Need help deciding on 2012 Honda Accord...

[wolfc70]

I would change it now. Run any 0w-20 you can get easily. Mobil1 is fine. I am running the new Synthetic media Purolator filters, so far so good. With the v6, I would not push your OCI, these engines seem hard on oil.

Also, don't baby the car. The people who drive very gently seem to have more issues with oil consumption and spark plugs. The people who drive more aggressively never mention much for problems. I think the key is to keep all 6 cylinders active as much as possible.

On a different note: why did you choose the V6? When I bought mine, I was not that impressed with the v6 powertrain. The four cylinder with a manual seemed about just as quick, and had much better EPA numbers. Just curious.

 

[RTexasF]

When I bought a new Accord (2.4l) I changed the factory fill at 3500 miles to M1 0W20. In 2004 0W20 was all but unheard of and others assured me the engine would die a fiery death. Oil changes were done @ 7500-8500 miles or once annually (no oil life monitor then). It never used any oil from 3500 miles on, none. If you decide to change it now (I would) don't forget to reset the oil life monitor.

 

[Sayjac]

Quote:
.....Most of the owners that have oil burners changed their FF early...

Can you cite an 'authoritative' source for that claim?

Changing the oil before 6k/15%MM will not void the warranty. Never heard of voiding a warranty for changing the oil on a shorter than recommended oci.

Agree with others saying 4k is plenty, time to get the break in metals out. I changed mine out at ~4300mi, and looking at some Honda UOA FF metal numbers would have dumped it sooner if I had to do again.

Any major's 0w20 should work fine.

As for oil filters, if the recent Amsoil test of oem filters is an indication, Honda is really not very picky about filters. Unless you just prefer it, no real reason imo to stick with Honda filters. Wix/NG has recently changed it's spec'd filter to the 57356 from the 51356, it now uses a nitrile adbv rather than silicone. For the same price, wouldn't be my first choice based on that. I've used Pure One successfully for MM ocis. Fram Ultra more pricey than P1, but also a solid option for Honda 0-15% MM or 1 year max oci.

 

[Merkava_4]

Originally Posted By: Chris B.
The engine is speced for 0w20 but I have heard in europe they use 5w30's in this engine. What are your thoughts on that idea?


My thoughts are MaxLife 5W-30 would work real well in your Honda.

 

[Vikas]

After about 850 miles, now the oil monitor is showing 90% life left. I am not sure if I want to do an early oil change or just do 5K change on the factory fill. The Acura owners manual specifically says not to change the first oil earlier than the oil monitor. I am certainly not going to wait until it reaches 10% though.

I am little bit surprised that even though almost all of the 850 miles were done in 30 miles on highway stretches, extrapolation only gives 8500 for this oil change. I would have thought that the algorithm would have come up with unrealistic and longer oil change number if almost all the driving is on the freeway.

 

[stygz]

I would call or take it to the dealer. Have them confirm that the OLM is working properly and if you should change the oil. If you get a good service advisor they may call Honda themselves for guidence. Also they should be able to tell you if it is normal or somthing they have seen in the past.

 

[Indydriver]

Vikas, your extrapolation sounds about right. Our 2011 Accord VCM V6 got to 10% at 6300 miles of nearly all city driving. I know you've read my thread on the FF UOA. I've got the second UOA but haven't had time to post it. This change was at 6400 miles with Honda Genuine Full Syn 0W-20 and it looks really good. Metals way down, fuel down from 0.8% to a trace, TBN at 2.0 on both. On this second fill of HGFS, I'm going to 0% on MM which should take it to about 8000.

My 2012 Toyota Sienna V6, also OE with 0W-20 but no oil monitor, is spec'd for 10,000 no matter how you drive it. Which made me think about the FACT that Honda and Toyota engineers obviously are not the least bit concerned about metals in FFs. I started a thread in Oil Analysis-General Topics on this very subject and, as you might expect, it has drawn a number of comments you might be interested in.

 

[donnyj08]

I would think that after 4K miles it'd broke in. Think about how many revolutions your engine has made in 4k miles, its more than likely good to go!

 

[Vikas]

This straight from the Owner's Manual. I will probably hold off until 4-5K and then call uncle.

First Oil Change Timing
Your Acura engine was delivered with an oil that is specially formulated for new engines that have not yet developed their "natural" wear patterns and may contain minute particles from the manufacturing process.
Acura strongly recommends this special oil be left in the engine long enough for these wear patterns to develop, usually until the first maintenance interval specified in your Owner's Manual, based on your specific driving conditions.

 

[randomhero439]

Do you 1st oil change at 30%, fill with Honda OEM synthetic blend.
Do your 2nd oil change at 30%, fill synthetic of your choice
Do your 3rd oil at 30%, fill with synthetic of your choice.

After this, your engine should be pretty clean of metals and fully broken in. Honda's Oil Life Indicator is based off of engine revolutions. It is also based on conventional oil life. So going down to the recommended 15% is plenty fine for a synthetic.

 

[biodiesel]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4

My thoughts are MaxLife 5W-30 would work real well in your Honda.


The car is brand new. He just bought it. It has less than 5000 miles on it. Why the heck would he use MaxLife?

Chris...I would change out the factory fill now as well. Personally I would avoid Mobil 1. I have owned 6 Honda cars over the years (85 Civic, 91 Accord, 94 Accord, 90 CRX Si, 91 Si Hatchback, and an 03 S2000) and Mobil products never agreed with them. Far too much consumption especially in the S2000 motor. I would highly advise going with Pennzoil products. If it were my Accord I would stick with conventional oil for one more change before switching over to synthetic. I would use 5w20 PYB now and then in 4-5k more miles, essentially around the 10k mark, I would then switch to PP. If you can find 0w20 PP in your area I would go with that when you make the switch to synthetic, otherwise you will be fine running PP 5w20. With regards to filters I've always run Purolator PureOne or Wix. Napa are also a fine choice being made by Wix.

Also another tip, one you can try out for yourself and see if your results match mine. I have found the performance and MPG to be the best running Shell gas in my Hondas. Experiment with it over the next few months and see what you come up with. Chevron and Conoco are a close second. Exxon/Mobil not great and Valero by far the worst in terms of MPG.

Good luck with the new car. It should treat you well.

*EDIT* Just noticed this thread was from originally from August and was recently bumped for some reason. I still stand by my recommendations above but I'm curious what you decided to do Chris. Fill us in when you have a moment and let us know if the ticking noise ceased.

 

[lexus114]

Mr Wonderful say`s "I dont know Honda`s well enough to give you my opinion, so i`m out"

 

[OhioGuy82]

15400-PLM-A02
Honda 0W20.