4wd
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Amazing what they survive … BiL drove a 5.7L GM … checked oil and 3 quarts low …
My Suv had a heart attack, too much Bacon? Help!
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4wd
$50 site donor 2026
Might have to run the hybrid formula …
No UOA yet..
(I shorten the quotes to ease reading)
Originally Posted By: tig1
I don't know if this has been posted or not, but here is 3 other videos posted by the OP only posted 2 days earlier than the others.
Tig1. I am a new uploader to youtube. I did it cause the car forum I am in has file size restrictions/hard to upload. etc. If you look over there you can see My problems started mid Jan. Not planning to be a youtube star anytime soon. Also The dates I recorded is not the same as I uploaded or turn the video on for viewing (I am still learning the controls of youtube)
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
That stuff is nasty in the 1st video where he's got the big spoon. The cam lobes don't look too bad in the 3rd video considering this engine probably didn't get adequate oil flow due to the oil pickup screen being clogged with the slime.
If this is a hoax it's the most elaborate one I've seen to date. I don't think it is, but it's definitely a mystery on what caused this slime in the first place.
I did not expect zero flow, but after dropping the pan, I don't see how it had any with a cold engine. After it warms it I imagine some flow. (I expect still some blockage on a warm engine )
Originally Posted By: Linctex
I hope you stopped driving the vehicle/engine IMMEDIATELY after taking this video!!!!
I did not know how bad it was until I drained it... I saw it was thick from the tube(when I check the engine was hot) So I ran the car until it reached temps before draining. =(
Picture of first oil flush.Good oil drain off
I know it is hard to believe as this is prob the worst nightmare of everyone in this forum. I would be skeptical too if I saw this on the net.
This is the shiny bits in the oil that scares me..
Afraid what ever flush I do will loosen the bits and clog elsewhere.
Pic of my coolant drained from radiator. Pink toyota long life.
(I shorten the quotes to ease reading)
Originally Posted By: tig1
I don't know if this has been posted or not, but here is 3 other videos posted by the OP only posted 2 days earlier than the others.
Tig1. I am a new uploader to youtube. I did it cause the car forum I am in has file size restrictions/hard to upload. etc. If you look over there you can see My problems started mid Jan. Not planning to be a youtube star anytime soon. Also The dates I recorded is not the same as I uploaded or turn the video on for viewing (I am still learning the controls of youtube)
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
That stuff is nasty in the 1st video where he's got the big spoon. The cam lobes don't look too bad in the 3rd video considering this engine probably didn't get adequate oil flow due to the oil pickup screen being clogged with the slime.
If this is a hoax it's the most elaborate one I've seen to date. I don't think it is, but it's definitely a mystery on what caused this slime in the first place.
I did not expect zero flow, but after dropping the pan, I don't see how it had any with a cold engine. After it warms it I imagine some flow. (I expect still some blockage on a warm engine )
Originally Posted By: Linctex
I hope you stopped driving the vehicle/engine IMMEDIATELY after taking this video!!!!
I did not know how bad it was until I drained it... I saw it was thick from the tube(when I check the engine was hot) So I ran the car until it reached temps before draining. =(
Picture of first oil flush.Good oil drain off
I know it is hard to believe as this is prob the worst nightmare of everyone in this forum. I would be skeptical too if I saw this on the net.
This is the shiny bits in the oil that scares me..
Afraid what ever flush I do will loosen the bits and clog elsewhere.
Pic of my coolant drained from radiator. Pink toyota long life.
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Chunks stuck in new oil filter in first oil flush
Oil pick up after first flush.
The majority of oil I got out of tube, still clogged. (heating and picking, shaking)
After cleaning, picking soaking in mineral spirits. Place in ultrasonic cleaner with the heating on (cycle about 10x 8min sessions-limit by HF machine) Looks good but I can still see stuff (chunks behind the screen)
Oil pick up after first flush.
