New construction, already HVAC troubles

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Canuck - moved to —> California —> Texas —> ???
With the heating season fast approaching I decided to test the heat pump. Keep in mind this is brand new construction and we moved in May and AC has been working flawlessly.

I turned on the heat and the outside unit kicked on, but I noticed it’s blowing warm air instead of cold. The low pressure suction line is also cold, should be hot, that much I know. I always had gas furnace for heat before this.

My initial instinct was to contact the builder warranty, but decided to give it some troubleshooting to familiarize myself with the system at the very least.

Checked voltages at the unit, both the Y and O terminals are energized. In heat mode, only Y terminals should be. Playing with the thermostats (nest) didn’t help, everything there is configured correctly.

I removed the O wire from the terminal and we had heat. I was on the right track.

I turned to the zone controller next and noticed that no matter if I called for heat or cooling, the cooling LED was always on.
Found the manual for it and there is a programming section. Entered the programming mode and of course it’s programmed for conventional heating/cooling, not the heat pump mode.
Corrected the mode and now the heating LED was illuminated when heat was called, great!


IMG_5494.webp




But we’re not done yet. I was still getting cold air out the vents. Ugh, I’m almost ready to give up, but not just yet.
I start measuring the voltages on the zone controller. The right side connects to the thermostats and the left side to the air handler. I notice that on the thermostat side the O terminals have 0V when heat is called, which is how it’s supposed to be. But on the left side the O is always energized, even if the system is on standby.

This should’ve been a clue, but I’m no HVAC guy and I have no reference point.

So now I’m reading the air handler manual and in it I find that for heat pumps the O and R terminal jumper should be removed. I look inside, and behold, the jumper is there.😤

I removed the jumper and the O terminal is no longer energized all the time and my heat pump is putting out heat finally.

Holy crap, the trades have gone downhill for sure. And what’s even more troubling is that if more people have it installed this way, their emergency electric strips will be used all the time, resulting in huge electric bills!


IMG_5493.webp
 
Yeah that's pretty bad. I had to tweak the blower speed to get the proper delta Ts after a new furnace install a few years ago but I also don't expect them to go register to register measuring output temp either. In your case that is a disappointing sign for the install.
 
Did the HVAC installer contractor leave a sticker (or something) so that you could identify them? If so, I would leave a review on them on many review sites.

Also, you should have tested this yourself before you closed on the house.
 
Did the HVAC installer contractor leave a sticker (or something) so that you could identify them? If so, I would leave a review on them on many review sites.

Also, you should have tested this yourself before you closed on the house.
True, I should have, however I’m not sure how they programmed the Honeywell thermostats that I changed to Nests. If they set them to also use the electric heat strips, I would have no way of knowing this.
 
Nice job of troubleshooting. Did not know Aprilaire made heat pumps. They make high quality dehumidifiers.

A lot of new houses around here get builder grade Goodman.

We live in DE and have two Trane heat pumps. We have a service contract for $350 give or take. They come 2x a year and do some cleaning of the coil area along with the condensate lines. And replace filters. And check capacitors. But the most important reason is you are then their customer and when It breaks (it will) you will be near top of the list not added to the bottom. That's important when it's 95F outside and inside or 35F outside and inside.
 
If the strips are auxillary heat (ie. heat pump), and not the primary heat, then the outdoor unit can also be on.
Yes, both can be on at the same time if the outside temp is not too low, which of course in May it wasn’t.

If my case is not an outlier, which, given that the controls were not set up for heat pumps, may be true. Then many people will be wasting electricity as their heat pumps will not be working and only the auxiliary heat will.
 
Yes, both can be on at the same time if the outside temp is not too low, which of course in May it wasn’t.

Beyond outside temps, if you set the t-stat up or down more than a few degrees (2 in many cases), the system can interpret it as if it can't keep up and it'll kick in the aux to bring to the set temp faster.

