OK, I did a search here and could not get a definite answer to this question. I dumped the factory fill today at 1026 miles and put in Pennzoil Synthetic 10W30 (for summer) with a Purolator Premium Plus filter. I wanted to use synthetic because the car only holds 3.6 qt. with a filter change and wanted to help against thermal breakdown and heat control with such a small amount of oil. Car in question is a '04 Kia Rio. Am I correct in assuming it was OK to put in synthetic at this point? I read here most of the break-in occurs in the first 1000 miles. The car seems to run smoother. Also, I think I remember reading the Pennzoil Synthetic was not a true synthetic?? Another question...is a Group III oil OK to use?? Thanks for your patience...so many questions.
New car 1st oil change...OK for Synthetic??
- Thread starter rockhopper
- Start date
- Status
You can run synthetic from day one. Visit the Mobil 1 Website for confirmation. [Why Synthetics] + [Myths About Synthetics] first myth.
Large numbers of new cars are shipped with synthetic.
I usually dont because I do shorter change intervals during break-in. ie at least go by severe service schedule. This means I am not really seeing much gain from using synthetic.
Gene
PS 3.6 QT isnt a small capacity for a 1.6L engine. Compare this to a 8.0L V10 with only 7 QT capacity. Heck you even have a higher capacity per Liter than some 5.9L Cummins Diesels.
1.OL / 2.6 = 2.6 QT per L
1.6L / 3.6 = 2.25
2.0L / 4.0 = 2.0
5.9L / 11.0 = 1.85
8.0L / 7.0 = 0.875
[ July 11, 2004, 05:55 PM: Message edited by: Gene K ]
Large numbers of new cars are shipped with synthetic.
I usually dont because I do shorter change intervals during break-in. ie at least go by severe service schedule. This means I am not really seeing much gain from using synthetic.
Gene
PS 3.6 QT isnt a small capacity for a 1.6L engine. Compare this to a 8.0L V10 with only 7 QT capacity. Heck you even have a higher capacity per Liter than some 5.9L Cummins Diesels.
1.OL / 2.6 = 2.6 QT per L
1.6L / 3.6 = 2.25
2.0L / 4.0 = 2.0
5.9L / 11.0 = 1.85
8.0L / 7.0 = 0.875
[ July 11, 2004, 05:55 PM: Message edited by: Gene K ]
For future reference, if you're running a Purolator 14459-type filter on your Rio's engine, the Purolator 14619-type is an alternative, larger upgrade if you have room for it (about the same physical size as a PH-16, but with the same 20mm and threaded exit port, identical gasket size, flow rate, and bypass pressure of the 14459). Should let you run 1/3 quart more oil without overfilling.
Sure is. Run that all day and night.
As far as when to change, I'm sure there are dozens of answers and results to boot...
Just like there are dozens of BREAK-in-methods too.
cheers
The Purolator filter number I'm running is 14612. I checked both the website and the catalog at the store. Drain intervals I have used in the past are between 3 and 5K miles. This will be the first car I have had that will run with synthetic. Today I noticed that the temp gauge was below the middle hash mark, where it used to be right on that mark. Already feeling and seeing benifits.
Your engine is running cooler because it has finished its initial breaking in - less friction now than when brand new. ("Breaking in" is just a traditional term for controlled wear.) My Sonata V6 behaved the same way after about 1,000 miles, and it's never seen anything other than conventional 10W-30 oil. Good conventional, but conventional nevertheless. If your Rio used some oil during the 1st thousand miles (mine went down about 1/4 quart), expect oil use to drop to near zero over the course of 3,000 miles from now on. (Now I'm gonna hafta go over to Pep Boys tomorrow to check out the 14612. I was under the impression that current KIAs use the same oil filters as their corporate Hyundai stablemates.)
- Status
