Need wheel alignment specs

[Jeff999]

I made a camber tool that consists of two bolts attached to a metal bar to which is attached a digital level gauge.

These are the angle measurements I got on all four wheels on my 2010 Yaris two door hatchback:
front driver side=88.25 degrees, front passenger side=87.39, rear driver side=89.17, rear passenger side=86.82. So, for example, the front driver side camber would be:90 degrees-88.25=1.75 positive camber I believe. The tool displays zero degrees when laid on a flat surface.

What are the factory camber specification ranges in degrees or inches for the front and rear wheels?

I adjusted the toe alignment on this car using a string method. I set the front wheels toed out 1/16" on each wheel for a total 1/8" toe out. One sixteenth toe out per wheel is typically recommended for front wheel drive vehicles. What is the factory toe specification range in inches for a 2010 Yaris two door hatchback?

I found this table of alignment specs for my Yaris, but I'm not sure how to read it. https://www.autozone.com/repairguide...96b43f81b3d92d

So Ideally the front wheels should be perfectly straight and either .08" toed in or toed out at the most, correct?

Does the table say that the camber for the front wheels should be -.42" and for the rear wheels .12" + or - .08"?

 

[DuckRyder]

Your link doesn't work and I can't find it by searching the site (it seems like you might have to be a "member")

Typically alignment for caster and camber is specified as degrees and toe in inches or mm, though degrees is also available. Back when I did it pretty much no one specified toe in anything but inches in the US.

Camber specs are usually negative (tire in at the top).

IME, shoot for the preferred and never more than .5 degree cross camber or caster. (and even that might be too much).

 

[ARCOgraphite]

You have to take into account spring sag, rim irregularities etc.

A man after my own heart, I've have not had a good alignment in ages, so I took to the wax string method also,
but I projected each wheel steering angle forward about 10 feet

How was you wear pattern before? I found after 3 years I couldn't get my yaris to steer well regardless of alignment
so either LCA bushings went mushy or cracked or the struts went.

You wont don't know how the wheels will align and run dynamically with normal bushing play, so the initial alignment is just a start.
Then you read the tires each week for feathering, and go by how it steers with each adjustment.

Is it squirrely now with that much toe out? 0.13" is too much toe out.

It should be more stable with a tiny bit of toe in, but you will likely see outer edge tire wear
due to crown counter steer. Do you drive on even moderately crowned roads?

Can you even adjust camber?

I dont recall if there is an eccentric bolt on the strut tube clamp.

I wouldn't worry about measuring camber, you can eyeball that. Basically +/- 0.5deg on most any FWD car up front.
I recall there rear was a twist beam axle. so nothing to be done there.

Was there an initial concern? Or just diving into it for new rubber or ??
Remember tire inflation had to be in a sweet spot also.


found this on a web image search:

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted by Jeff999
I made a camber tool that consists of two bolts attached to a metal bar to which is attached a digital level gauge.


Rears usually have too much neg. camber and heavy too-in to provide HS stability and understeer.. about 1.5 > 2 deg.

Is the 2010 YARIS of YOURS IRS ?

Wow! dyslexia inducing!

 

[HangFire]

Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted by Jeff999
I made a camber tool that consists of two bolts attached to a metal bar to which is attached a digital level gauge.


Rears usually have too much neg. camber and heavy too-in to provide HS stability and understeer.. about 1.5 > 2 deg.

Is the 2010 YARIS of YOURS IRS ?

Wow! dyslexia inducing!

Not really an IRS. It's a beam axle located with 2 trailing arms, under two coils springs and shocks.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted by HangFire
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted by Jeff999
I made a camber tool that consists of two bolts attached to a metal bar to which is attached a digital level gauge.


Rears usually have too much neg. camber and heavy too-in to provide HS stability and understeer.. about 1.5 > 2 deg.

Is the 2010 YARIS of YOURS IRS ?

Wow! dyslexia inducing!

Not really an IRS. It's a beam axle located with 2 trailing arms, under two coils springs and shocks.

As soon as you put an anti-roll bar on anything its no longer an IRS,

Twist beams can be fine if implemented correctly.

You just cant tweek camber gain and toe control like you can with an ULCA IRS.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Where did the op go ?

hit and run?

 

[Jeff999]

I measured my wheel alignment as a maintenance procedure but mostly because my tires are wearing heavily on the outside edges.

These are the spec ranges that I have gathered from doing some more searching including from this thread:
Front toe=.1" to .02", rear toe=-.02" to .15", front camber= .58 to -.92 degrees, rear camber= -.2 to -1.7 degrees.

Therefore the 1/16" toe out that I set for each front wheel is in the spec range. The passenger side wheel was toed in a little and the driver's side wheel was straight before I adjusted them. I did not record the toe measurements for the rear wheels, and I don't remember them.

These are the camber measurements I got:Front driver's side=1.75 degrees, FP=2.6 degrees, RD=.85 degrees, and RP=.20 degrees. So the camber for each of the front wheels is way too positive, and the rear wheels are positive when they should be negative but are not as out of spec as the front wheels.

The rear suspension is fixed. The Yaris Factory Repair Manual for my car says that if the camber for the rear wheels is not within the spec range to inspect suspension parts and replace them if necessary. Are the current rear camber settings out of spec enough to cause uneven tire wear?

I would like to install camber adjusting bolts so I can adjust the camber myself. Rockauto sells many brands of camber bolts for my car. Which brand is best?

I monitor tire pressure regularly and keep all tires filled to factory spec. I also rotate my tires according to the factory recommended interval. My car does not drive squirrely and drives very straight.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Sorry I dont trust your camber measurements.

Dd you average 5 measurement each wheel rotating the tire each measurement?

then throw out 2 outliers average 3 data points.

You know what is negative and positive

How do they Look? Negative or Positive
_________________

Your toe-out is not in spec it's too much.

at .125" total OUT.

allowed per above is 0.9MM (0.04") total ( I think that is too conservative, but 1/16" total OUT might be OK. if not highway driven

Why dont you go to a Toyota dealer they have a free drive through laser alignment check

Its not perfect, but it will give an idea if you are off base.


Also what is your spring sag? Is chassis height at 4 corners in spec?

good luck