If my case is not an outlier, which, given that the controls were not set up for heat pumps, may be true. Then many people will be wasting electricity as their heat pumps will not be working and only the auxiliary heat will.

IMO, new home installs can really be lacking. Much like people have pre-drywall inspections for general construction stuff, you really need one for HVAC too, by an HVAC and not a general inspector. You really want to catch things like undersized ducting and/or units before you take ownership.
 
I've found a lot of techs (not just in the HVAC field) are great with the physical install, but when it comes to any kind of programming or configuring at the commissioning stage they are lost. Others love to bury their faces in install/service manuals and can tell you everything technical that you would ever want to know.
 
I've found a lot of techs (not just in the HVAC field) are great with the physical install, but when it comes to any kind of programming or configuring at the commissioning stage they are lost. Others love to bury their faces in install/service manuals and can tell you everything technical that you would ever want to know.
I am thinking part of it is how much time they allow the tech to do some learning. As opposed to get it running and move onto the next job.
 
I am thinking part of it is how much time they allow the tech to do some learning. As opposed to get it running and move onto the next job.

In my experience, the techs that are up on all details are self learners. They go online, download the manuals and experiment.
 
In my experience, the techs that are up on all details are self learners. They go online, download the manuals and experiment.
2x, the good guys review monthly technical bulletin updates. There can be a lot of them on new models and on odd issues that pop up in the field with units in service for a while. Just going through that now with a boiler at my snowmobile clubs barn. Erratic pilot outage, turns out there is a pilot assy. update from the manufacture for that problem that I researched on their site that should have been done years ago. One reason I was a lead and mentor tech. on my retired from job.
I've got the parts on order now.
 
Update to this issue as we have had some cold temps lately.
The heat pump is working correctly and keeps up with the demand no problem. The aux heat hasn’t kicked in at all as evidenced by the Nest thermostat history. Aux heat would be dark orange in the graphs and it’s not there. I’m happy.🥳



IMG_5621.webp
 
With the heating season fast approaching I decided to test the heat pump. Keep in mind this is brand new construction and we moved in May and AC has been working flawlessly.

I turned on the heat and the outside unit kicked on, but I noticed it’s blowing warm air instead of cold. The low pressure suction line is also cold, should be hot, that much I know. I always had gas furnace for heat before this.

My initial instinct was to contact the builder warranty, but decided to give it some troubleshooting to familiarize myself with the system at the very least.

Checked voltages at the unit, both the Y and O terminals are energized. In heat mode, only Y terminals should be. Playing with the thermostats (nest) didn’t help, everything there is configured correctly.

I removed the O wire from the terminal and we had heat. I was on the right track.

I turned to the zone controller next and noticed that no matter if I called for heat or cooling, the cooling LED was always on.
Found the manual for it and there is a programming section. Entered the programming mode and of course it’s programmed for conventional heating/cooling, not the heat pump mode.
Corrected the mode and now the heating LED was illuminated when heat was called, great!


View attachment 307974



But we’re not done yet. I was still getting cold air out the vents. Ugh, I’m almost ready to give up, but not just yet.
I start measuring the voltages on the zone controller. The right side connects to the thermostats and the left side to the air handler. I notice that on the thermostat side the O terminals have 0V when heat is called, which is how it’s supposed to be. But on the left side the O is always energized, even if the system is on standby.

This should’ve been a clue, but I’m no HVAC guy and I have no reference point.

So now I’m reading the air handler manual and in it I find that for heat pumps the O and R terminal jumper should be removed. I look inside, and behold, the jumper is there.😤

I removed the jumper and the O terminal is no longer energized all the time and my heat pump is putting out heat finally.

Holy crap, the trades have gone downhill for sure. And what’s even more troubling is that if more people have it installed this way, their emergency electric strips will be used all the time, resulting in huge electric bills!


View attachment 307998
Awesome. When I worked maintenance we'd install new thermostats but had to make sure that it was setup correctly as it had an option for heat pump or conventional furnaces.
 
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