new briggs power washer

[smeltjr]

got a power washer with a briggs 4 hp. came with a bottle of straight 30w which is recommended oil. says 10w30 ok bit will burn more. use this stuff or some of the remaining supply of shaeffers 10w30 i've got?

 

[segfault]

Unless you have some other use for the Briggs oil, I would use it instead of wasting it. When you run out, use Schaeffer's. I think the Briggs break-in instructions say to change the oil after 50 hours.

The washer may not have been pre-filled with oil, be sure there is oil in it before you fire it up!

 

[penzdude]

i concur w/segfault. use the 30 wt that came with the unit for break in. they usualy don't have the oil in the motors is correct! don't start! lol. then, i would switch to the 10-30 you have around. i don't think that using a good 10-30 would cause your machine to consume more oil than a hd 30 once it was broken in properly. you might, if concerned, try one of the "high milage" 10w30's as they are on the thicker side compared to regular 10-30's. also, i see you live in chicago, and you might find yourself using the washer on some colder mornings etc..the 10-30 should "sling" farther and faster. i wouldn't wait 50 hrs to change the oil either. that's when you are gonna get the most shavings and stuff out of the motor. change it after about the first 10 hrs of use. good luck!!!!

 

[theguru]

If you check the B&s website I think you'll find that unless you stick to the 30w oil then you will be better with a synthetic oil (5w30 or 10w30). Mineral oils tend to burn more and are not good at high ambient temps. Considering that you will probably only use fairly small amount of oil cost isn't much of a concern.

[ May 18, 2003, 01:18 AM: Message edited by: theguru ]

 

[Bror Jace]

Yep, I'd use the factory oil and then flush it after a 10-12 hour run. Can't hurt.

My guess is they are spec'ing out a 30 straight weight for shear stability. That's why they suggest synthetic multi-grades as alternatives.

Although, I don't think there's THAT much difference between a Group III synthetic and a good Group II or II+ like Pennzoil or Chevron. I think that advice was more appropriate a decade or more ago. Base oils have improved so much in the past several years.

I run Schaeffer 15W40 synthetic blend with moly in all my lawn & garden power equipment. Most are air cooled 'cept my twin-cylinder 18hp Honda Tractor.

--- Bror Jace