Need 3/8" Torque Wrench Recommendations

[Dwight_Frye]

I have a 1/2 drive torque wrench that I use for tightening wheel lug nuts, etc. but would like to buy a 3/8" click-type torque wrench with a lower range of values, say 10-50 ft lbs. or so(or the metric equivalent)for tightening oil drain plugs and other light jobs.
Can anyone recommend a decent one for a non-professional mechanic for under $50 ? Thanks

 

[Herz]

Craftsman, usually about 29.99 great for a home mechanic or DIY.

 

[tomcat27]

I'm very happy with my craftsman

 

[DieselTech]

I assume this would be for at home use? If so craftsman will be just fine.

 

[Steve S]

Home use Craftsman, work use Snapon.

 

[Chris142]

S-K,Proto,Mac, etc. Check with pawn shops and Craigslist.

 

[bdcardinal]

i have a MATCO digital 3/8 and a Craftsman click 3/8, both are good tools, although the MATCO ones tends to get saved for more mission critical fasteners.

 

[willix]

You want to be sure get one that the range in inch lbs. will go low enough. I found the cheaper TQ wenches don't go below 20"lb. and higher. I do like my electronic snap on but I don't use it that much and find the batteries run down when I take it out to use. It was $250, also a negative.

 

[ksJoe]

Here is new-old-stock CDI torque wrenches for $34. They're a little lighter than you asked for, but I've bought several from this seller and have been very pleased.

It is the same as this wrench, which is $125.

They also say IBM on them - I assume IBM OEM'd them from CDI for something big they sell that requires assembly. CDI is owned by snap-on, so these are very nice wrenches.

I bought one for myself when they were $24/free shipping. Then posted here and they sold out within a few hours due to BITOG'ers (the listing had been up a while without any sales). They then relisted, and my order came with a 40% coupon code, so I bought 5 more and sold them on craigslist for $75 each.

If you order two, submit an offer for 40% off and put "DSR2008" in the terms field. (the coupon code for orders over 50)

 

[Dwight_Frye]

Well I went out this weekend and checked a few retailers and ended up with this one from my local AutoZone chain store:

http://greatnecktools.com/product_info.php/pName/38-inch-micrometer-torque-wrench

It was only $22.99 but since my main requirement was for light duty like torquing the oil drain plug on my car I didn't want to spend big bucks for a Snap On, S&K or Husky. The calibration though is in inch lbs. and metric. The minimum setting is 120 inch lbs (10 ft. lbs). Some of the other ones I looked at had a minimum setting of 20 ft. lbs and I figured I wouldn't get good accuracy at the 25-28 ft. lbs. needed for the oil drain plug. It's got a lifetime replacement warranty so should be fine for what I need.

 

[doitmyself]

Dwight, the useable range of nearly all torque wrenches is from 20% of scale to full scale. That is where they are calibrated to be accurate (+/- 3 to 4%). For instance, a 100 ft. lb. wrench is calibrated to be accurate from 20 to 100 ft. lbs., BUT its scale markings might go down to 10 Ft. lbs.. My point is, don't rely on what the lowest scale marking is. Rely on 20% of the full scale as its lowest useable point.

Someone gave me a 150 ft. lb. Great Neck torque wrench 5 years ago and it still works fine and tests well against my better workplace wrenches.

Store them at the lowest scale marking and exercise it before use. Use it cautiously. Sometimes they fail.

 

[Dwight_Frye]

Thanks doitmyself. The wrench's range is 120-960 inch lbs so 20% of max would be 192 inch lbs or 16 ft. lbs. as the minimum. For example, the torque spec for my oil drain plug is 22-29 ft lbs. so if I set the wrench for 25 ft. lbs and it's accurate to 4% (about 1 ft. lb. at that range) I should be pretty confident that it's torqued right.
I know about storing it with the adjustment cranked back to zero and twisting the scale up and back a couple of times after it hasn't been used for a while before setting the limit. I have a similar type in a 1/2" drive with a wider range that I have used for years with no problems and as long as I don't abuse the thing I think it will perform as required.

 

[benjamming]

Originally Posted By: Dwight_Frye
[snip]and twisting the scale up and back a couple of times after it hasn't been used for a while before setting the limit.


What is the purpose of this? Which TW mfg recommend this? I don't recall reading this before. What is defined as 'a while' - month would be my guess.

 

[doitmyself]

Originally Posted By: benjamming
Originally Posted By: Dwight_Frye
[snip]and twisting the scale up and back a couple of times after it hasn't been used for a while before setting the limit.


