Need Mice Advice

I used 0000 steel wool, wooden mouse traps with cheap Menards PB. After you catch mouse, throw the trap away and use a new one. They say they can smell our scent and won't return. Also put them on the sides next to bulkheads as they usually follow near the outer edges. I like the black box/green death but only in winter as they will eat it and crunch extremely loudly at night before they run outside/away to die.

This one I want to make.... https://youtu.be/F_a8Pcd8k9s
 
Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
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Exactly what I was thinking .

This is what My parents used & what I have always used . As some one else said , peanut butter works very well for bait .
 
Anyone use a indoor plug in Ultrasonic Electronic Pest Repeller? My cousin had mice problems and after installing one of these he hasn't had any problems in a few years.
 
We haven't been driving much these last three months and when we do we usually alternate between the vehicles. The Frontier stays garaged 100% of the time.

We got in the Frontier the other day to run tho the grocery store. Once we were in and moving, there came an awful smell from the vents. I just figured it as time to replace the in-cabin air filters so I stopped at NAPA and picked one up. When I got home and pulled the old filters out I knew I was in trouble. Along with the filters out came a nest made up of chewed up tissue. And I mean a lot of tissue. I ever did see and dropping, food, or even a mouse in that mess. So Cleaned the filter box as best I could and vacuumed all the tissue I could get to. I changed the filters and buttoned everything back up. I ran a can of sanitizer spray you can pick up at Walmart through the air conditioner and the ducts like the can says to do. When I turned the fan on high as instructed, I thought the fan was going to break apart it was rattling so bad. So I dropped the fan thinking I might have to replace it. But fortunately I found the problem. Inside the fan were three dead baby mice that must have fallen down the opening from the filters to the fan. I believe that because the noise, when the fan was on high, wasn't there before I changed the filters.

I'm 66 years old and have never and that happen to me before. The smell for that short time was unbearable. The can of odor neutralizer I bought at Walmart did a great job helping get rid of the odor. Always a first time for everything

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After you plug it … drop a sticky trap there with a dab of peanut butter … verifies traffic … but they're going to look for next "door" if not thinned/gone …
I like the rat size pads for my garden shed … they don't do well with rats but are good at getting mice …
 
I have the Victor Electronic mouse trap, using 4 AA batteries, and the Rat Zapper II, using 4 D batteries, both electrocuting the offender.

But work well, the Victor being smaller, however to dump you have to take two hands and push, move, unsnap the halves, not hard, just not as easy as the Rat Zapper and your hands come closer to the mouse. The Rat Zapper II, you just dump in the garbage, bigger, but easier. Both have a flashing light when a rodent is caught. The Rat Zapper also has a flashing light when the batteries are low, I don't remember about the Victor.
 
Originally Posted by diyjake
Anyone use a indoor plug in Ultrasonic Electronic Pest Repeller? My cousin had mice problems and after installing one of these he hasn't had any problems in a few years.


The FTC has recently sent letters to many makers of ultrasonic pest repellers telling them to prove the device works or pull from market. If they do anything the ultrasonic sound will not go through walls or ceiling. Hard to do in a cathedral ceiling for example.
 
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I was told by a biologist that the mice need to leave the nest every day to find food and water and will go outside to get it if needed. Its possible they can find water and food inside.

They sell spray foam with pepper and copper wool (no rusting) vs steel wool.

Becare with any poison if you have pets.
 
you are probably encountering anticoagulant resistant mice, they are very common now because of the over use of warfarin etc. The first generation anticoagulants can now be considered essentially useless.

I have seen this many times in my career.

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2480843/

"Resistance to anticoagulants in Mus musculus has been reported from England, and resistant mice are probably to be found in other countries also in view of the great individual variation in susceptibility of this species to these rodenticides."

Switch to a Cholecalciferol/Vitamin D3 bait (terad) and rodent proof the building as others have stated, a mouse can get through a hole the size of a dime.

https://store.doyourownpestcontrol.com/active-ingredients/cholecalciferol-terad3-rodent-bait
 
If you have vinyl siding they run up the edge caps. Seal with chicken wire. I average 15 Chipmunks and 18 mice a season using the "walk the plank" and the sticky traps. They love "David" sunflower seeds. This was a triple. The nuisance chipmunk digging holes and two mice are sunk to the bottom.

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Originally Posted by wwillson
Mice can get in the tiniest holes. Twenty years ago I had a mouse problem in the house I lived in and found two things that pretty much eliminated them.

1) Get down on your hands and knees and look very carefully around the entire foundation of your house. Any crack or hole you see, stuff it tightly with steel wool. I found one place where the concrete had a gap between the plate about the thickness of a USB drive and that's where they were getting in.

2) Get rat sized sticky traps and put a small amount of peanut butter in the exact center. If you put too much on, they will roll around in it and can unstick from the trap, because peanut butter is a good lube. A small amount is a dollop about the size of a dime. Mice can not stay away from peanut butter. Check the traps every day, if you forget, the smell will remind you.

Good luck




I used to work in a feed mill and you would not believe how tiny of a hole a mouse can get through. WWILLSON knows what he is talking about. The peanut butter trap is the same one I use. Just place the traps around the edges where they will walk. It works plus you get the satisfaction of seeing the results. I will still use the spring loaded traps as well.
 
Originally Posted by 2004tdigls
you are probably encountering anticoagulant resistant mice, they are very common now because of the over use of warfarin etc. The first generation anticoagulants can now be considered essentially useless.

I have seen this many times in my career.

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2480843/

"Resistance to anticoagulants in Mus musculus has been reported from England, and resistant mice are probably to be found in other countries also in view of the great individual variation in susceptibility of this species to these rodenticides."

Switch to a Cholecalciferol/Vitamin D3 bait (terad) and rodent proof the building as others have stated, a mouse can get through a hole the size of a dime.

https://store.doyourownpestcontrol.com/active-ingredients/cholecalciferol-terad3-rodent-bait







A dead giveaway is when you start seeing green turds. They are just being fed by the bait them.

I always bait with the good rat bait from the farm and home stores and use multiple kinds. If one kind doesn't kill them another will. You know you have good bait when the crawl out into the middle of the floor and die or you see them moving real slow.
 
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