need a H4 bulb for motorcycle

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Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Originally Posted By: JethroBodine
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum


And whatever you do, don't get suckered in by junk like PIAA.




Do you own a motorcycle?
Again, I suggest DanSternLighting.com for the dope on things like "blue headlights".


Ok the guy has a website. What makes him so special? He is a self proclaimed internet expert.(none of those around
lol.gif
) I have used the bulbs he claims "don't work" and they do actually work better than standard.

I'll say it again: I put a PIAA in my bike and they are really much brighter that the 55w one from the factory so it was pretty simple. I did also change the lens for the light bucket. The combination of the two increased my night sight range by about 80%.
 
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The problem with people who do not understand physics (or logic) is that it is futile to argue with them.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
The problem with people who do not understand physics (or logic) is that it is futile to argue with them.
You got it, facts, science, a guy with years of experience selling automotive lighting that he stands behind and that WORKS, dismissed with a wave of the hand. Note I didn't even SAY what Stern concludes about certain products, just that his info ought to be considered. Some, though, don't need to read anything to know what it says.
 
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Originally Posted By: JethroBodine
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Originally Posted By: JethroBodine
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum


And whatever you do, don't get suckered in by junk like PIAA.




Do you own a motorcycle?
Again, I suggest DanSternLighting.com for the dope on things like "blue headlights".


Ok the guy has a website. What makes him so special? He is a self proclaimed internet expert.(none of those around
lol.gif
) I have used the bulbs he claims "don't work" and they do actually work better than standard.

I'll say it again: I put a PIAA in my bike and they are really much brighter that the 55w one from the factory so it was pretty simple. I did also change the lens for the light bucket. The combination of the two increased my night sight range by about 80%.
Oncoming drivers think it's "much brighter" as well.
 
anyone heard about those Philips MOTO lights i linked VS normal xtravision ?

I'm going to be buying one of them this weekend.
 
There is an interesting alternative for H4 bulbs now. A HID replacement that translates in-out for high-low. On low, only a small hole allows light out and the stock cutoff is retained. On high, the full hid is available instantly.

They are not terribly expensive and work exceptionally well in motorcycles.

The hid bulb is roughly 3300 lumens, vs 1100 lumens for a healthy H4. The design of this new hid prevents excess light from blinding others with its sharp cutoff.

$(KGrHqRHJFEFHPo3un1FBR6G0in!(!~~60_3.JPG
 
Am I missing something here? Isn't this the most hated ricer conversion bulb? The problem is not the only shielding but the location of the actually filament. You can easily compare the bulb picture you posted to any H4 lamp and see that HID arc will not be in the same place as the H4 filament and that is what causes all the scatter.

I would be glad to be proven wrong as I really want to swap H4 in my vehicles with the HID's but I know how stupid and and inconsiderate that would be.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Am I missing something here? Isn't this the most hated ricer conversion bulb? The problem is not the only shielding but the location of the actually filament. You can easily compare the bulb picture you posted to any H4 lamp and see that HID arc will not be in the same place as the H4 filament and that is what causes all the scatter.

I would be glad to be proven wrong as I really want to swap H4 in my vehicles with the HID's but I know how stupid and and inconsiderate that would be.
You are exactly right about that.
 
My problem is that Cujet is one of the highly respected and sensible poster here; I believe he maintains (flies) fleet of private planes and has experience with high performance lighting. I am hoping he will shed more light on it (pardon the pun) It would be great if the bulb he showed does not lead to glare.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Am I missing something here? Isn't this the most hated ricer conversion bulb? The problem is not the only shielding but the location of the actually filament. You can easily compare the bulb picture you posted to any H4 lamp and see that HID arc will not be in the same place as the H4 filament and that is what causes all the scatter.

I would be glad to be proven wrong as I really want to swap H4 in my vehicles with the HID's but I know how stupid and and inconsiderate that would be.


I see what you are saying. However, the better H4 HID replacements are exactly right as far as focus and cutoff are concerned. They are very heavily shielded, even with the high beam.


The HID is brighter, for sure. But compare a single well shielded and properly aimed 2800 lumen (the proper 4300k flavors are often slightly lower output) HID to the typical motorcycle's 2 closely spaced H4 halogens at 1100 lumens each and the real world light output is very acceptable.

Not at all the awful, unshielded and improper situations you describe.
 
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Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Originally Posted By: JethroBodine
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum


And whatever you do, don't get suckered in by junk like PIAA.




Do you own a motorcycle?
Again, I suggest DanSternLighting.com for the dope on things like "blue headlights".


Well I read the Dan Stern and he didn't really offer any proof other than his opinion. I tried several bulb/lens combinations in my Triumph and the PIAA Xtreme white halogen bulb with a higher output lens was the best "bolt on" answer to my lighting needs. I did have the wife do the oncoming lane test and while the Xtreme bulb does have a blue tip the light is really white and not blue. I started the bike and put on the headlight/high beam and drove up to it myself at dusk and it is not really offensive. But I travel an unlit rural road to get to my development and the combination I have is much much better. Sorry if it flies in the face if your "expert" but it is better and tested for my application.

The bulb I use is here: http://www.piaa.com/store/p/159-H4-XTreme-White-Plus-Single-Halogen-Bulb.aspx

I also used the Kury Ice headlight lens which helps a lot as well.

http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/kuryak...ls/part/KY-2147

The combination of these two parts allowed me to use the stock headlight bucket, required no extra wiring and was complete in one hour. So whether Mr. Stern thinks my light isn't brighter doesn't matter because....well it really is.
 
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Bowl, I've been using the Philips MotoVision bulbs for a couple of years. They work well. They put an orange glow in the lower half of the reflector which might catch the attention of a driver. They put out more light with standard heat, so the life will be shorter than a standard H4 bulb.

The wattage is the electrical consumption. It exactly relates to the heat generated and only very roughly relates to the light output. Long life or vibration resistant bulbs put out less light due to their stronger filament.

Bulbs put out more light by these techniques:
--More precise (costlier) placement of the filament in the optical center of the reflector
--Better (costlier) gases in the glass bulb
--Thinner filament that burns hotter but dies sooner
Note that the bulb makers advertising of +30% more light output or +50% or +anything is more marketing puffery than real light on the pavement to help you. Yes, somewhat brighter and somewhat shorter bulb life.

Bad ways to look brighter:
--Directing more light to the center of the beam pattern and robbing light from the sides...good for marketing, bad for riding
--Blue tint on the bulb...actually makes things harder to see
--Higher wattage may cause socket or wiring to melt


Good looking SV.
 
Just put some Osram nightracer's on my bike and really like them.

One thing that helps most bikes is to install a relay for the headlight circuit. The stock wiring is on the small side most of the time. I've also done this with the ignition coil circuit to get better voltage to the coils.
 
I forgot to add above that if you install a relay in a fuel injected bike make sure it has a protection diode inside (or add one yourself).... you can have some problems with counter emf voltages messing with the ecu.

It will go acrossed the wires (parallel) that turn the relay on and off.
 
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