The majority of oil I got out of tube, still clogged. (heating and picking, shaking)
After cleaning, picking soaking in mineral spirits. Place in ultrasonic cleaner with the heating on (cycle about 10x 8min sessions-limit by HF machine) Looks good but I can still see stuff (chunks behind the screen)
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Have you tried hitting it with brake kleen? Curious what successfully dissolves it, as another poster touched on.
If you have parts off the engine, go directly to Paint & Varnish remover. Stop fiddling around. Just nuke the gunk ...
Originally Posted By: GLG1
If This is a M1 mistake It would affect an entire lot of oil, they're marked with a lot code. Go back to where ever you bought the oil and ask if there have been any customer complaint of similar Issues with their oil, Same w/ M1 see if they have gotten any complaints.
There are only 3 scenarios: 1) someone sabotaged the oil at the store. 2) the previous owner was using additives and/or neglected maintenance and there was already sludge in the engine.
3) A chemical reaction from a tiny coolant leak mixed with Ethanol fuel and/or oil additives ( #3 sheer speculation on my part)
Regardless your engine is scrap, try to get someone to pay for it Walmart or M1 If not look for a wrecked Suv in a scrap yard and swap engines. Used engines cost around $900-$2500 depending on the model car and engine type.
Yeah I have high hopes of Walmart customer service .
not.. I was surprise that the Mobil hot line even led to actual person on the other end(even tho they contract it out) Good thing is that I still have the bottle with the lot number. and receipt (online WM order) It was in April if that matters. Crossing my fingers that other people has the same problem just so I am not in it alone. ( part of my decision to post here. )
1) I don't think it is likely but I will check the top when I get home, This is not cross my mind until you guys mention it.
2)That was too long ago.. I bought the car in 2013 and ~40k miles ago.
3)I have a container with the oil+ coolant, and Oil+Water (I bought two bottles of it at the time, one turn into sludge and now the second is my testing oil)
So far they have turn white.. I still have to figure out a test rig that stimulate the heat and agitation of the oil.
If This is a M1 mistake It would affect an entire lot of oil, they're marked with a lot code. Go back to where ever you bought the oil and ask if there have been any customer complaint of similar Issues with their oil, Same w/ M1 see if they have gotten any complaints.
There are only 3 scenarios: 1) someone sabotaged the oil at the store. 2) the previous owner was using additives and/or neglected maintenance and there was already sludge in the engine.
3) A chemical reaction from a tiny coolant leak mixed with Ethanol fuel and/or oil additives ( #3 sheer speculation on my part)
Regardless your engine is scrap, try to get someone to pay for it Walmart or M1 If not look for a wrecked Suv in a scrap yard and swap engines. Used engines cost around $900-$2500 depending on the model car and engine type.
Yeah I have high hopes of Walmart customer service .
1) I don't think it is likely but I will check the top when I get home, This is not cross my mind until you guys mention it.
2)That was too long ago.. I bought the car in 2013 and ~40k miles ago.
3)I have a container with the oil+ coolant, and Oil+Water (I bought two bottles of it at the time, one turn into sludge and now the second is my testing oil)
So far they have turn white.. I still have to figure out a test rig that stimulate the heat and agitation of the oil.
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Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Have you tried hitting it with brake kleen? Curious what successfully dissolves it, as another poster touched on.
Not yet.. I will try.
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
If you have parts off the engine, go directly to Paint & Varnish remover. Stop fiddling around. Just nuke the gunk ...
eek! Sounds harsh! I will see if I have any around and create another continer for it.. I am not confident enough to remove the valve trains. Plus getting the rear 3 cylinders is very hard.
I hate fiddling but I am currently waiting on UOA, then Mechanic analysis...
Good thing is I have borrowed a old car from papa to get around in.. bad thing is that car smells like tiger balm...
Have you tried hitting it with brake kleen? Curious what successfully dissolves it, as another poster touched on.
Not yet.. I will try.
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
If you have parts off the engine, go directly to Paint & Varnish remover. Stop fiddling around. Just nuke the gunk ...
eek! Sounds harsh! I will see if I have any around and create another continer for it.. I am not confident enough to remove the valve trains. Plus getting the rear 3 cylinders is very hard.
