New Battery #2 this Winter

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The AAP Gold in the Accord was at 51 months. Last weekend (somewhat cold) would not turn using the remote start and struggled to start the vehicle with the key. It was tested 3x within the last couple of months: once @ a dealer that claimed it was bad, and I had it checked 2x at two different part stores that declared it as good.

Given the fact that weather here is supposed to go below zero, and that fact that this battery leaks at a rate that would make an Exide jealous, I decided it was about time. I wanted an East Penn, and there are very few options for such in this area. The farm store where I purchased the new battery for the Ranger last month did not offer a group 35 (converted the car from a 51 after the first Winter with it.) So, that meant that NAPA really became the only option, unless I wanted to drive to NE Ohio. Bought a "Legend Extreme" on sale (running a Visa GC rebate with $10. on the "Legend" and $20. on the "Extreme.") In addition, the local bank that handles our HSA sent me a $10. Gift Card for my birthday last year, good at a NAPA location about 15 miles from the house. The "Extreme" with a better warranty and slightly more CCA's ended out at the same price as the" Legend" @ $109.97 plus tax.

Costco would have been my second stop if I could not have obtained a decent price at NAPA. Hope I'm done for awhile, although the AAP Gold in the Mustang will be going on 8 years this spring. Guess that speaks to the benefits of having a C-TEK on it all winter.
 
I hope the new battery works well for you.
Diagnosing a failing battery seems to be a hit a miss experience that many have had. Too many shops and parts stores rely on load testers, which are not fool proof. I had that problem back in November. I had already determined that my wife's car needed a new battery. I charged it overnight so she could take it to the KIA dealership for a new battery. The dummies at the dealership decided to do all of the recalls. They had to charge the battery to do the ECU update. DUH! They also load tested the battery and declared it good. I still ended up having to buy a new battery, a Motorcraft BXT-124R. Get this, I went to do an oil change and the dealership clowns had torqued down the drain plug so tight, I had to take it back to them. Their oil change was part of the Theta II recall. Junk like that is why I do my own oil changes.
 
OP, I see your last sentence. Guess that speaks to the benefits of having a C-TEK on it all winter.

I just bought my first Smart Battery Charger, It's a NOCO G3500
I'm hoping it will prolong the life of the Battery and help the Alternator live an easy life.
 
Originally Posted by Patrick0525
@Tdbo which ctek did you buy? Does it go into step 8 pulse mode charging after 10 days?


This is the unit I have:

https://www.amazon.com/CTEK-56-158-Automatic-Battery-Charger/dp/B000FQBWCY/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1548547453&sr=1-7&keywords=battery+charger&refinements=p_89%3ACTEK

I lost the factory battery in the Mustang after I accidentally left the door ajar enough that the battery totally discharged during its winter storage. I got about 2 months out of the battery after recharging it. Bought the unit that I have not knowing a lot about it.
However, I have been happy with it and would buy it again.

The NOCO 3500 that I also have......not so much.
 
Originally Posted by MasterSolenoid
OP, I see your last sentence. Guess that speaks to the benefits of having a C-TEK on it all winter.

I just bought my first Smart Battery Charger, It's a NOCO G3500
I'm hoping it will prolong the life of the Battery and help the Alternator live an easy life.


It will do the job (as you can see in a previous post, I also have a 3500.)
I prefer the C-TEK. IMO, it is just an ergonomically easier unit to use.
 
there's no magic in there in my experience. The only true test available to me is the CCA, volts don't mean much if the CCA is dodgy

you loose substantial capacity with dropping temp.Chargers are good but cannot recover CCA!
 
Originally Posted by bonjo
there's no magic in there in my experience. The only true test available to me is the CCA, volts don't mean much if the CCA is dodgy

you loose substantial capacity with dropping temp.Chargers are good but cannot recover CCA!





Not sure what you mean by "the only true test available to me". Do you mean you only believe a test from a Midtronics type of tester or you only have that type of tester?

The absolute best test is to charge a battery with AC charger then read the voltage at 1/2 CCA load for 15 seconds. But the battery needs to be fully charged. If you pop into Autozone or Walmart for a test they do not want to have to charge battery then test. So the Midtronics type of tester was developed that in most cases can test a battery even if not fully charged.
 
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