I have a 1990 Subura Legacy with 127,000 miles that I purchased new. Last year I made a decision to keep this car rather than trade. I had the transmission and cataylic converters checked before making this decision and then spent several hundred dollars on preventative maintenance and having the car repainted. After hearing and reading about the benefits of synthetic oil, I decided to make the change. I took my car to a place similar to but not Jiffy Lube. I was told that to make this change I HAD to have the engine flushed. Believeing these guys were the "experts" I agreed. The flush was done and the synthetic oil was put in. I took the car back from time to time to get the level checked and all seemed fine. Then in December when the weather turned colder I began to hear a pinging sound. Thinking the oil level might be low, I had it checked but it was fine. Then in January when we experienced colder than normal temperatures for our area (SE NC), the noise became louder. Convinced that the oil must be low, I had the level checked and it was just slightly below the full line. Since I had almost driven the 5,000 miles I was told I could drive before a change, I decided to have the oil changed while I was there. I handed the receipt to the guy to be sure he knew to put synthetic back in my car. He looked at it and said "15W50 that's mighty thick oil for your car". I asked if it should be changed to something else and he said "no it'll be fine". However, his comment made me curious so I began to talk to people and do research on the internet and to consult my owners manuel. The manufacturer recommends 10W30/10W40. Heavier oils are only recommended for desert driving and when towing heavy loads. The synthetic oil is Mobile 1. From the Mobile 1 website I have learned that it is NOT necessary to flush before changing from regular oil to synthetic. Instead they recommend a couple of changes at less than 5,000 miles. From another website I have learned that if the engine is clean it doesn't need to be flushed and if it isn't, flushing can dislodge particles that can lead to engine failure. Based on my limited understanding of the properties of oil, when the weather turned cold here my engine actually had to work twice as hard to pump the 15W50 oil. Do you think it is reasonable to believe that the flushing partially clogged some places and the problem didn't become apparent (pinging noise) until our weather turned colder, the oil became thicker because of the weather and my engine couldn't pump this thicker oil? Another mechanic told me it's likely the lifters - whatever that means. He said I should have been able to have driven this particular engine 200,000 before problems like this occured that this problem is not due to normal wear on the engine. I'm still very much a novice when it comes to car engines and oil. However, I'm left with a car that has no trade-in value and probably very little resale value in it's current condition. I've been told it will cost about $90.00 to get an estimate on what the repairs will cost plus the cost of a rental car so I can work. I was not having engine problems until the engine was flushed and the 15W50 oil was put in my car. In my mind, I can't help but place the blame on the Jiffy Lube type place, what do you guys think? Any comments pro and con will be appreciated.
Need Advice
- Thread starter Pegg
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I'd definitely go to the oil chnage place with the rceipt and ask them exactly why they put that oil in there. I doubt they're going to give you any satisfaction, but it won't hurt to talk with them.
Is your car running okay, other than the noise?
(BTW, are you anywhere near Wilmington or Carolina Beach?)
Is your car running okay, other than the noise?
(BTW, are you anywhere near Wilmington or Carolina Beach?)
Mark,
The car seems to running fine. It's never been great on "take off" but once it gets past low it's got great get up and go. I live in Wilmington, NC. Know any good honest mechanics in this area.
Pegg
The car seems to running fine. It's never been great on "take off" but once it gets past low it's got great get up and go. I live in Wilmington, NC. Know any good honest mechanics in this area.
Pegg
If you have the owners manual look and see if Subaru recommends routine maintenance for the valves or valvetrain. Your ping may not be a serious problem if all you need is simple valvetrain service.
And just tell the oil change shop you want to use the viscosity grade thats recommended for your model.
And just tell the oil change shop you want to use the viscosity grade thats recommended for your model.
I grew up(and I use the term loosely) at Carolina and Kure Beach, and went to school at JTHoggard HS, returning to UNCW after an interesting time at NCSU.
If you go down to CB, cross the bridge and keep going down 421 until you pass that stupid amusement park, if it's still there, you'll find Austin and son garage on the left, just past what used to be an Exxon station, I'm not sure what's there now, I've been out here for 5 years.I'm sure you can find the directions online.
Ronnie Austin is the owner these days, and is the best mechanic around, and definitely the most honest.
The address is 8 Winner Ave. the phone number is 458-9296.
Peg
to BITOG.