I hate fiddling but I am currently waiting on UOA, then Mechanic analysis...
Good thing is I have borrowed a old car from papa to get around in.. bad thing is that car smells like tiger balm...
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Originally Posted By: deven
Get a bottle of BG EPR, dump it in with the oil. Go for a 1/2 hour drive and maybe even idle it for a good 15 minutes after and do an oil change. EPR is great at fixing stuck rings and such so this may help your engine overall.
Is there a BM that sells this stuff? Amazon is showing Monday is earliest. Not showing online at AZ or AAP.
Get a bottle of BG EPR, dump it in with the oil. Go for a 1/2 hour drive and maybe even idle it for a good 15 minutes after and do an oil change. EPR is great at fixing stuck rings and such so this may help your engine overall.
Is there a BM that sells this stuff? Amazon is showing Monday is earliest. Not showing online at AZ or AAP.
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
If you have parts off the engine, go directly to Paint & Varnish remover. Stop fiddling around. Just nuke the gunk ...
Also If I had the engine apart, I think I would do this.. DIY Coolest engine cleaning...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=URo31_aT...DN88hzU7ymX370R
If you have parts off the engine, go directly to Paint & Varnish remover. Stop fiddling around. Just nuke the gunk ...
Also If I had the engine apart, I think I would do this.. DIY Coolest engine cleaning...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=URo31_aT...DN88hzU7ymX370R
Originally Posted By: mightymousetech
Originally Posted By: bluesubie
The user name of the year goes to Jooksing!!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jook-sing
Jook-sing or zuk-sing (竹升) is a Cantonese term for an overseas Chinese person who was born in a Western environment and/or a Chinese person who more readily or strongly identifies with Western culture than traditional Chinese culture.
it a derogatory term that old Chinese guys, mostly from toishan , called Chinese outside of Asia that rode the fine line between chinese and western. jook means bamboo and a bamboo is open on both ends, thus you are open to both worlds
Originally Posted By: bluesubie
The user name of the year goes to Jooksing!!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jook-sing
Jook-sing or zuk-sing (竹升) is a Cantonese term for an overseas Chinese person who was born in a Western environment and/or a Chinese person who more readily or strongly identifies with Western culture than traditional Chinese culture.
it a derogatory term that old Chinese guys, mostly from toishan , called Chinese outside of Asia that rode the fine line between chinese and western. jook means bamboo and a bamboo is open on both ends, thus you are open to both worlds
Same here, that was my first thought also.
ya fraud oil returns are 100% possible and do happen more times than we think. It being Chicago who knows what that [censored] REALLY is lol.
A story of mine, When I returned a jug of never used motor oil in Los Angles the lady @ Walmart opened the cap to check the seal and said they had people return jugs filled with vegetable oil
[censored] when I worked at Target as my HS job, I was in customer service one day and some idiot guy tried to return a $$$ Dyson vac nicely sealed like to appear never opened, I opened the box was filled with bricks guy ran out FAST before I could call security on him.
Dave
A story of mine, When I returned a jug of never used motor oil in Los Angles the lady @ Walmart opened the cap to check the seal and said they had people return jugs filled with vegetable oil
[censored] when I worked at Target as my HS job, I was in customer service one day and some idiot guy tried to return a $$$ Dyson vac nicely sealed like to appear never opened, I opened the box was filled with bricks guy ran out FAST before I could call security on him.
Dave
Originally Posted By: PimTac
As I watched the two videos my first thought was that it looked like Varathane.
It does, it looks like the goop that sits at the bottom of the can if it is left long enough and unshaken. It would have really smelled pouring it into the engine though. It is a lot more money than engine oil so the odds of someone swapping that for motor oil and returning it would be really low. If the OP didn't smell it pouring it in that would be amazing too.
As I watched the two videos my first thought was that it looked like Varathane.
