Need to replace pads too or just rotors?

[mechanicx]

I agree with everything you said except the part about putting oil on the lug nuts as that may lead to over torguing the lug nuts. That's almost universally recommended against by manufacturers. And putting lubricant at the hub and rotor interface is not recommended by most, as that could possibly induce rotor run out. But was recommended by at least one. I'm thinking Ford. But heck even manufacturers can't be recommencations can't be taken as gospel. Many of them don't recommend brake fluid change as a maintenance item.

 

[mechanicx]

Originally Posted By: buickman50401
A mechanic buddy of mine has told me that with a lot of cars anymore the rotors have to be turned even when brand new. I can't recall which particular model of Caddy it was but that every time they do a brake job on them they have to turn the rotors using the "fancy" brake lathes that can turn them while still on the car.

Doesn't matter what brand of rotor from the cheapest to the high end. The runout exists regardless and it isn't necessarily the the rotors "fault". Its a case of matching the rotor to the car on certain models of cars.


Yeah, and being a car model specific problem with various drivers and different pad and rotor brands, and that on the car brake turning fixes the issue, you have to figure there is an issue of hub lateral run out. I think GM for awhile had a run of some hub assemblies that weren't holding run out low enough.

 

[Ducati996]

I agree with everything you said except the part about putting oil on the lug nuts as that may lead to over torguing the lug nuts. That's almost universally recommended against by manufacturers. And putting lubricant at the hub and rotor interface is not recommended by most, as that could possibly induce rotor run out. But was recommended by at least one. I'm thinking Ford. But heck even manufacturers can't be recommendations can't be taken as gospel. Many of them don't recommend brake fluid change as a maintenance item.

There is rarely a unanimous agreement on how to perform any task.
There are many factors that determine how a task should be performed. One is intended use and environment.
Here in the North East (rust belt) wheels and lug nuts can become stuck to the point that heat & a sledge hammer must be used to remove lug nuts and free a tire rim from the hub, not a situation you want if you need to change a tire on the side of the road.
Dry corroded wheel nuts also will not torque properly and will actually be loose.
On the other hand clean lubricated wheel nuts torqued to specifications will be over tightened which can damage alloy wheels. So you need to compensate by torquing to a lower value.

As for applying lubricant between the hub & rotor interface;
The purpose is to prevent corrosion and sticking, it will not induce rotor run out but excessive amounts on non vented rotors & drums could get on the friction surfaces.
Living in the rust belt as a repair shop and keeping my vehicles for 7 to 22 years I know what works and doesn’t.

Vehicles in the west need none of these steps to keep them happy.
This is my experience from maintaining my vehicles and local customers.