And thanks for a well thought out comprehensive post. First let me just say that troubleshooting an engine problem over the internet is always difficult but I'll give it a go as I'm sure a few others will too.
From your research, you discovered that a "flush" of the lubrication system is not necessary just to change to synthetic oil, a short change or two is usually adequate to make the transition. Further, if it's the type of "flush" that will dislodge large particles that can clog up the oil pickup screen in the pan and other small orifices throughout the engine (like hydraulic lifters), you will find few here who would recommend it. If you're going to "flush" the lubrication system of an engine, most here prefer a gentle approach provided by something like AutoRX. While a harsh "flush" may not be detrimental to an engine that's relatively clean on the inside, unless you know the cleanliness of the engine internals, I believe you're playing Russian Roulette utilizing a "harsh flush" process on the lubrication system of an engine. Can you find out exactly how they "flushed the engine"?
When you changed to synthetic the choice of Mobil 1 15w-50 was probably not the best one, especially for the winter months. Unless the Mobil 1 15w50 was used to mask other problems, I believe a better choice would of been Mobil 1 0w-40, and possibly Mobil 1 5w-30 or Mobil 1 5w-40 T&SUV as a second choices. Although I suspect the real problem started when they "flushed" the engine.
Well since that's "water already underneath the bridge" let's decide the best course given your present situation. You stated that the engine now "pings". Pinging is generally attributed to detonation or preignition of the combustion gases in the combustion chamber and it's not usually caused by a lubrication problem. Does it sound more like "ticking" or "knocking"? That's usually the sound you hear when you have problems with the hydraulic lifters, assuming of course that engine has hydraulic lifters. This would also explain the mechanics comment. How loud is the noise and are you still driving the car? If you have a trained mechanics ear that can listen to the noise your engine makes, that would help the troubleshooting process immensely. Does that car have an oil pressure gauge on the dashboard? If it does, are the readings normal? If it doesn't have an oil pressure gauge have a mechanic hook up a gauge and check the oil pressure. If the readings are normal, it might be that only the lifters are "plugged up" or stuck. If the oil pressure is not normal, then you need to find out why. If it's not easy to drop the oil pan, a mechanic might be able to inspect the oil pickup screen with a bore-scope through the oil drain plug. (This will require draining the oil and I'd replace the M1 15w50 with some regular 5w-30 SL/SM oil during the troubleshooting process.) He can also take the oil filter off, cut it open and see if it's loaded with debris.
In short, you need to find out if the oil pump is providing adequate oil pressure to the engine, and if it is, what component it not getting proper oil flow and is producing the noise. If the oil pump is NOT providing adequate oil pressure to the engine, you need to find out why and fix that. If you aren't getting any warning lights or buzzers for low oil pressure, it's probably OK to drive the car short distances, but do it gently until you have this resolved. If you do get any warning lights or buzzers for low oil pressure, or if the oil pressure gauge is showing little to no oil pressure, stop the car and shut off the engine, and have it towed.
If MarkC's mechanic is good, he may be your best troubleshooting option.
Best of luck, hoped that helped.
[ February 22, 2005, 10:28 AM: Message edited by: 427Z06 ]
And thanks for a well thought out comprehensive post. First let me just say that troubleshooting an engine problem over the internet is always difficult but I'll give it a go as I'm sure a few others will too.
From your research, you discovered that a "flush" of the lubrication system is not necessary just to change to synthetic oil, a short change or two is usually adequate to make the transition. Further, if it's the type of "flush" that will dislodge large particles that can clog up the oil pickup screen in the pan and other small orifices throughout the engine (like hydraulic lifters), you will find few here who would recommend it. If you're going to "flush" the lubrication system of an engine, most here prefer a gentle approach provided by something like AutoRX. While a harsh "flush" may not be detrimental to an engine that's relatively clean on the inside, unless you know the cleanliness of the engine internals, I believe you're playing Russian Roulette utilizing a "harsh flush" process on the lubrication system of an engine. Can you find out exactly how they "flushed the engine"?
When you changed to synthetic the choice of Mobil 1 15w-50 was probably not the best one, especially for the winter months. Unless the Mobil 1 15w50 was used to mask other problems, I believe a better choice would of been Mobil 1 0w-40, and possibly Mobil 1 5w-30 or Mobil 1 5w-40 T&SUV as a second choices. Although I suspect the real problem started when they "flushed" the engine.