It does, it looks like the goop that sits at the bottom of the can if it is left long enough and unshaken. It would have really smelled pouring it into the engine though. It is a lot more money than engine oil so the odds of someone swapping that for motor oil and returning it would be really low. If the OP didn't smell it pouring it in that would be amazing too.
Originally Posted By: Jooksing
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
If you have parts off the engine, go directly to Paint & Varnish remover. Stop fiddling around. Just nuke the gunk ...
eek! Sounds harsh! I will see if I have any around and create another container for it.. I am not confident enough to remove the valve trains. Plus getting the rear 3 cylinders is very hard.
I have used Paint & Varnish Remover (PVR) to get stuck lifters out of a Chevy V8 with lots of miles/varnish. But I was not talking about the engine itself, just things like the oil pick-up tube, pan, covers, etc. Things you have already had out. The pick-up tube being the prime candidate.
Anytime you have oil related debris that will not come easily, PVR is the natural easy way out. It's only harsh if you don't get it all out and neutralized (it's a base - caustic solution). Oil is base too. That's what TBN is for, to neutralize accumulated acids from by-products of combustion. Your engine is used to base chemistry, just not with aqueous chemistry...
Does gasoline cut it?
You could just pull the valve covers and glup some nice PVR on all exposed parts and wash down with gasoline and let drain out into a pan or bucket. Then wash down with diesel and soft brush before re-assembling and using oil, etc. Just get the gunk off.
We do not know if it will continue to harden with time and heat, but it prolly will ... As long as it's gunk and semi-soft, not too much damage. Once it gets hard, who knows ...
If this engine can be made to run reliably (?), you are not going to change it. Put in some elbow grease and clean it up and see if it can be saved? You might have to put rod and main bearings in it, but many parts may have survived fine. Just gotta do the work and find out ...
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
If you have parts off the engine, go directly to Paint & Varnish remover. Stop fiddling around. Just nuke the gunk ...
eek! Sounds harsh! I will see if I have any around and create another container for it.. I am not confident enough to remove the valve trains. Plus getting the rear 3 cylinders is very hard.
I have used Paint & Varnish Remover (PVR) to get stuck lifters out of a Chevy V8 with lots of miles/varnish. But I was not talking about the engine itself, just things like the oil pick-up tube, pan, covers, etc. Things you have already had out. The pick-up tube being the prime candidate.
Anytime you have oil related debris that will not come easily, PVR is the natural easy way out. It's only harsh if you don't get it all out and neutralized (it's a base - caustic solution). Oil is base too. That's what TBN is for, to neutralize accumulated acids from by-products of combustion. Your engine is used to base chemistry, just not with aqueous chemistry...
Does gasoline cut it?
You could just pull the valve covers and glup some nice PVR on all exposed parts and wash down with gasoline and let drain out into a pan or bucket. Then wash down with diesel and soft brush before re-assembling and using oil, etc. Just get the gunk off.
We do not know if it will continue to harden with time and heat, but it prolly will ... As long as it's gunk and semi-soft, not too much damage. Once it gets hard, who knows ...
If this engine can be made to run reliably (?), you are not going to change it. Put in some elbow grease and clean it up and see if it can be saved? You might have to put rod and main bearings in it, but many parts may have survived fine. Just gotta do the work and find out ...
If Mobil 1 is willing pick up the tab I would obviously let that run through its course.
If I try to flush myself I was thinking of building a cold/warm engine flush by a large tub on the bottom and with a pump and hose(maybe an liquid warming element too) to shower the engine to wash the bits..
I was also considering a running 10 min diesel/oil or the BG product mentioned. then oil change, repeat several times. Then have a super low OCI.
