Need help picking oil - Hyundai Veloster N for track and daily driving with oil cooler

If this meets all the specs i probably would be comfertable whith using the pennzoil.
In my hard driven bmw i have used shell penzoil now for 50k miles with good results.

A thinner oil flows faster through the system so spends a shorter period in the heatspots so it doesnt degrade as fast, due to the higher flow it also can cool the hot parts better.

Is the oil cooler an original oil cooler or was it aftermarket fitted?
Is it an oil to water heat exchanger or oil to air cooler?
Do you have an oil temp gauge etc...?

I am guessing its an oil to water heat exchanger, i personally think this is also the best one you can have.
Oil temps should not really be able to come above maximum 120 celcius.
Most of the time it should go on par with the engine temp which should be around 90 a 100 celcius. max.

The real hotspot is the turbo although with such a modern engine i also think its watercooled as well.

I now read this so i assume that you will aftermarket fit an air to oil cooler in the front bumper?

I am more familiar with hondas and know that the newest fk8 type r 320hp 2l turbo engine uses 0w20 and people run that on trackdays with no problems. The honda engine is also used in the american formule 3 cars and they also run the 0w20.
Hi it is an aftermarket oil to air cooler that will be behind the front grill with direct airflow. I do have an oil temp in my car's cluster gauges.
The oil cooler starts being used after oil temp reaches 85 celsius
 
Hi it is an aftermarket oil to air cooler that will be behind the front grill with direct airflow. I do have an oil temp in my car's cluster gauges.
The oil cooler starts being used after oil temp reaches 85 celsius
Ok yeah that should help with keeping the temps reasonable, i also see that water hoses go to the oilfilter housing so i assume that this also has an oil to water and vice versa heat exchanger. I guess this is left unchanged when fitting the aftermarket oil cooler? that goes with a sandwhich plate between the oil filter or housing?

As i said i think you are safe with the penzoil that you suggested, keep monetoring those temps, preferably they should really not exceed 110 120 celcius.

I had an old normaly aspirated peugeot XSI 1.6 and with long highspeed highway runs it would see oil temps of 145 celcius (did not have a cooler etc..) totaly different engine but never failed on me. However not good for the oil in the long run.

With the new type r i hear that in extreme high outside temps on a race track the engine, intercooler etc... gets so hot that eventually the ECU will lower the boost and ignition advance etc... to protect the engine. Especially the IAT intake air temp is crucial for this.

Stuffing 320hp+ 2l turbo engines in the front of a hatchback makes it difficult to fit all the neccesary cooling.
The type r has a normal air intercooler, does the veloster also have an air intercooler or an air to water intercooler? This might be a little better but is also much heavier.
 

Attachments

  • veloster n engine.jpg
    veloster n engine.jpg
    176.8 KB · Views: 39
Ok yeah that should help with keeping the temps reasonable, i also see that water hoses go to the oilfilter housing so i assume that this also has an oil to water and vice versa heat exchanger. I guess this is left unchanged when fitting the aftermarket oil cooler? that goes with a sandwhich plate between the oil filter or housing?

As i said i think you are safe with the penzoil that you suggested, keep monetoring those temps, preferably they should really not exceed 110 120 celcius.

I had an old normaly aspirated peugeot XSI 1.6 and with long highspeed highway runs it would see oil temps of 145 celcius (did not have a cooler etc..) totaly different engine but never failed on me. However not good for the oil in the long run.

With the new type r i hear that in extreme high outside temps on a race track the engine, intercooler etc... gets so hot that eventually the ECU will lower the boost and ignition advance etc... to protect the engine. Especially the IAT intake air temp is crucial for this.

Stuffing 320hp+ 2l turbo engines in the front of a hatchback makes it difficult to fit all the neccesary cooling.
The type r has a normal air intercooler, does the veloster also have an air intercooler or an air to water intercooler? This might be a little better but is also much heavier.
Ya you covered most of it. The car has an oil to water cooler already that is being left in unchanged. I am adding an additional oil to air cooler.

At the track the car's stock air intercooler heatsoaks which causes the ECU to cut power. I am upgrading to a larger intercooler that solves that problem. Lower IATs all the time so no cutting of power.

I still have a few months until my first event so I am just gathering all the info I need. Current idea is still to run a 5w-40 on my first run and monitor the temps. If its not too high I can switch to a 5w-30 or 0w-30. Maybe a Euro spec so the 30 weights would be a little more thick.
 
Ya you covered most of it. The car has an oil to water cooler already that is being left in unchanged. I am adding an additional oil to air cooler.