Well since that's "water already underneath the bridge" let's decide the best course given your present situation. You stated that the engine now "pings". Pinging is generally attributed to detonation or preignition of the combustion gases in the combustion chamber and it's not usually caused by a lubrication problem. Does it sound more like "ticking" or "knocking"? That's usually the sound you hear when you have problems with the hydraulic lifters, assuming of course that engine has hydraulic lifters. This would also explain the mechanics comment. How loud is the noise and are you still driving the car? If you have a trained mechanics ear that can listen to the noise your engine makes, that would help the troubleshooting process immensely. Does that car have an oil pressure gauge on the dashboard? If it does, are the readings normal? If it doesn't have an oil pressure gauge have a mechanic hook up a gauge and check the oil pressure. If the readings are normal, it might be that only the lifters are "plugged up" or stuck. If the oil pressure is not normal, then you need to find out why. If it's not easy to drop the oil pan, a mechanic might be able to inspect the oil pickup screen with a bore-scope through the oil drain plug. (This will require draining the oil and I'd replace the M1 15w50 with some regular 5w-30 SL/SM oil during the troubleshooting process.) He can also take the oil filter off, cut it open and see if it's loaded with debris.
In short, you need to find out if the oil pump is providing adequate oil pressure to the engine, and if it is, what component it not getting proper oil flow and is producing the noise. If the oil pump is NOT providing adequate oil pressure to the engine, you need to find out why and fix that. If you aren't getting any warning lights or buzzers for low oil pressure, it's probably OK to drive the car short distances, but do it gently until you have this resolved. If you do get any warning lights or buzzers for low oil pressure, or if the oil pressure gauge is showing little to no oil pressure, stop the car and shut off the engine, and have it towed.
If MarkC's mechanic is good, he may be your best troubleshooting option.
Best of luck, hoped that helped.
[ February 22, 2005, 10:28 AM: Message edited by: 427Z06 ]
427Z06,
You said everything I was thinking. I could not have put my thoughts into writing nearly as well as you did.
You said everything I was thinking. I could not have put my thoughts into writing nearly as well as you did.
Pegg, the 15W rating of the thicker oil really only affects the engine when it is cold. Once it warms up, I would not think that the 15W-50 would cause any permanent damage. Does the pinging go away once the engine is warmed up?
First, change the oil to a 5W-30 for winter. 10W-30 would not be my first choice, but would be better than 15W-50. The 5W-40 mentioned could be used year round. Have someone show you how to check the oil level yourself. You may find the oil level drops faster with the 5W-30 and will need more frequent top off. Can you tell us what was done during the preventive maintenance you describe? It might help to rule out a few things.
First, change the oil to a 5W-30 for winter. 10W-30 would not be my first choice, but would be better than 15W-50. The 5W-40 mentioned could be used year round. Have someone show you how to check the oil level yourself. You may find the oil level drops faster with the 5W-30 and will need more frequent top off. Can you tell us what was done during the preventive maintenance you describe? It might help to rule out a few things.
Mark & 427Z06
Thanks for your replies.
Mark thanks for the recommendation, I'll check them out. Carolina Beach is changing - high rises and property values through the roof. Think the land where the amusement park is located has recently been sold for condos or something. Who'd have believed it a few years ago....
427Z06
I'll call and ask about the flush - I'll pretend I'm interested in changing to synthetic oil. Seems it took 20 - 30 minutes to complete the flush.
It actually is a ticking sound. My car has always made this sound on a cold start up but as soon as the engine warmed it would stop. Now it's a continuous ticking sound. I don't have a "mechanics ear" but the guys at work have told me it's the lifters and they are hydraulic and I've been told not "adjustable". I don't have an oil pressure gauge, but an oil pressure light indicator. It never comes on when I'm driving so I assume the pressure it okay. It does light when I crank the car.
I complained about the 15W50 oil to the Jiffy Lube type place and it was replaced with 10W30 Mobile 1. The owner told me the ticking should go away in a week. The owner also told me he'd take care of the problem so I guess it's time to find out. I can't prove what they did to my car caused the problem, but I can prove that everything they did was wrong for my car from the flush to the weight of oil that was put in my car.