I would open the cover up again and take a look at the progress during one of the intervals and send the oil for UOA
Doing work myself is very hard due to the back 3 cylinders are buried deep into the bay. Need to remove the wipers, etc and then the throttle body and intake manifold..a billion tubes.. I would need to replace $50-70 worth of seals and gaskets as well. It is soo stupid that all this work to get to one side of the engine including the PCV valve. I might as well change the spark plugs too!
first video shows all the plastics/wipers to remove....
https://youtu.be/ZC2QhqAF9-k?t=109
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kploK3wDRBg&list=PLLNAXEfF_zweR3bhaEm509uF6OKQPSTue
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jw4CeRg3ZEI
If I try to flush myself I was thinking of building a cold/warm engine flush by a large tub on the bottom and with a pump and hose(maybe an liquid warming element too) to shower the engine to wash the bits..
I was also considering a running 10 min diesel/oil or the BG product mentioned. then oil change, repeat several times. Then have a super low OCI.
I would open the cover up again and take a look at the progress during one of the intervals and send the oil for UOA
Doing work myself is very hard due to the back 3 cylinders are buried deep into the bay. Need to remove the wipers, etc and then the throttle body and intake manifold..a billion tubes.. I would need to replace $50-70 worth of seals and gaskets as well. It is soo stupid that all this work to get to one side of the engine including the PCV valve. I might as well change the spark plugs too!
first video shows all the plastics/wipers to remove....
https://youtu.be/ZC2QhqAF9-k?t=109
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kploK3wDRBg&list=PLLNAXEfF_zweR3bhaEm509uF6OKQPSTue
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jw4CeRg3ZEI
Last edited:
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: Jooksing
If Mobil 1 is willing pick up the tab I would obviously let that run through its course.
If I try to flush myself I was thinking of building a cold/warm engine flush by a large tub on the bottom and with a pump and hose(maybe an liquid warming element too) to shower the engine to wash the bits..
I was also considering a running 10 min diesel/oil or the BG product mentioned. then oil change, repeat several times. Then have a super low OCI.
I would open the cover up again and take a look at the progress during one of the intervals and send the oil for UOA
Doing work myself is very hard due to the back 3 cylinders are buried deep into the bay. Need to remove the wipers, etc and then the throttle body and intake manifold..a billion tubes.. I would need to replace $50-70 worth of seals and gaskets as well. It is soo stupid that all this work to get to one side of the engine including the PCV valve. I might as well change the spark plugs too!
first video shows all the plastics/wipers to remove....
https://youtu.be/ZC2QhqAF9-k?t=109
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kploK3wDRBg&list=PLLNAXEfF_zweR3bhaEm509uF6OKQPSTue
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jw4CeRg3ZEI
You first need to figure out what readily dissolves this stuff before running a flush. No use running one with a product that won't touch it.
If Mobil 1 is willing pick up the tab I would obviously let that run through its course.
If I try to flush myself I was thinking of building a cold/warm engine flush by a large tub on the bottom and with a pump and hose(maybe an liquid warming element too) to shower the engine to wash the bits..
I was also considering a running 10 min diesel/oil or the BG product mentioned. then oil change, repeat several times. Then have a super low OCI.
I would open the cover up again and take a look at the progress during one of the intervals and send the oil for UOA
Doing work myself is very hard due to the back 3 cylinders are buried deep into the bay. Need to remove the wipers, etc and then the throttle body and intake manifold..a billion tubes.. I would need to replace $50-70 worth of seals and gaskets as well. It is soo stupid that all this work to get to one side of the engine including the PCV valve. I might as well change the spark plugs too!
first video shows all the plastics/wipers to remove....
https://youtu.be/ZC2QhqAF9-k?t=109
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kploK3wDRBg&list=PLLNAXEfF_zweR3bhaEm509uF6OKQPSTue
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jw4CeRg3ZEI
You first need to figure out what readily dissolves this stuff before running a flush. No use running one with a product that won't touch it.
+ 1 ...
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
You first need to figure out what readily dissolves this stuff before running a flush. No use running one with a product that won't touch it.
Agreed, Hence what I have several containers of goop + solvent.. will continue to research on it.
You first need to figure out what readily dissolves this stuff before running a flush. No use running one with a product that won't touch it.
Agreed, Hence what I have several containers of goop + solvent.. will continue to research on it.
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