My Suv had a heart attack, too much Bacon? Help!

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Having watched the videos, it looks like something was added, inadvertently or on purpose and it reacted with motor oil. Veggie oil alone would not do this, it would look more like lard at low temp. Also, motor oil alone would not turn into this jell like skin.
Seems like someone was playing a school chemist.
 
Originally Posted By: PimTac
As I watched the two videos my first thought was that it looked like Varathane.


Does it skin over if you leave the lid off?
 
Originally Posted By: das_peikko
Originally Posted By: PimTac
As I watched the two videos my first thought was that it looked like Varathane.


Does it skin over if you leave the lid off?




Yes, definitely.
 
Here is my long story of the start of my probs.
Toyota hybrids in the cold winter normally start up by turning on the electric side first,display "ready", then after 10secs or so turns on the ICE(internal combustion engine) for about a min or two to warm up the ICE.
The hybrid uses the electric motor,MG1, to crank the ICE. Instead of a starter..my guess is that it Could crank much stronger than a starter.
My car started having problem in mid Jan when temps was between 5-15F.i would turn the car on, display ”ready" then it would crank and run the engine for about 3-4 secs and shut off the ICE. Christmas light show on the dashboard about the Hybrid drive having a problem. OBD gives code ICE did not start. Car would only move in electric (slowly) without trying to start the ICE. Funny thing was the ICE did sound like it was on those few secs and sounded like it cut out. I would turn off the car and start it up again about 3-5 times and then the car would operate like normal and I continue to drove back and forth to work. This whole time I thought it was the ICE acting up.

Two weeks later the engine started to shake and sound pretty rough during the 3-5secs. But still eventually ran. Then a few days later it gave me a low oil pressure and I checked the dip stick and noticed the sticky oil. I reduced driving at this point. And drain the [censored] out of my engine (with engine hot)and did an oil change. I ran a 20 miles with half a bottle of seafoam. I drained the oil and a bunch of sludge gather at the bottom of that bucket. It is in one of my videos. During that 20miles the engine shook at the cold start but ran normal after warming up.The filter of that change also has boogers hanging out of it. At this point I opened up the oil pan and cover.

The oil sludge has some sparkles in it in the sun light....no bueno...

I really like this car that I bought 4years ago and was hoping to run it to 300k. It is a great smooth ride and it saddens me that this may be the death of it.

I do not think anyone messed with my car, secured lot at work and I have security camera and car was in garage at home.
 
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Get a bottle of BG EPR, dump it in with the oil. Go for a 1/2 hour drive and maybe even idle it for a good 15 minutes after and do an oil change. EPR is great at fixing stuck rings and such so this may help your engine overall.
 
Originally Posted By: BAJA_05
This whole video/topic seems very perplexed to me. He changes his own oil but nothing looked wrong with the oil he dumped in to create this mess?? Very very perplexing!!!


Dale


Drastic changes in oil condition show up on a dipstick ~ a few weeks ago I’m helping change my son’s 3.6L Pentastar … had not planned to change it but it was very, very thick on dipstick and fill cap area..
Starting to sludge at only 4K miles …
We changed it …
 
I am surprised the car runs or ran with that gel when it was cold. you would think it would be destroyed by now!
maybe the cars are tougher than what we think and here we are debating over a little thicker oil vs. a little thinner oil ... lol
 
Originally Posted By: deven
Get a bottle of BG EPR, dump it in with the oil. Go for a 1/2 hour drive and maybe even idle it for a good 15 minutes after and do an oil change. EPR is great at fixing stuck rings and such so this may help your engine overall.

Never heard of the stuff. Thanks will check it out. I have several contanters with a dab of sludge in it and various solvents to see which one works. I was going to pick up autorx and try mineral oil as well.
 
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It's a product of BG. BG109 in their stocking list. Now known as EPR (Engine Performance Restore). It works well in most cases. But this is an unusual one ...

Listen to your mechanic. Get your evidence from Blackstone. Get ready for XOM to deny anything having to do with this. You did not buy it from them (ie XOM jobber), you bought it from a retailer. It passed through many hands. Anyone could have fooled with the mix ...

Someone might have injected something through the edge of a foil seal and you would not have seen it. Prolly took engine heat to set it off ... The more you drove, the thicker it got. Now you have gel.

But, if it was mixed with motor oil (?), you had some lubrication until you got a check engine light. So the engine may live. Yes, it was compromised. Yes, it will prolly not live as long as it could have. But, it may run fine for many, many miles ...

The issue is, can it be flushed? I'm not a fan of flushing engines. I think a decent oil will keep it clean enough normally. But this is an extreme case ...

So what to do? First, get a sample of the goo. Maybe more than one. Find something that will soften it, or liquefy it?