The ticking didn't go away with the change to 15W30 Mobile 1 so last Wednesday I took it to the Car Doctor. He suggested replacing the synthetic oil with regular oil and added MOA whatever that is. That makes 3 oil changes and 2 filters in less than 30 days. He said if that was going to help I'd know in a couple of days. It didn't. I called them back yesterday and now he says the engine has to be torn down to find the problem. That means a rental car for a couple of days and $90.00 if I decide to not repair the car. I "thought" this was a reputable place, however, I asked one of the guys at work to help me check the oil level today. I"m really paronoid about oil now. He checked it several times and everytime it showed a quart over the fill line, so now I'm questioning how reputable this place is. The garage where I used to have the oil changed and general maintenance work done has been sold and they mostly employee Spanish speaking guys. I don't like having to communicate through an interperter so I refuse to go back there.
I'm just very flustrated with and stressed by this situation. Without a doubt, this will have been an expensive lesson,(my car has absolutely no trade-in value and probably no resale value with this problem) but NOBODY will ever do anything to a car I own just because they "think" I'm a dumb blonde. I will, to the best of my ability, become more educated about these things. I've had this car for a long time and never had to question the service that was being performed - guess I've been lucky.
Pegg
Thanks for your replies.
Mark thanks for the recommendation, I'll check them out. Carolina Beach is changing - high rises and property values through the roof. Think the land where the amusement park is located has recently been sold for condos or something. Who'd have believed it a few years ago....
427Z06
I'll call and ask about the flush - I'll pretend I'm interested in changing to synthetic oil. Seems it took 20 - 30 minutes to complete the flush.
It actually is a ticking sound. My car has always made this sound on a cold start up but as soon as the engine warmed it would stop. Now it's a continuous ticking sound. I don't have a "mechanics ear" but the guys at work have told me it's the lifters and they are hydraulic and I've been told not "adjustable". I don't have an oil pressure gauge, but an oil pressure light indicator. It never comes on when I'm driving so I assume the pressure it okay. It does light when I crank the car.
I complained about the 15W50 oil to the Jiffy Lube type place and it was replaced with 10W30 Mobile 1. The owner told me the ticking should go away in a week. The owner also told me he'd take care of the problem so I guess it's time to find out. I can't prove what they did to my car caused the problem, but I can prove that everything they did was wrong for my car from the flush to the weight of oil that was put in my car.
The ticking didn't go away with the change to 15W30 Mobile 1 so last Wednesday I took it to the Car Doctor. He suggested replacing the synthetic oil with regular oil and added MOA whatever that is. That makes 3 oil changes and 2 filters in less than 30 days. He said if that was going to help I'd know in a couple of days. It didn't. I called them back yesterday and now he says the engine has to be torn down to find the problem. That means a rental car for a couple of days and $90.00 if I decide to not repair the car. I "thought" this was a reputable place, however, I asked one of the guys at work to help me check the oil level today. I"m really paronoid about oil now. He checked it several times and everytime it showed a quart over the fill line, so now I'm questioning how reputable this place is. The garage where I used to have the oil changed and general maintenance work done has been sold and they mostly employee Spanish speaking guys. I don't like having to communicate through an interperter so I refuse to go back there.
I'm just very flustrated with and stressed by this situation. Without a doubt, this will have been an expensive lesson,(my car has absolutely no trade-in value and probably no resale value with this problem) but NOBODY will ever do anything to a car I own just because they "think" I'm a dumb blonde. I will, to the best of my ability, become more educated about these things. I've had this car for a long time and never had to question the service that was being performed - guess I've been lucky.
Pegg
sounds to me like a ,sticking valve ,, use a good fuel conditioner like PB blaster fuel injecter cleaner,or Amsoil injecter cleaner,for your oil situation,,first have filter and oil changed to a 5w-30 castrol,and on this site there is a product called Auto-Rx,purchace a dose and run for 3K to clean up things inside your engine,,,after this purchase Schaeffers 10-30 supreme 7000,again on this web is a execellent rep.,,use a good filter like Hastings ,Baldwin,or Wix,which can be purchased at a local auto part dist.,,, run this for 3-4 K dump and resume with Schaeffers and GOOD filter and I have a feeling all will be fine,,these Suburu engines are tough and long lasting
Tones,
The preventative maintenance involved a tune up with spark plugs, wires, fuel filter, 2 CV joints (one needed to be replaced), front and rear brakes, catalyic (spelling?) converters checked okay, transmission checked okay, timing belts and other belts replaced, thermostat (needed to be replaced) and water pump (it did not fail only made a "growling" sound) replaced and a gasket that was described to me as being the size of an oreo cookie when the water pump was replaced. During the course of the years I've owned the car, I've replaced the alternator,starter and radiator. Think that about sums it up. The CV joints have been the most reoccuring problem, but I"m told by other Subaru owners that's normal. And general maintenance - oil and filter changes and air filters - just the normal maintenance things. Overall I've been very satisfied with the perormance of this car. Oh, I did have the car repainted the original color - so it looks great- just sounds like it's coming apart.
