often thought about what I would do if I bought a spoon engine (didn't know factory blocks were still obtainable?)

I think I'd use amsoil break-in oil (or similar) and drive it like I stole it (subject to a gradual warm up with varied revs and loads).

Change the oil within 50 miles with more break-in oil and go again for 100 miles. I'd say you could use any oil you like after that.

I don't think you will need any additives - Good luck!

Yeah I got lucky, ICB motorsports had this in stock. This is engine #4 in 2 years. Past 3 was just lots of bad luck.
 

RacingNurse

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@RacingNurse, did it come with an owners manual? If not I would contact the manufacturer just for warranty concerns and see what they recommend.

@Duffyjr this shortblock was purchased from a 3rd party vendor and I am doing all the work myself. So no warranty from Honda.

I did place a call to corporate Honda this morning. They told me to ask a dealership for what oil to use. Not very helpful.

Only break in instructions from owners manual is the following.
 

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@Duffyjr this shortblock was purchased from a 3rd party vendor and I am doing all the work myself. So no warranty from Honda.

I did place a call to corporate Honda this morning. They told me to ask a dealership for what oil to use. Not very helpful.

Only break in instructions from owners manual is the following.
I would contact the 3rd party vendor just to see what they had to say.

The only reason I ever used conventional when breaking in an engine was cost, back then there was a bigger price difference between conventional and synthetic and since the OC's were shorter it cost less.
 

RacingNurse

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I would contact the 3rd party vendor just to see what they had to say.

The only reason I ever used conventional when breaking in an engine was cost, back then there was a bigger price difference between conventional and synthetic and since the OC's were shorter it cost less.

Yeah I doubt I'll get a meaningful response. But I did send them an email
Sorry to hear - I'm sure this one will work out.

If it helps - I found out mine was a dealer demonstrator vehicle. Which means it likely was ran hard right from the start.

Doesn't burn a drop of oil!

Thanks, Yeah I'm hopeful that this latest engine will give me no problems. Despite all the headaches. S2K holds a special place in my heart.




After a few hours of rabbit hole diving, I ordered some Amsoil break-in oil (SAE 30).

Is it likely not needed? Probably. I'm pretty sure I could have gone conventional from the store.

Previously I was running Motul 300v 5w30 in my old engines.
Engine #1 ran 2 track days with the thrust washer in the oil pan. (This was original engine, thought it was a slipping clutch at first.)
Engine #2 ran a couple track days even with the thrust washer installed backwards. (This engine was purchased from a dismantler, turned out to be a incorrectly rebuilt engine)

Plan for this engine is, break-in oil until warmed up to operating temp.
Replace break-in oil and OEM filter with more break-in oil and new OEM filter.

Then change out at 500 miles.

Debating if I should do 1 more break-in oil cycle for another 500 or switch straight to motul 300v.

Again, probably overthinking it but that's the plan.
 
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I don't know about Amsoil's break-in oil as they don't list the CCS.

Driven BR30 is a 5W-30. CCS = 6,160 @ -30°C, KV100 = 10.81, KV40 = 63.44
 
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They don't list the CCS or MRV so we don't have a winter rating. Judging by the 107 VI though, it's almost certainly a straight 30 grade.
 
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