Need oil additive advise for replacement engine.
- Thread starter 13Track38
- Start date
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
Now why didn't that M1 diet protect his engine ?
Because as it has always been with any appropriately rated oil, it isn't about the oil it's about the engine. No appropriately rated oil kills an engine, poor design or a defect kills an engine.
I hope that response s for others and not me.
I was clearly tongue in cheek on that riposte
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
Now why didn't that M1 diet protect his engine ?
Because as it has always been with any appropriately rated oil, it isn't about the oil it's about the engine. No appropriately rated oil kills an engine, poor design or a defect kills an engine.
I hope that response s for others and not me.
I was clearly tongue in cheek on that riposte
Originally Posted by OilUzer
Did Hyundai help with the replacement engine and was your engine under a recall?
Was out of warranty so no and there was no recall.
Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
2 quarts is unacceptable. What kind've warranty does your rebuild have? Definitely take it back.
No warranty now since is passed time.
Originally Posted by PimTac
So if I understand this correctly, your engine blew and was replaced by a junkyard engine, not a rebuilt? Was this done by a private mechanic?
The history of that junkyard engine is the unknown.
Correct and it was installed by the dealership. The engine was out of a Genesis that had suffered a front end collision that was on the right front side if I remember correctly.
Thanks to everyone for your input.
I'm no fan of Hyundai. I relate the car like a good looking woman that's a lot of trouble in a relationship since the car looks good but doesn't do what it's told half the time. When it's acting right though it is a really fun car. Quick, loves to drift and the backfiring V6 sounds great. They're trying to compete with Infinity ect but quality is just not there. I feel so much potential was missed with the Coupe. I've had a lot of trouble out of the dealers too so while the warranty was valid it was practically useless most times. I knew some of the risks going in and got the car used for a good price. No way would I buy a new Genesis even if I found a good dealer. Some guys have installed LS V8 engines in their Coupes for more power and reliability but I'm not doing that.
Did Hyundai help with the replacement engine and was your engine under a recall?
Was out of warranty so no and there was no recall.
Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
2 quarts is unacceptable. What kind've warranty does your rebuild have? Definitely take it back.
No warranty now since is passed time.
Originally Posted by PimTac
So if I understand this correctly, your engine blew and was replaced by a junkyard engine, not a rebuilt? Was this done by a private mechanic?
The history of that junkyard engine is the unknown.
Correct and it was installed by the dealership. The engine was out of a Genesis that had suffered a front end collision that was on the right front side if I remember correctly.
Thanks to everyone for your input.
I'm no fan of Hyundai. I relate the car like a good looking woman that's a lot of trouble in a relationship since the car looks good but doesn't do what it's told half the time. When it's acting right though it is a really fun car. Quick, loves to drift and the backfiring V6 sounds great. They're trying to compete with Infinity ect but quality is just not there. I feel so much potential was missed with the Coupe. I've had a lot of trouble out of the dealers too so while the warranty was valid it was practically useless most times. I knew some of the risks going in and got the car used for a good price. No way would I buy a new Genesis even if I found a good dealer. Some guys have installed LS V8 engines in their Coupes for more power and reliability but I'm not doing that.
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Originally Posted by dogememe
Tell me again how Hyunkias are so great? Lol 2qts/5k = sell the car NOW.
There's not a car mfg out there that hasn't experienced problems at some time or another, so by your reasoning every brand is junk.
Tell me again how Hyunkias are so great? Lol 2qts/5k = sell the car NOW.
There's not a car mfg out there that hasn't experienced problems at some time or another, so by your reasoning every brand is junk.
engine restore may or may not help, but it may be worth a try for a while until you can figure things out:
https://www.restoreusa.com/index.php
use only the amount recommended for your size engine and best of luck
https://www.restoreusa.com/index.php
use only the amount recommended for your size engine and best of luck
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
Now why didn't that M1 diet protect his engine ?
Because as it has always been with any appropriately rated oil, it isn't about the oil it's about the engine. No appropriately rated oil kills an engine, poor design or a defect kills an engine.
That'sss Righttt!
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
Now why didn't that M1 diet protect his engine ?
Because as it has always been with any appropriately rated oil, it isn't about the oil it's about the engine. No appropriately rated oil kills an engine, poor design or a defect kills an engine.
That'sss Righttt!
MrQuackers
Site Donor 2024
Originally Posted by John_Conrad
engine restore may or may not help, but it may be worth a try for a while until you can figure things out:
https://www.restoreusa.com/index.php
use only the amount recommended for your size engine and best of luck
The FAQ states the particles are spherical and <10 microns. So they should pass right through a Supertech filter. Also there is an old school print and mail 2 dollar rebate. I might try a can just for fun.
engine restore may or may not help, but it may be worth a try for a while until you can figure things out:
https://www.restoreusa.com/index.php
use only the amount recommended for your size engine and best of luck
The FAQ states the particles are spherical and <10 microns. So they should pass right through a Supertech filter. Also there is an old school print and mail 2 dollar rebate. I might try a can just for fun.
Forty cars over sixty years of driving. Can't remember which I used Restore in, but it seemed to help.