I know how to pull the dip stick, wipe it and reinsert it to check the oil level, but right now I just need the reassurance that the level is okay and the guys at work don't mind helping when I ask.
The owners manuel doesn't recommend any oil thinner than the 10W30 - probably because it's a 15 year old car so right now I"m sticking with what the manufacture recommends - I think that's important. The ticking sound never goes away. As before, the car always had this ticking sound when I first cranked it in the morning, but would go away when the engine warmed, not it's a constant noise.
Hope that's the info you were asking for. Unfortunately or maybe not - I raised (a son - who doesn't live nearby) a computer genius instead of a mechanic......
Pegg
The preventative maintenance involved a tune up with spark plugs, wires, fuel filter, 2 CV joints (one needed to be replaced), front and rear brakes, catalyic (spelling?) converters checked okay, transmission checked okay, timing belts and other belts replaced, thermostat (needed to be replaced) and water pump (it did not fail only made a "growling" sound) replaced and a gasket that was described to me as being the size of an oreo cookie when the water pump was replaced. During the course of the years I've owned the car, I've replaced the alternator,starter and radiator. Think that about sums it up. The CV joints have been the most reoccuring problem, but I"m told by other Subaru owners that's normal. And general maintenance - oil and filter changes and air filters - just the normal maintenance things. Overall I've been very satisfied with the perormance of this car. Oh, I did have the car repainted the original color - so it looks great- just sounds like it's coming apart.
I know how to pull the dip stick, wipe it and reinsert it to check the oil level, but right now I just need the reassurance that the level is okay and the guys at work don't mind helping when I ask.
The owners manuel doesn't recommend any oil thinner than the 10W30 - probably because it's a 15 year old car so right now I"m sticking with what the manufacture recommends - I think that's important. The ticking sound never goes away. As before, the car always had this ticking sound when I first cranked it in the morning, but would go away when the engine warmed, not it's a constant noise.
Hope that's the info you were asking for. Unfortunately or maybe not - I raised (a son - who doesn't live nearby) a computer genius instead of a mechanic......
Pegg
Guys,
I really appreciate all your suggestions...I'm just not ready to give up on this car yet if it can be salvaged. It's been good dependable transportation for many years and that's all I care about.
I have one more question - remember you're talking to a real novice here. I've read about oil viscosity and typical properties but so much that I read I can't understand. Can somebody explain to me in simple terms and words that I can understand what this means: "cSt @ 40 degrees Centigrade 125" and "cSt @ 40 degrees Centigrade 62". Does this mean that an engine would have to work twice as hard to pump the first example than the second expample or am I totally off base in my understanding?
Thanks,
Pegg
I really appreciate all your suggestions...I'm just not ready to give up on this car yet if it can be salvaged. It's been good dependable transportation for many years and that's all I care about.
I have one more question - remember you're talking to a real novice here. I've read about oil viscosity and typical properties but so much that I read I can't understand. Can somebody explain to me in simple terms and words that I can understand what this means: "cSt @ 40 degrees Centigrade 125" and "cSt @ 40 degrees Centigrade 62". Does this mean that an engine would have to work twice as hard to pump the first example than the second expample or am I totally off base in my understanding?
Thanks,
Pegg
Did the dealership do the maintenance?
Sounds like what the Car Doctor used was MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil)? I think it is a kerosene based product touted to clean the engine. The only thing I know it does is thin the oil. It could cause the oil to read overfull if he added this after the oil change. Maybe someone else on the board knows more about the MMO and can give you better advice.
