Need new front struts?

I was (repeat WAS) a fan of Sachs.. But when I recently ordered some up they were already defective! When attempting to push the center piston down and it just stayed there!! Eventually it SLOWLY came back up, but that's not how new shocks are supposed to act. I think Sachs is in trouble, lots of people are saying they're reboxing other aftermarket parts in their boxes. I wouldn't bother with that company, seriously.. I wouldn't..

Apparently you don't understand how a conventional twin-tube damper works.
It can have some mild gas pressure that pushes the piston rod out, but it doesn't
need to. It doesn't affect damping. However:


Now if you can afford it, look into Bilstein's B6 oem replacement shocks. smooth ride, firm handling. It's what I ended up buying. And no, the Bilsteins are not hard riding or harsh.

I do agree with this advice!

(and they have plenty of gas pressure, made possible by being monotube design)
.
 
Some used strut pics. Above is for the 2.5 4cyl. Below is the 3.5 v6

When you go to a website for aftermarket complete struts most build them the same for the 2.5 and 3.5.
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So far I have found 3.5 springs are no good for the 2.5. Too stiff and tall. Because it’s a lighter engine? The 2.5 springs are discontinued so I’m forced to use them over. But as mentioned I can’t push the hood down and it still looks tall. It’s not sagging at all. More room in the front wheel well than the rear.
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I loved my PureContact tires. IMO they were better than the original DWS as a true-all-season summer/winter tire. I got about 50K with my 5 series BMW.
 
I installed Mando quick struts in out Traverse. They work as they should and I would definitely buy Mando products again.
 
Apparently you don't understand how a conventional twin-tube damper works.
It can have some mild gas pressure that pushes the piston rod out, but it doesn't
need to. It doesn't affect damping. However:




I do agree with this advice!

(and they have plenty of gas pressure, made possible by being monotube design)
.

Interesting that all the other twin-tube damper designs pushed the piston rod back up on on their own, and quickly. And this one just sat there, it had to be helped up. I have had this exact shock before from Sachs and they do not behave like that. No, that's called defective if the pressure cannot react to input on the piston rod. Regardless of it's design. But thanks for the input.

yes monotubes have a more direct route for pressure and that makes them react quicker to bumps. But even a twin-tube should have enough pressure to move a piston rod back instead of just sitting there, it collapsed on itself, simple as that. Junk.. not design, quality was junk now. So yes I'm staying away from Sachs. That company has problems lately..
 
Some used strut pics. Above is for the 2.5 4cyl. Below is the 3.5 v6

When you go to a website for aftermarket complete struts most build them the same for the 2.5 and 3.5.
View attachment 99842
So far I have found 3.5 springs are no good for the 2.5. Too stiff and tall. Because it’s a lighter engine? The 2.5 springs are discontinued so I’m forced to use them over. But as mentioned I can’t push the hood down and it still looks tall. It’s not sagging at all. More room in the front wheel well than the rear.

The only other option (if you can't find all-in-one assembled struts) is to manually put together the spring from the 2.5L model onto this or any other strut. and yes it sits taller because the heavier engine compressed the spring down, you are correct. Might also give a stiffer ride because it's for a heavier vehicle.

You said the 2.5L springs were discontinued? I think you mean in the ready-in-one strut assemblies.. Because I did find the springs for the 2.5L altima 2006
 
Interesting that all the other twin-tube damper designs pushed the piston rod back up on on their own, and quickly. And this one just sat there, it had to be helped up. I have had this exact shock before from Sachs and they do not behave like that. No, that's called defective if the pressure cannot react to input on the piston rod. Regardless of it's design. But thanks for the input.

I agree it's normal for many twin-tube dampers to exhibit some gas pressure.
I just said it isn't required for proper function. If I'd release that pressure from
your shocks I'd bet you wouldn't notice any difference at all. If they are not
working properly they more likely lost some oil. I've never seen that with Sachs.


yes monotubes have a more direct route for pressure and that makes them react quicker to bumps. But even a twin-tube should have enough pressure to move a piston rod back instead of just sitting there, it collapsed on itself, simple as that. Junk.. not design, quality was junk now. So yes I'm staying away from Sachs. That company has problems lately..

Interesting you try elaborating on shock technology . . . .
Gas pressure itself has nothing to do with 'reacting quicker to bumps'. Nothing. Gas
pressure helps to suppress cavitation. Repeated cavitation can result in foaming
which obviously is bad but doesn't happen on street-legal driving. Rarely if not never.
Monotube also provides superior cooling but this again has nothing do to do with
'reacting quicker to bumps'. Third point, monotube provides the possibility to use a
bigger piston, just because inner tube is outer tube, there's no second one needing
additional space. The bigger piston means more space for bigger valves which are
easier to tune for a range of piston speeds. However this possibility is rarely used in
practice. Actually this is one of the 'secrets' why B6 and B8 are superior to the vast
majority of twin-tube dampers. Same with monotube making upside-down design
possible which leds to reduced unsprung mass when designed accordingly but again
it's quite rarely used.
Don't get me wrong, it's completely ok to not know much about all of this, however
it seems ridiculous trying to explain differences with 'a more direct route for pressure'
and things like that.
.
 
The only other option (if you can't find all-in-one assembled struts) is to manually put together the spring from the 2.5L model onto this or any other strut. and yes it sits taller because the heavier engine compressed the spring down, you are correct. Might also give a stiffer ride because it's for a heavier vehicle.

You said the 2.5L springs were discontinued? I think you mean in the ready-in-one strut assemblies.. Because I did find the springs for the 2.5L altima 2006
Unfortunately the springs listed for the 2.5 are also listed for the 3.5. I'm pretty confident there's nothing wrong with the original springs. No dipping if I hit the brakes. Doesn't bounce if I try pushing on the hood. Sits higher in the front like all they all do.
 
Unfortunately the springs listed for the 2.5 are also listed for the 3.5. I'm pretty confident there's nothing wrong with the original springs. No dipping if I hit the brakes. Doesn't bounce if I try pushing on the hood. Sits higher in the front like all they all do.


ahh ok.. well that's a disappointment.. Hey I tried to help! :geek:
 
I read many posts on here about Sachs being reliable OEM quality and not as harsh as KYB. So here goes.. I plan on reusing the mounts bearings, spring isolators, boots, etc. It’s all pretty much new.
 

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I recently installed the KYB strut assembly on my Venza, all 4 corners. At 135,000 miles is was necessary.

It has improved the ride quite a bit, and wasn't that hard to do in the driveway in about 4-5 hours of my free to me labor. It was apparent after install just how worn out my struts assemblies were. Raised ride height an inch and a half.
 
I recently installed the KYB strut assembly on my Venza, all 4 corners. At 135,000 miles is was necessary.

It has improved the ride quite a bit, and wasn't that hard to do in the driveway in about 4-5 hours of my free to me labor. It was apparent after install just how worn out my struts assemblies were. Raised ride height an inch and a half.
The struts I’m replacing did something similar. The spring rate was way to stiff and raised the car so much it was handling bad in rain and snow. Took it for an alignment and they couldn’t adjust camber into spec. Had to put the old springs on the new strut assy and all was good. For a year.
 
So if I get the strut back in the same position I don’t shouldn’t need an alignment?
 

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