need help reducing oil consumption

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bluedevils

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Dec 12, 2002
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Location
Detroit MI USA
1998 Isuzu Trooper. 3.5L Isuzu V6, 24V, DOHC, I think all-aluminum. The Isuzu 3.5L V6 is known to have common oil consumption problems. Our truck fits that category. Some owners think it's because oil rings have too few/small drainback holes and things get worse when oil gets dirty.

Ours has gone from 1 qt used every 2500-3000 miles when newer, to 1 qt every 800-1000 miles now. Nothing has slowed the rate - synthetic, different brands, etc. When on dino, changes usually 3k miles but occasionally up to 4k. With Mobil 1, changes every 5k. Truck started on dino, then synth blend, then Mobil 1, back to dino, and Rotella T synth 5W40 for last 2000 miles (couldn't resist at $2/qt). Consumption seems to have improved slightly with the Rotella - around 1 qt / 1000 miles vs. 1 qt / 800 miles on previous dino interval.

Looking for advice on specifically what to do that might reduce the consumption. So far, I plan to do the following, at the same time: 1) have a shop clean the EGR valve and passages; 2) add some Neutra with a fresh Chevron Supreme dino oil change; 3) add some Neutra to the gas tank; and 4) install new PCV valve (truck still has original one). After 500 miles or so, change oil again (no Neutra this time).

Does that sound like a reasonable plan? Any suggestions? One last question - is the yellow bottle Neutra the 131 that I'd want for this situation? Just received my 4 bottles from Mills Power Equip - fair price and fast delivery (ordered 11/18, received 11/22 in Michigan via FedEx Ground). Invoice says Neutra Fuel STab #SCH131BT, but the bottles don't seem to indicate.
 
Maybe some VII.

I would try a STRAIGHT weight 30w oil.

If this helps, then ADD some Moly or go with a Straight with MOLY, this helped me the most, before the VII... then if you want more, add the VII later. First try to get an oil that does better.
 
bluedevil, I think you are rihgt on track. I would definately try the 131 in the crankcase. I belive 500 miles is the normal usuage for this product. I also know that Bob left 131 in an engine and drove it from Texas to Flordia with little adverse effect. It did make his wear numbers a bit higher but nothing that would cause alarm if you saw it in one UOA.

Seeinghow winter is almost upon us in Michigan I would not try any straight weight oils until spring.

Their are two direstions you can go! You can try thicker oil as the ambient temps. allow or thiner. In a few rare cases I have witnessed thiner oil solveing consumption issues.
 
Chevron Supreme multi weight oil costs about
$1.00/qt at the local Costco. At your current
oil consumption rate, that's under $2.00 per
1,000 miles driven. Tearing your engine apart
to fix the problem will be in the $1,000's.

If you live in an area that requires regular
emissions inspection and you pass, wouldn't it
just be better to live with the additional $2.00
per 1,000 mile expense rather than repair the
engine or waste time dumping expensive miracle
cures (that rarely work) down the drain also?

Chumley
 
quote:
Originally posted by sbc350gearhead:
Don't even think of using a straight 30 in detroit during the winter. Try an auto-rx treatment.
Click to expand...
Youre probably right, I didn't see or consider to think where he lived. Although my 30w is a 0 Pourpoint and with additives less (-15 to -35 depending on what you use), I'm sure it gets cold there and I didn't think about it.
 
Thanks for the replies.

1. I definitely won't try a straight 30-weight with Michigan winter arriving soon.

2. I've tried 5W30, 10W30, and even 15W40 [Delvac 1300] and none of those seemed to alter the gradual increased consumption rate.

3. I don't mind dumping 3 extra quarts of $1/qt oil in during a 3k interval. I do mind the idea that the consumption is getting worse and worse. When it increased to < 1000 miles per quart, I felt I needed to do something.

4. Emissions inspections are not a concern, since Michigan does not have them.

5. I check the oil 2-3 times a week, but every once in a while I forget for a few days and if I've driven 400-500 miles I'm a half-quart low. I prefer to keep it closer to fully topped off.

6. I have tried waiting until it's a quart low before adding, or adding 1/8-1/4 qt at a time, as soon as it drops a bit. Neither approach seemed to affect consumption rate.

7. My reality is I will not get into anything beyond having EGR and PCV cleaned/replaced, throwing some Neutra [inexpensive] additive into the oil and gas, and doing another oil change. Things like cylinder soaks, expensive engine treatments, and the like are beyond what I am willing to deal with. If this doesn't help, I'll just keep adding oil until the truck dies.

8. Several 3.5L Trooper owners report reduced consumption running Mobil 1 [0W30, 5W30, and 10W30]. I'd be willing to try 15W50 in the warmer season, but I doubt it would help.

[ November 22, 2003, 08:56 PM: Message edited by: bluedevils ]
 
quote:
Originally posted by bluedevils:


2. I've tried 5W30, 10W30, and even 15W40 [Delvac 1300] and none of those seemed to alter the gradual increased consumption rate.
Click to expand...
Pennzoil Long-Life, not Delvac...I've ran both Delo and Rotella in my pickup before, and neither one of them reduced consumption like Long-Life.
 
I have the same vehicle, same consumption problem. Our rig has 98,000 miles on it. Other than oil use, it has been extremely reliable.