I know it sounds crazy, but I would have the oil changed again, back to Mobil 1 10W-30, to get the MMO out of the engine. You are probably fine using this oil by the way. Then I would put at least a couple thousand miles on the car before worrying about this ticking noise. I am thinking it will probably go away. I don't know how bad the noise is, but I think you stated that the car seemed to run fine. Noisy lifters are not unusual. I would wait and see if it gets worse before a rebuild.
Sounds like what the Car Doctor used was MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil)? I think it is a kerosene based product touted to clean the engine. The only thing I know it does is thin the oil. It could cause the oil to read overfull if he added this after the oil change. Maybe someone else on the board knows more about the MMO and can give you better advice.
I know it sounds crazy, but I would have the oil changed again, back to Mobil 1 10W-30, to get the MMO out of the engine. You are probably fine using this oil by the way. Then I would put at least a couple thousand miles on the car before worrying about this ticking noise. I am thinking it will probably go away. I don't know how bad the noise is, but I think you stated that the car seemed to run fine. Noisy lifters are not unusual. I would wait and see if it gets worse before a rebuild.
Tones and Brian Fix
The Subaru dealership has changed so much in this town that I never know where it is.
Most of the work was done at the garage that has been sold and now mostly employees the Spanish speaking guys. There was a really good mechanic there but he has moved on to another town. The rest was done at a place that seems to be reputable but they don't do the kind of work I need done now. I've printed your suggestions and I'll take them to the place Mark C. recommended at Carolina Beach and see what they say. In the meantime, I"ll try to find a place to get the oil changed that's close to where I work, but not the place I went before. Four oil changes in less than 45 days - why not. And yes, except for the constant ticking noise, the car seems to run fine. The oil pressure light never comes on after cranking and the temperature hand stays where it should and the tack seems to be in the normal range for the car. It just makes a tickig noise that it shouldn't. The guy at the Car Doctor told me I couldn't even drive the car another week while I decided what to do, that it would damage the camshaft or something like that and it really frightenend me.
Thanks for taking the time to respond and I sure hope you're right and the ticking will go away in time.
Pegg
The Subaru dealership has changed so much in this town that I never know where it is.
Most of the work was done at the garage that has been sold and now mostly employees the Spanish speaking guys. There was a really good mechanic there but he has moved on to another town. The rest was done at a place that seems to be reputable but they don't do the kind of work I need done now. I've printed your suggestions and I'll take them to the place Mark C. recommended at Carolina Beach and see what they say. In the meantime, I"ll try to find a place to get the oil changed that's close to where I work, but not the place I went before. Four oil changes in less than 45 days - why not. And yes, except for the constant ticking noise, the car seems to run fine. The oil pressure light never comes on after cranking and the temperature hand stays where it should and the tack seems to be in the normal range for the car. It just makes a tickig noise that it shouldn't. The guy at the Car Doctor told me I couldn't even drive the car another week while I decided what to do, that it would damage the camshaft or something like that and it really frightenend me.
Thanks for taking the time to respond and I sure hope you're right and the ticking will go away in time.
Pegg
Pegg, Take my advice and stay away from Car Doctor, especially if it's the one on Oleander Drive. Cruise down to the beach and see Ronnie, Tell him Mark Coleman said hello.He will tell you the truth, and he won't do anything without your approval. He's a great mechanic and as honest as the day is long.
CB has definitely gotten outta hand. When I was a kid, everything was dead after dark from the weekend after Labor Day until Azalea Festival weekend. When I left it was getting ridiculous. The only thing good that was left was the fact that the western side of the island was still protected and undeveloped.
Wonder how long that will last...
CB has definitely gotten outta hand. When I was a kid, everything was dead after dark from the weekend after Labor Day until Azalea Festival weekend. When I left it was getting ridiculous. The only thing good that was left was the fact that the western side of the island was still protected and undeveloped.
Wonder how long that will last...
How loud is the ticking sound? Is it just barely audible inside the car? Or do you have to turn the radio way up to drown it out?
My guess is that you have a sticking lifter. This can be caused by a varnish buildup. If this is the case, AutoRx can fix it. If you go to a mechanic, and he diagnosis a bad lifter, he will recommend replacement. Replacement is the obvious answer, but ARX may be an option the mechanic won't be familiar with.
If the noise isn't real loud, I would give AutoRx a try. You will need 2 bottles, which are about $25 each. And you will have to change your oil and filter about 4 times over the next 7000 miles or so. If you decide to use ARX, let us know and we will walk you through the procedure.
