Napa Gold air filter got wet, should it be replaced?

[Delta1]

I got caught in a massive down pour, drove through some standing water at a walking speed that was maybe a foot deep, and the motor stalled.....

The Napa Gold air filter ( I'm assuming it's paper) got totally soaked, as did the MAF, so of course the car won't turn on anymore.

Can I just dry the air filter out and put it back in the car? It's a big honking unit in a steel cage, just 2000 km on it.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Rand]

So you hydro-Stalled your engine but you are most worried about an air filter?

IF it dries out and isn't deformed its probably useable but I'd replace it.

 

[fantastic]

Yeah, sure, just use a hair dryer & dust it off it'll be just like new again.
Seriously, get a new filter & trash the water logged one.

 

[Delta1]

So you hydro-Stalled your engine but you are most worried about an air filter?

IF it dries out and isn't deformed its probably useable but I'd replace it.

Oh I am worried about the whole darn thing, but am pretty sure the motor is fine.
It would restart, idle then just die, so I doubt that the motor took in any water, I shut it down once it started to shudder, probably from the wet MAF sensor.

 

[oldhp]

Get some MAF cleaner with your "new" air filter and be done with it. You might also want to check the spark plug boots / wires for water.

 

[joekingcorvette]

Yes I would get a new filter. You might have more problems than you are aware of though. Water and vehicles don't mix very well.

 

[ejes]

Personally, I would do an oil and oil filter change immediately as well just to be safe. But that's just me.

 

[Delta1]

Personally, I would do an oil and oil filter change immediately as well just to be safe. But that's just me.

Yes, that's what I did in the end. Not because any water got into the crankcase, but more because it ran super rich for a while the ECU tried to figure out what the heck was going on (PO172) and the oil smelt very gassy once it was up and running.

 

[Delta1]

Yes I would get a new filter. You might have more problems than you are aware of though. Water and vehicles don't mix very well.

Yes for sure. It is up and running now, but it is a bit jerky at parking lot speeds, not sure what is going on there.....time will tell!

The compression was good at 205 even on every pot, changed the MAF, installed new plugs and changed on the oil. No codes since.

 

[ejes]

Yes for sure. It is up and running now, but it is a bit jerky at parking lot speeds, not sure what is going on there.....time will tell!

The compression was good at 205 even on every pot, changed the MAF, installed new plugs and changed on the oil. No codes since.

Did you replace with a OEM MAF? If not, that could be the problem. Often aftermarket MAF's just don't play well with the computer and still not throw a code.

 

[TomYoung]

I would hold onto the original MAF, which I would think would dry out and be fine. Definitely would replace the air filter. Hope it "comes around" (as VGG Derek would say) after you run it a while.

 

[Delta1]

Did you replace with a OEM MAF? If not, that could be the problem. Often aftermarket MAF's just don't play well with the computer and still not throw a code.

Yeah I had that thought! I'll see if things clear up in the next week or so, and I also still have the original MAF to plug back in as well.

 

[Delta1]

I would hold onto the original MAF, which I would think would dry out and be fine. Definitely would replace the air filter. Hope it "comes around" (as VGG Derek would say) after you run it a while.

Yep, new air filter . Upon closer inspection the once water soaked air filter element was all distorted and wavey.

 

[Delta1]

Did you replace with a OEM MAF? If not, that could be the problem. Often aftermarket MAF's just don't play well with the computer and still not throw a code.

So it turned out you were right: my car did not like the new aftermarket MAF sensor. I reinstalled the original MAF after giving it a good cleaning and it runs great again at all speeds! Too bad the $120 MAF sensor I bought is of course non refundable

 

[dogememe]

So it turned out you were right: my car did not like the new aftermarket MAF sensor. I reinstalled the original MAF after giving it a good cleaning and it runs great again at all speeds! Too bad the $120 MAF sensor I bought is of course non refundable

Nonrefundable? Does it not have a warranty? If it's defective, you should be able to return it...

 

[Delta1]

Nonrefundable? Does it not have a warranty? If it's defective, you should be able to return it...

Good point. I was just thinking about the sticker on the bag the sensor came in that read 'no refunds once seal is broken', but since the part did not work as advertised, (I mean it did make the car run 85% ok, but still) I might be able to make a case for getting my monies back.

 

[Delta1]

So I'm not done yet: With the old OEM MAF sensor that got wet, the car is better to drive, but then the car won't go into DFCO and throws a PO172 code. With the aftermarket MAF it's harder to drive smoothly at low speeds but no codes and DFCO works as it should.
Looks like I'm off to the dealer to buy an OEM MAF, but at least I can drive the car for now

 

[ejes]

That has to do with the fuel injection and emission systems. You might get lucky with replacing parts, but it really sounds to me like you got a lot more wet than you might think you did. Parts replacement trying to track a problem with this can get very frustrating and expensive. This is just a personal opinion, but those simple codes are just to give you an idea of where the problem is. Sort of like, "oh fuel injector problem code" and you go look and it is unplugged or something obvious. I think you might be money ahead getting a diagnostic with real time data to see if injectors just need flushed out and cleaned, or if the computer is malfunctioning, etc.

 

[ejes]

Also, there are some pretty good YT videos on how to test a MAF with a multimeter if you have one. If not they are pretty cheap.

 

[Delta1]

That has to do with the fuel injection and emission systems. You might get lucky with replacing parts, but it really sounds to me like you got a lot more wet than you might think you did. Parts replacement trying to track a problem with this can get very frustrating and expensive. This is just a personal opinion, but those simple codes are just to give you an idea of where the problem is. Sort of like, "oh fuel injector problem code" and you go look and it is unplugged or something obvious. I think you might be money ahead getting a diagnostic with real time data to see if injectors just need flushed out and cleaned, or if the computer is malfunctioning, etc.

Yes, getting a real time engine diagnostic is on my list for sure, will post the results/