Need some counseling

[Cujet]

BMW has a wonderful program of extended drain intervals. But I don't think the BITOG crew should go with it.

Oh, and Toyota knows exactly how to sell you another one!

Change your oil, use a quality synthetic.

That bottom pic is a 4 runner! Extended drain intervals.

Quite simply, by 1000 miles, your engine is fully broken in. Change your oil.

 

[raytseng]

what does sludged engines from not changing oil for 50,000milrs have to do with wear particles from the ff?

if you're jumping on the fear train at least post the right scary pictues of some scored bearings or something

 

[Merkava_4]

I 'd drain the oil as soon as I got it home from the dealer.
I'd probably want to get rid of the 20 weight anyway.
Next drain after that would probably be around 2700 miles.

 

[mvent]

Thanks for all the opinions, going to run FF to about 2500 miles, then go with 7500 intervals with 0-20 synthetic.

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: mvent
Thanks for all the opinions, going to run FF to about 2500 miles, then go with 7500 intervals with 0-20 synthetic.


That tells me you're either leasing the car, or don't plan on keeping it for more than 5 years.

 

[userfriendly]

Merkava;
I logged on to respond to your last post, but you beat me to it.
You are just a little more frank instead of tactful in your writing style than others.
Like ya said last week; cars are cheap and synthetic oil is expensive.

 

[Yup]

Originally Posted By: Cujet
BMW has a wonderful program of extended drain intervals. But I don't think the BITOG crew should go with it.

Oh, and Toyota knows exactly how to sell you another one!

Change your oil, use a quality synthetic.

That bottom pic is a 4 runner! Extended drain intervals.

Quite simply, by 1000 miles, your engine is fully broken in. Change your oil.


Are these pictures from "normal recommended intervals" or some random pics someone claims are recommended intervals? Were they using full synthetic Euro oil? Lots of questions about an engine that bad unrelated to oil change intervals.

 

[mvent]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: mvent
Thanks for all the opinions, going to run FF to about 2500 miles, then go with 7500 intervals with 0-20 synthetic.


That tells me you're either leasing the car, or don't plan on keeping it for more than 5 years.


Not leasing, and hope to keep it more than 5 years but who knows

 

[BrocLuno]

There are a few things to consider. FF MAY be additive'ized...

Machining metals (bits and pieces) can damage the oil pump by scoring the end plates...

To get to the filter, the oil has to go through the pump ...

The first thing you should do with any new engine (MFG or rebuilt) is to add a magnetic drain plug. That way you can actually see what comes out of it at first change. You can install one w/o losing much oil if you are prepared. Just hold you thumb over the hole when you pull the OEM plug, and insert your replacement. You might loose a few cups if you're quick.

While you're at it, install a new factory oil filter exactly like the one that came on it. Cut the old one apart. If you do not see shiny bits, you have a good clean motor, or all the bits are still in the sump... The magnet will get steel and iron. Aluminum and plastic bits are less of a problem ...

This is just reasonable prudence. You'all paid (or are paying) $40K or something. Why on earth take a chance with that big of an investment? It might make it through warranty and break 5,000 miles later due to something that happened early on... Then it's your wallet that takes the hit. All for the cost of a magnetic drain plug (~$12), a filter (~$10) and maybe two quarts of oil (~$10). So for less than a meal out with your wife, you can have peace of mind

If it all looks good as you go through this, sure do what Toyota says and run it down to 15%. Modern oils can go a long way. If anything looks off while you go through this, do what you planned - change early with knowledge of why ...

 

[Carguy21]

Here in the world of the car geeks (BITOG crew), an oil change with a top quality synthetic as soon as you get home driving your brand new car is almost a rule, but how many people with minimum to no knowledge about engines, change the oil on the first hundreds of miles with a new car? I don't think so many, most follow the OCI stablished on the OM and sleep good at night.

 

[Merkava_4]

On a brand new 2016 4Runner, I'd run a 5W-30 synthetic blend to 3000 miles and get a UOA to determine if I could go further on the next OCI. Baby steps.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: Cujet
BMW has a wonderful program of extended drain intervals. But I don't think the BITOG crew should go with it.