What is the purpose of this? Which TW mfg recommend this? I don't recall reading this before. What is defined as 'a while' - month would be my guess.


Benjamming, you are a stickler for the truth.....good for you, and it keeps us on our toes.

I was surprised to NOT find the idea of "exercise your micrometer torque wrench" at any of the major mfg. sites.

I was taught that exercising your wrench was done to redistribute the internal lube to improve accuracy, as described at this site:

http://www.wanderingtrail.com/Mechanical/torque_wrenches.htm

It involves using your wrench a few times, not just twisting the spring handle up and down.

It is also mentioned as "pre-loading" the wrench on this CDI repair/calibration manual near the bottom of page 4 and 5 (note this is for calibration purposes, not general use).

http://www.cditorque.com/RepairManuals/ClickWrenchRepair.pdf

Am I wrong about this practice of exercising your wrench to distribute the lubricant after "long" storage?

Should I maybe be using a leash instead?????

IMO, exercising your wrench is a good idea to insure your wrench is functioning before you twist off a fastener on an expensive application.


Finally, I did find one site that considers "exercising" as turning the handle up and down...go figure:

"The time to release the pressure on the spring is when you've made your last torque check. It's always good to "exercise" the torque wrench before putting it away. Move the torque setting through its full range of motion, then set it back to zero. As with all metal tools, store the wrench in a dry place."

The voice of the internet "experts:
http://ecmweb.com/mag/electric_torque_wrenches_critical/

 

[bigbird_1]

Originally Posted By: doitmyself

Am I wrong about this practice of exercising your wrench to distribute the lubricant after "long" storage?


Not at all. I do the same with my 3 torque wrenches.

 

[benjamming]

Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Originally Posted By: benjamming
Originally Posted By: Dwight_Frye
[snip]and twisting the scale up and back a couple of times after it hasn't been used for a while before setting the limit.


What is the purpose of this? Which TW mfg recommend this? I don't recall reading this before. What is defined as 'a while' - month would be my guess.


It is also mentioned as "pre-loading" the wrench on this CDI repair/calibration manual near the bottom of page 4 and 5 (note this is for calibration purposes, not general use).

http://www.cditorque.com/RepairManuals/ClickWrenchRepair.pdf


"ASME B107.14M
1. Preload the wrench by setting the wrench at 50% of full scale and operating three
times in the direction of the test."

Thank you for that link. Does that also apply to split-beam torque wrenches like those from Precision Instruments? If so, why since you don't have to reset them to zero after use? Or, should you really reset them to zero as well for maximum performance (accuracy)?

Now, what is "long" storage doesn't really matter I guess?

 

[doitmyself]

Micrometer wrenches have a coil spring in them that can take a "set" (memory/deformation) if stored under tension, thus the reason to store them at their lowest setting.

To my knowledge, the PI split beams don't have the coil spring and their mechanism won't deform (set), therefore leave them at any setting according to their manual/site.

The reason to exercise is to 1)distribute the internal lube and 2) IMO, to make sure the mechanism is working. This would apply to the PI, I think. My first link above says " First, it will set internal components so that when force is applied, torque begins immediately with no internal settling. Second, it distributes lubrication to moving internal parts."


"Long"?.... Weekly use, don't bother. Stored for a month or two....probably yes, take them for a walk, leashed of course.

I have no idea about twisting the handle up and down on micrometer styles. Maybe to seat everything together???? Take up minute slack?

FYI, I LOVE my PI's at work. I have talked to techs. at both CDI and PI. They are excellent. Someone should call them, hint,hint.

 

[benjamming]

I talked with a manager at Precision Instrument today. Twisting the handle up & down doesn't do anything beneficial since it's the clicker that needs the oil. They exercise their micrometer TW 10 times prior to checking accuracy. This is good SOP. However, if you are using it every week or even every month, you probably won't notice any detrimental affects from not exercising prior to use since it is being exercised enough already to keep the lube circulated.

The split beam doesn't need exercising & is not affected by leaving it "set". There is no measurable or repeatable difference in returning it to 0 or with exercising it since the mechanism is completely different.

ASME B107.14M-2004 Hand Torque Tools (Mechanical) is the standard to reference if anyone has access to those for free; otherwise it is $30. It is copyrighted so can't be posted or linked up in any case.

I had spoken with the folks out at CDI before, but not PI. Both instances have been a pleasure.