Originally Posted by 13Track38
I got Engine Restorer yesterday. Is only a few bucks even without the $2 rebate so is worth a shot. They sell 2 cans for $13 at Autozone right now for members. Will post UOA update in a few months.
Cheaper than a rebuild.. keep us posted, I'm very interested in how this goes for ya using the Restore and hope it helps some. ðŸ‘
I got Engine Restorer yesterday. Is only a few bucks even without the $2 rebate so is worth a shot. They sell 2 cans for $13 at Autozone right now for members. Will post UOA update in a few months.
Cheaper than a rebuild.. keep us posted, I'm very interested in how this goes for ya using the Restore and hope it helps some. ðŸ‘
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Originally Posted by 13Track38
Will do. Wondering when I have oil burn during this OCI if topping off with more engine restore would be better than just oil.
I would probably just top off with plain oil. Any solid particles in Restore that are filling in surface imperfections/wear won't evaporate (i think), so they would be left behind in the crankcase.
Did you happen to compression test or do a leak down on each cylinder before using the Restore??
Will do. Wondering when I have oil burn during this OCI if topping off with more engine restore would be better than just oil.
I would probably just top off with plain oil. Any solid particles in Restore that are filling in surface imperfections/wear won't evaporate (i think), so they would be left behind in the crankcase.
Did you happen to compression test or do a leak down on each cylinder before using the Restore??
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Ok guys I haven't forgotten this thread so here's a update finally. The engine is still running strong as I just replaced the faulty oil temp sensor yesterday that was cutting engine power and here's a picture showing my 2 past oil reports using engine restore since I last posted here. I changed the oil yesterday that did not have engine restore in it and will ship that sample off tomorrow for analysis. I'll post that report here when I get it and this latest oil was 10W30 since I was trying to see if oil burn would be less with it but the rate was 2qts just as with the 5W30 I normally use so I'm back to that with no engine restore again.
D
Deleted member 89374
As a Hyundai / KIA "aficionado" I am very familiar with their engines. I even had the 3.8 MPI motor in a KIA Sorento that I ran for 7 years on Vanilla Mobil 1 5W-20. However, I babied that vehicle and it had 5000-mile OCIs.
Unfortunately, you are dealing with a worn-out motor, and normally I would tell you to go with a European Formula motor oil. Something like Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 or Castrol EDGE 0W-40 or EDGE 5W-40, all available at Walmart. Even the owner's manual allows up to 20W-50 motor oil for that engine.
If you can afford it, do a 5000 mile run on Red Line 5W-30. If the wear numbers are still not satisfactory and you live/drive in a hot climate, then go up to RedLine 5W-40. Unfortunately, there is no magic oil additive that will fix your engine. However, Red Line has a ton of Anti Wear additives along with a boatload of tri-nuclear Moly, so at the very least everything will slide easier inside the engine without increasing wear from this point on.
I hope this helps.
The original 3.8L GDI engine in my daily driver 2013 Genesis Coupe lasted over 100k miles then ceased due to bad bearings despite regular 5k mile OCIs and Blackstone UOAs showing good wear #s on Mobil1 full synth 5w30 and oem filters. It had 1qt of oil burn every 5k miles that developed late and I kept it topped off.
Now the replacement 3.8L engine with around 60k miles that's out of a front collision Genesis has 2qt of oil burn every 5k miles and the UOAs show higher wear #s as well despite the lower miles. I'm wondering if people here that I've seen have much more experience than myself with oils believe that changing from Mobil1 to Amsoil along with using a oil additive like LM MoS2, Lubegard Biotech or Archoil 9100 would improve the UOA wear #s and help extend engine life.
The dealership service supervisor advised the MoS2 which they do sell btw wouldn't have prevented the bearings from going bad in my previous engine and advised that I not waste money on it but I want 2nd opinions here.
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2020/02/full-71171-41679-sig1.jpg "[Linked Image]")
Try running the Mobil 1 or Castrol 0w40, both have enough zinc to keep things happy. Forget the snake oils.
M1 is okay.Its probably not classified as a true synthetic but its hard to say for certain that its the fault of M1 either.Sometimes things just happen. Many people claim Mos2 clogs up but it never happened in my Hyundai as I drove it everyday. Sometimes bad things just happen lol.Originally Posted by tig1
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
NO magic band aids, sorry.
M1 isnt magic either.
Burning calls for Rotella T3 10W30 Dino oil .
I havent been able to find it anywhere in jugs, just 5gal pails.
OTW just run Formula Shell or QSGB
So Rotella is a band aid when you said there is "no magic band aids".
Yes. no Magic band aids.
Now why didn't that M1 diet protect his engine ?
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You ain't lying. I forgot to tighten my drain plug with the wrench and it fell out along with all my oil during a 10 mile trip. I've been changing oil for over 30yrs and I've never done such a stupid thing. Got it to the dealer and they added 5qts of Pennz full synth 5w30 and got most of the oil off the bottom of the car with brake cleaner. Now my oil burn rate will be worse I'm sure. Just thankful it didn't seize. Would another bottle of engine restore or anything else be helpful after that mistake?
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