Now you did it. Merk threw up all over his keyboard.

 

[Merkava_4]

It never ceases to amaze me how people go out and buy a brand new car and then never change the oil.

 

[Ifixyawata]

One thing I've learned on BITOG:

If you ever ask a question that ends in 'should I just change it now?' Regardless of the circumstances, there will always be a 'GET THAT OUT OF THERE!' response.

I've also learned that Extended Drain Intervals == Sludge/Failure/Destruction.

 

[camrydriver111]

Originally Posted By: Yup
Are these pictures from "normal recommended intervals" or some random pics someone claims are recommended intervals? Were they using full synthetic Euro oil? Lots of questions about an engine that bad unrelated to oil change intervals.


They are random sludge pictures.

Originally Posted By: mvent
Here's my dilemma and I know I'm not alone in this but just picked up 2016 4Runner SR5 and can't wrap my brain around this first oil change at 10k miles. When my wife bought her 2014 Accord I read were Honda strongly recommends leaving in FF until OLM came on at 15% due to moly or something to aid in break in. Is this the case with Toyota as well? Also have read that Toyota runs engines at factory then changes oil and filter before shipping, can anyone verify if this actually happens? TIA


From my reading on BITOG Toyota doesn't use as much moly additive like Honda.

As far as I know Honda is one of the few manufacturers that actually says something about the factory fill, and recommends leaving it in there.

 

[surfstar]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
It never ceases to amaze me how people go out and buy a brand new car and then never change the oil.


It never ceases to amaze me how people want to waste perfectly good oil.

Is the new 4runner sludge-prone? Especially with a brand new engine and oil fill?

Bumper sticker suggestion for ya:

"Have you changed your oil today?"

 

[CT8]

Originally Posted By: surfstar
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
It never ceases to amaze me how people go out and buy a brand new car and then never change the oil.


It never ceases to amaze me how people want to waste perfectly good oil.

Is the new 4runner sludge-prone? Especially with a brand new engine and oil fill?

Bumper sticker suggestion for ya:

"Have you changed your oil today?"
I have seen the insides of thousands of engine some properly maintained some not. An early oil change can always be a +. Will it matter? Not if you trade out vehicles often.

 

[CharlieBauer]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
It never ceases to amaze me how people go out and buy a brand new car and then never change the oil.


We all live in some sort of bubble where things that are obvious or common sense to others, are not to us.

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
There are a few things to consider. FF MAY be additive'ized...

Machining metals (bits and pieces) can damage the oil pump by scoring the end plates...

To get to the filter, the oil has to go through the pump ...

While you're at it, install a new factory oil filter exactly like the one that came on it. Cut the old one apart. If you do not see shiny bits, you have a good clean motor, or all the bits are still in the sump... The magnet will get steel and iron. Aluminum and plastic bits are less of a problem ...

This is just reasonable prudence. You'all paid (or are paying) $40K or something. Why on earth take a chance with that big of an investment? It might make it through warranty and break 5,000 miles later due to something that happened early on... Then it's your wallet that takes the hit. All for the cost of a magnetic drain plug (~$12), a filter (~$10) and maybe two quarts of oil (~$10). So for less than a meal out with your wife, you can have peace of mind

So you are claiming that by changing the oil early I can magically get the offending particles out of the oil before they go through the pump and cause damage? What is the residence time of such particles in the sump prior to passing through the oil pump? 10 miles? 100? 1000?

And as far as warranty plus 5000 miles, well I seem to have made it okay despite running the FF out to the recommended OCI on both my Toyotas and the Honda.

 

[Kuato]

Originally Posted By: Phishin
I can't believe people here on BITOG believe in the myth that the FF is something "special" and it needs to be left in the engine to "properly break it in". Jeeez. Come on fellas.

When I buy a new car, I change the oil at 500, 1000, and 2500 miles and then resume normal OCI's.


I'm in the "change early club" so completely agree. Although the FF might be something special, there is no actual evidence or information so we really don't know. What we DO know is that there is always a higher amount of particulates with a new engine, and that removing those particles is a good thing.