As with you, I have tried some different things (Mobil 1 different weights, blends, AutoRX). I also go with Mobil 1 and 5,000 mile intervals.

To see if it would help, I am currently 800 miles into an AutoRX treatment. I will know more next month when I hit the highway (1200 miles round trip).

Prior to the AutoRX treatment, a mixture of Mobil 1 0W40 (80%) and Mobil 1 15W50 (20%) really slowed consumption. If it does use any beyond that, I add 15W50. I can tell you Mobil 1 10W30 was about 1 qt every 1,500 miles. With the mixture, I was at 1,500 miles and had about 1/4 qt.

By the way, I went straight 15W50 in the summer and there was zero consumption. But, at cold startup, there was a ticking noise. So, based upon my use, I wouldn't recommend straight 15W50 (YMMV). That is the reason I am using AutoRX right now.

Hope this helps...Curt
 
bluedevils- here is a good link on the EGR cleaning for these engines: isuzu 3.2 & 3.5 EGR cleaning Make sure you change out/ clean your PCV valve & tubing as well. This will keep crank-case pressure as low as possible to help keep too much oil from getting into the combustion chamber. The bad oil ring design on 1998-early 2000 3.2/3.5 is not a myth. This is the cause of the oil consumption issues. If you can keep the ring packs clean, you will be OK. I would try some auto-rx treatments, and/or a cylinder soak with a quality cleaner type product to help clean your dirty ring packs. I would not use too heavy of an oil per your climate, but isuzu says you can use up to a 20w-50 motor oil at temps above 10degF
shocked.gif
.
G/luck
Joel
 
I thought Neutra was generally considered an inexpensive alternative to Auto-RX. Is Neutra not as effective as, or does it have a different specialty than, Auto-RX?
 
My Mitsubishi truck has an oil consumption issue that's common to the 2.4 motor.
I would go with the ARX treatment then as thick an oil as possible before you get any lifter ticks or other engine noises, buy good dino by the case, Cheveron maybe or try Some of the " max life " high mile oils as they have seal conditioners & I've heard they work.
I know this may seem obvious but I find if I'm easy on the gas, downshift & stay around 60-63 mph's tops on the parkways, it makes a world of difference .
The guy I bought my truck off of told me it uses a qt. per 1000 since new that was 35k miles ago & it still uses the same, so the point being it doesnt mean vehicles that are borderline excessive oil consumers are on thier last legs.
Also if you think about it, you could strech the oil changes to 3500 or even 4000 miles as your always adding fresh oil ..
 
quote:
Originally posted by Scali62:
-*-*-*
The guy I bought my truck off of told me it uses a qt. per 1000 since new that was 35k miles ago & it still uses the same, so the point being it doesnt mean vehicles that are borderline excessive oil consumers are on thier last legs.
Also if you think about it, you could strech the oil changes to 3500 or even 4000 miles as your always adding fresh oil ..
Click to expand...
Yup, Ive had problems since new too.
The dealer says it should not burn any oil.
I tell them I had been burning "X" amount close to the quart / K, they tell me after they check in some books, that I can burn in my truck 1.5 Quarts before it's considered by Toyota as a problem.
I just keept changing oils until I found 30W that worked for me, and adding VII made it even better.
Went to do a test recently with a multi and teflon and so for it is not buring (941 miles), we'll see.
I would say if it bothers you keep playing around until you find a grade or a mix of grades that works for you.
 
"The guy I bought my truck off of told me it uses
a qt. per 1000 since new that was 35k miles ago &
it still uses the same, so the point being it
doesnt mean vehicles that are borderline
excessive oil consumers are on their last legs.
Also if you think about it, you could strech the
oil changes to 3500 or even 4000 miles as your
always adding fresh oil."

Agreed. I've driven an aging 84 Audi I5 engine I
bought used with about 100,000 miles on it and
consuming about 600 to 700 miles per quart for
over 80,000 miles with no adverse symptoms other
than I think it ruined the catalytic converter
prematurely. I finally pulled the head to fix
some broken exhaust manifold studs. While it was
off I replaced the valve guides and valve guide
seals. The oil consumption (Chevron Supreme
10W-40 winter/20W-50 summer changed at 5000 mile
intervals since I bought it used) went down to
about 1 quart per 2200 miles after the surgery.

I still drive it daily with over 240,000 miles on
the original bottom end. It still easily passes
the California state emission tests as though it
was new. Lotsa life left in that engine!

Chumley
 
quote:
Originally posted by bluedevils:
My reality is I will not get into anything beyond having EGR and PCV cleaned/replaced, throwing some Neutra [inexpensive] additive into the oil and gas, and doing another oil change. Things like cylinder soaks, expensive engine treatments, and the like are beyond what I am willing to deal with. If this doesn't help, I'll just keep adding oil until the truck dies.

Click to expand...
Stock up on oil then since the only cure(cheap/easy) would be to do a piston soak(perhaps several times). Search for Saturn oil related consumption.

I've done the Auto-RX, #131 purge and tho both most likely did clean some of the crud out, they were not effective on the ring pack. I've also ran a flush of LC using fresh oil; out came clear oil, no sludge.

I have not ran enough miles to say that the flush failed too but IMO the cleaners are simply not getting thru the rings. I will do the soak(s) with LC after my current GC fill reaches 6k miles.
 
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