At the track the car's stock air intercooler heatsoaks which causes the ECU to cut power. I am upgrading to a larger intercooler that solves that problem. Lower IATs all the time so no cutting of power.
Yeah a larger front mounted intercooler is always better although you somteimes lose a little throttle respones, however in practice this is almost never noticable.

Do you leave the ECU/mapping stock or is there an customizable ecu in it.
If you do have an programable ecu you can choose to lower the limit for when it switches from lambda 14.7 tot 12.5 WOT lambda, this also helps with the cooling and power.
Cat protected lamda settings can go as low as 11.5 11.7 to prevent it from overheating, manufacturers opt to stay on 14.7 for as long as possible because its the cleanest and works with the cat at around 14.7. Its also the most fuel efficient.

I dont know if youre also going with a different intake system? Dont underestimate the R&D an manufacturer spent into it. Most non originale intakes that i see have higher intake temps then the oem one and so only reduce power.
 
Yeah a larger front mounted intercooler is always better although you somteimes lose a little throttle respones, however in practice this is almost never noticable.

Do you leave the ECU/mapping stock or is there an customizable ecu in it.
If you do have an programable ecu you can choose to lower the limit for when it switches from lambda 14.7 tot 12.5 WOT lambda, this also helps with the cooling and power.
Cat protected lamda settings can go as low as 11.5 11.7 to prevent it from overheating, manufacturers opt to stay on 14.7 for as long as possible because its the cleanest and works with the cat at around 14.7. Its also the most fuel efficient.

I dont know if youre also going with a different intake system? Dont underestimate the R&D an manufacturer spent into it. Most non originale intakes that i see have higher intake temps then the oem one and so only reduce power.
ECU is not adjustable. They sell ECU tunes and piggyback systems but im not touching it. Stock ECU is just fine. Not looking for more power just want it to be cool.

Not touching the intake. The stock one is fine and changing that would be illegal in California. Don't want problems if I get pulled over.
A small thing I can do if I want colder intake temps. They sell this snorkel attachment that sits behind the front grill so you get cold air directed straight into the intake box.
 
Yes I know. Everyone shares this picture its everywhere on the internet.

BUT

there is not a single post of this on any official hyundai website or any where related to Hyundai.
Unless there is an official post somewhere the dealerships wont care about a picture from the internet.
I was just looking for that same confirmation. You are correct...nothing.
 
I have an i30N that I track which is effectively the same driveline. Given we have an explicit factory track warranty in Australia I decided to stick to the recommended oil in the handbook which is:


According to one comparison of 0W30 oils (https://www.ato24.de/en/blog/comparison-0w-30-engine-oils/) it has a HTHS of 3.6-3.7 and rates well on other measures. Figure that provided I keep it supplied with that oil changed regularly even doing 5-6 track days a year with a 7 year warranty if it goes boom in year 6 they will have to cover it.
 
I'm all in with the higher HTHS oils for track use. At least 3.5. And M1HM 10W-30, being API SP as well, allows for use as a daily driver. But I would still use fresh oil at the track.

Now, if those recommendations by Hyundai are independent of each other and any 0W-30 is fine, I'd include Mobil1 ESP 0W-30 to the shortlist with my previous recommendation.
 
I have an i30N that I track which is effectively the same driveline. Given we have an explicit factory track warranty in Australia I decided to stick to the recommended oil in the handbook which is:


According to one comparison of 0W30 oils (https://www.ato24.de/en/blog/comparison-0w-30-engine-oils/) it has a HTHS of 3.6-3.7 and rates well on other measures. Figure that provided I keep it supplied with that oil changed regularly even doing 5-6 track days a year with a 7 year warranty if it goes boom in year 6 they will have to cover it.

This is Pennzoil Euro LX in North America. Very good oil but it is "only" SN.
 
i'm a bit late but i would suggest using red line's 30wt or 40wt racing oil. I use a mix in my evo of those, and it's worked really well on my car. These oils are thinner than their regular counterparts, which is why I use a mix, but the hths is excellent and my uoa's have come out looking great. i do short intervals, 3k, with track days, and have had no issues. thinner oils will run cooler on track, less friction and wear on the oil pump. would also suggest water wetter.
 
I was told by KDM Tuners to run an Ester based oil on small Hyundai turbos that are pushed to the limit with a stage 2 to stage 2+ tune as they can get red hot, and they do. Get a LARGE oil cooler if tracked. So Redline or Motul V300, isn't there one ester based oil in Motul lineup that is not V300 racing oil that is more for a daily?
 
Back
Top