My guess is that you have a sticking lifter. This can be caused by a varnish buildup. If this is the case, AutoRx can fix it. If you go to a mechanic, and he diagnosis a bad lifter, he will recommend replacement. Replacement is the obvious answer, but ARX may be an option the mechanic won't be familiar with.
If the noise isn't real loud, I would give AutoRx a try. You will need 2 bottles, which are about $25 each. And you will have to change your oil and filter about 4 times over the next 7000 miles or so. If you decide to use ARX, let us know and we will walk you through the procedure.
Pegg, since the general consensus from the people that heard your "noise" is that it's a hydraulic lifter issue, I'll proceed down that line of analysis.
As other have mentioned, a sticking lifter may be caused by a varnish buildup, but with all the oil changes and the "flush", I would tend to think a varnish issue would have lessened, not have gotten worse.
I'm of the opinion that it's more likely some crud got into the lifter orifices not allowing a sufficient volume of oil to pump up the lifter, or, some crud got into the working surfaces of the lifter and caused it to stick in the compressed state or is not riding on the camshaft. This is one of the reasons a "radical flush" is to be avoided.
OK, then, what to do. Well, if you pulled into my garage right now, the first thing I'd do is check the oil pressure with a gauge. That would just eliminate a lot of potential issues from the get go. This should take no longer than a 1/2 hour, an hour at most.
Second, I'd see if I could isolate the problem lifter with a mechanics stethoscope. This would also insure the "ticking" noise isn't coming from something else.
Now the semi bad news. If you got crud into/around the lifter, even some of the highly recommended products, may or may NOT be able to dislodge it and free up the lifter. The lifter may also just be worn out, unlikely, but possible.
I'm not totally familiar with that engine design, but it may be the case that the lifter sits just underneath the cam cover and with a minimal of parts removal, it can be replaced in a couple of hours. Maybe one of the Subaru aficionados can advise.
In the meantime, if you have the proper oil pressure, some of the additive solutions may be pursued. The two recommended here are Lube Control and AutoRX. The sticky lifter won't hurt a great deal in the very short term, but it will eventually wear out at least the camshaft and the lifter and the repair will be much more expensive than just replacing the lifter.
Hope that helps. Good luck.
This is a good sign, but keep in mind that that the oil pressure indicator light comes on when the oil pressure goes below a set minimum, in some cases when the oil pressure is as low as 4 psi. Generally speaking the oil pressure should vary from 5-15psi at idle, to 45-85psi at high RPMs. There are specs for your particular car a mechanic should be able to look up. Low oil pressure may not allow a weak hydraulic lifter to "pump up" fully, so keep this in mind.
As other have mentioned, a sticking lifter may be caused by a varnish buildup, but with all the oil changes and the "flush", I would tend to think a varnish issue would have lessened, not have gotten worse.
I'm of the opinion that it's more likely some crud got into the lifter orifices not allowing a sufficient volume of oil to pump up the lifter, or, some crud got into the working surfaces of the lifter and caused it to stick in the compressed state or is not riding on the camshaft. This is one of the reasons a "radical flush" is to be avoided.
OK, then, what to do. Well, if you pulled into my garage right now, the first thing I'd do is check the oil pressure with a gauge. That would just eliminate a lot of potential issues from the get go. This should take no longer than a 1/2 hour, an hour at most.
Second, I'd see if I could isolate the problem lifter with a mechanics stethoscope. This would also insure the "ticking" noise isn't coming from something else.
Now the semi bad news. If you got crud into/around the lifter, even some of the highly recommended products, may or may NOT be able to dislodge it and free up the lifter. The lifter may also just be worn out, unlikely, but possible.
I'm not totally familiar with that engine design, but it may be the case that the lifter sits just underneath the cam cover and with a minimal of parts removal, it can be replaced in a couple of hours. Maybe one of the Subaru aficionados can advise.
In the meantime, if you have the proper oil pressure, some of the additive solutions may be pursued. The two recommended here are Lube Control and AutoRX. The sticky lifter won't hurt a great deal in the very short term, but it will eventually wear out at least the camshaft and the lifter and the repair will be much more expensive than just replacing the lifter.
Smart woman. Just keep in mind that with a quality synthetic like Mobil 1 the second number is the critical one to match, while the first number should be determined by the lowest temperature your engine will experience.
Hope that helps. Good luck.
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