I'd start with Kerosene. It's pretty benign. It is the native solvent for all sorts of adhesives. It has some lubricity (not a lot). If Kerosene will liquefy the material, then you/your mechanic can fill the engine to the valve covers with a mix of Kerosene and Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO), which is a pretty decent low grade solvent by itself (with better lubricity). Start the engine and run it a few minutes at idle,
Now put on a new filter and a decent semi-synthetic oil like Maxlife 10w30 and full can of BG-109. Drive it cautiously around the block. Listen and look for odd sounds, fluctuating oil pressure (have a gauge installed temporarily). Pull the filter and see what it looks like? See what the oil feels like? Any color changes? In this case I might go with something like Royal Purple so I could actually see color changes quickly ...

If all seems normal, you may have dodged a bullet
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If something seems off, you may now try to figure out what that is (variable cam phasing, etc.) My guess (no bets) is that it will run as normal, maybe throw a code or two ...

You will have to baby it for 100 miles, then change the oil and filter again and use BG-109 each time until you are confident that the goo is gone. Once you are confident, just drive it
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-> Just a note, and I don't know if this is still the case, but the Valvoline Maxlife jugs I just used (in storage more than a year) had very well attached foil seals. Like really well stuck. If you can find current jugs of any appropriate oil with really good seals, use them from now on
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And, just in case no one thought of it, this could all be from a filter in the store with powdered glue inserted as joke ... The Mobil 1 may have been fine. You could have screwed on a bad/"joke" filter and it would have come out the same. There is no way to be sure of the source here ...

Maybe someone does not like Toyota/Lexus (1%'ers, you know ...) and they targeted the filters that fit that engine ...
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Idemitsu would be able to trace the batch right to the bottle you had and issue a quality cert. Not sure if M! can do the same.

Wal mart suffers open return issues.

UD
 
If This is a M1 mistake It would affect an entire lot of oil, they're marked with a lot code. Go back to where ever you bought the oil and ask if there have been any customer complaint of similar Issues with their oil, Same w/ M1 see if they have gotten any complaints.
There are only 3 scenarios: 1) someone sabotaged the oil at the store. 2) the previous owner was using additives and/or neglected maintenance and there was already sludge in the engine.
3) A chemical reaction from a tiny coolant leak mixed with Ethanol fuel and/or oil additives ( #3 sheer speculation on my part)

Regardless your engine is scrap, try to get someone to pay for it Walmart or M1 If not look for a wrecked Suv in a scrap yard and swap engines. Used engines cost around $900-$2500 depending on the model car and engine type.
 
OP, has Blackstone received the sample yet?

I highly, highly doubt that this is a Mobil problem. Definitely seems like a case of either; 1) Returned and tampered oil 2) Something added to the crankcase or 3) This isn't legitimate.

I'm leaning towards scenarios 1 and 2 so I'm anxiously awaiting on the Blackstone report to see what they find.

Perhaps I missed it, but, have you refilled with oil and tried driving since dropping the pan or are you going with the tear down route?
 
Originally Posted By: RamFan
OP, has Blackstone received the sample yet?

I highly, highly doubt that this is a Mobil problem. Definitely seems like a case of either; 1) Returned and tampered oil 2) Something added to the crankcase or 3) This isn't legitimate.

I'm leaning towards scenarios 1 and 2 so I'm anxiously awaiting on the Blackstone report to see what they find.

Perhaps I missed it, but, have you refilled with oil and tried driving since dropping the pan or are you going with the tear down route?


I tend to lean toward #3.
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Originally Posted By: Inspecktor
Looks like pure Lucas oil treatment with a little STP thrown in for good measure.


That was my thought as well.

I don't think we're getting the complete picture/context here.
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If 1) there no sealing of the cap, one should be suspicious right off, 2) if it was not pouring out of the bottle as expected, then one would stop pouring immediately, 3) neither Lucas, STP, Hyperlube or any other oil treatments should be added to non-smoker engines, 4) the oil analysis company will have to dilute with a solvent and do some calculations before they can analyze it.
 
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That stuff is nasty in the 1st video where he's got the big spoon. The cam lobes don't look too bad in the 3rd video considering this engine probably didn't get adequate oil flow due to the oil pickup screen being clogged with the slime.

If this is a hoax it's the most elaborate one I've seen to date. I don't think it is, but it's definitely a mystery on what caused this slime in the first place.
 
You can tell a lot about the sludge by what chemical breaks it down. If gasoline won't break it down, then you'll know it's not a petroleum based sludge. If you try Purple Power next and it does break it down, then the sludge is likely vegetable oil based.
 
Originally Posted By: OilUzer
I am surprised the car runs or ran with that gel when it was cold. you would think it would be destroyed by now!
maybe the cars are tougher than what we think and here we are debating over a little thicker oil vs. a little thinner oil ... lol


I bought an old Chevy (1971) C50 truck at an auction, the owner said the engine was blown.

I got it running, but it was missing on a few cyliners (I suspect bad exhaust valves)

I noticed no oil pressure... I figured the gauge must be broken...

I ran that engine for a half hour WITH THE WRONG OIL PUMP DRIVESHAFT IN IT! (HD truck is different)
I dropped the pan, changed the oil pump driveshaft - - it has 80 lbs of oil pressure!

I guess I didn't hurt anything................................
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