Engine pics--97k Miles on 2.2 Ecotec

[ltslimjim]

I stated 'somewhat delusional', in that no emotional reponse. Just to be clear, I'm not stating YOU are delusional. I was saying your response appeared somewhat.

You have every reason to have some sort of emotional attachment to a quality product on some level, it just sounded brute and sorta funny when it didn't need to, we know you're passionate about a good product as you've proven yourself in this thread.

Anyway, that's besides the point. I wouldn't say it was emo, more like passionate for a good product.

Not 'trying' to debate words, my point was having an open conversation and it doesn't really create that when it comes across as belittling another person's expression.

It wasn't about this engine needing to switch lubes, it was about pointing out that it isn't necessarily needing to be limited to any one oil.

At least, among those reputable products; including M1.

 

[wardak33]

Originally Posted By: JOD


Yes, the engine looks clean, but with a reasonable OCI I imagine that any oil would look the same. No one even asked how often you're changing the oil!


^ Yes, they did. Earlier on, someone asked and I replied saying I change the oil every 5k miles which is when the DIC reads the Oil life to a very low percentage.

 

[wardak33]

Originally Posted By: surfstar
.

wardak33, thanks for the pic - makes me happy I went with an ECOTEC powered Vue last year when car shopping. Thing runs smooth and quiet!


No problem! Glad it helped!

And as to the other people, this thread was about an engine that was using a certain type of oil. Was it more the engine or the oil? No idea, but obviously the combination works. Did I have an emotional attachment to M1, no, which is why I was planning on switching over to castrol edge, but lately, M1 has been making its moves on me. Last night, she whispered dirty things into my ear, and not just things that needed to be cleaned lol

 

[Vikas]

If there is another thread where similar picture was posted using different oil, I would like to know. As I said before my recollection is that only M1 pictures had no varnish.

 

[ltslimjim]

It is true that most pics with use of dino have varnish, while other synthetic OCIs and some conventional pics had spotless valve-train pics.

Just from memory, FWIW. I'm not going to search for that to prove it to myself, but have fun.

 

[lemonade]

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
It is true that most pics with use of dino have varnish, while other synthetic OCIs and some conventional pics had spotless valve-train pics.

Just from memory, FWIW. I'm not going to search for that to prove it to myself, but have fun.

Seems like that's the case, but the question is whether varnish is a problem or not, i mean i'm not eating off it right? If there's no measurable differene, i will use cheaper dino.

 

[JOD]

Originally Posted By: Vikas
If there is another thread where similar picture was posted using different oil, I would like to know. As I said before my recollection is that only M1 pictures had no varnish.


Well, there are the pictures Surfstar posted in this thread, for starters; no varnish at all, just some used oil Then there's the Long OCI on Dino.

OCI, driving habits and engine design seem to have much bigger role in keeping varnish to a minimum, particularly with the deposit control requirements in GF-5/SN rated oils.

I don't doubt that 30 or 20 years ago (or maybe even 15) that M1 had a competitive advantage WRT deposit control over many oils, particularly in long OCI applications. With the current requirements for oils from all of the licensing bodies, I think any oil which meets SN/GF-5 and is changed regularly will keep this Ecotec clean, and "work" just as well. That's why I think the "sky is falling, why change" comments are silly. If it were my car I'd be loading up on that almost free Nexgen!

 

[ltslimjim]

^I agree actually...though I don't necessarily follow this. I prefer synthetic in my current app and I'm doing so for various reasons. The differences in synthetic and conventional are more obvious in abusive on oil engines, service conditions, etc.

 

[wardak33]

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
^I agree actually...though I don't necessarily follow this. I prefer synthetic in my current app and I'm doing so for various reasons. The differences in synthetic and conventional are more obvious in abusive on oil engines, service conditions, etc.


I agree with the differences in synthetic and conventional. As I said, my engine idles a lot and there are many times where I have to jump into the car and drive off without warming it up and the weather is usually below 32 degrees (in the winter).

 

[SteveSRT8]

Note that my oldest fleet truck with over 400k miles is just as clean as the OP's pic. Amsoil for the first 200k miles and whatever synthetic is on sale thereafter. Changed per GM OLM since new.

I have another 6.0 GM gas V8 with over 250k miles that I took out of a fleet truck due to low oil pressure and it is just as clean also.

Note that IME it's the stuff you CAN'T see that's also important.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Note that my oldest fleet truck with over 400k miles is just as clean as the OP's pic. Amsoil for the first 200k miles and whatever synthetic is on sale thereafter. Changed per GM OLM since new.

I have another 6.0 GM gas V8 with over 250k miles that I took out of a fleet truck due to low oil pressure and it is just as clean also.

Note that IME it's the stuff you CAN'T see that's also important.


What ended up being the issue with that one Steve?

 

[ltslimjim]

^I'm curious myself, however his point about what you can't see is a good one.

Synthetics changed on time; even most conventional oils, are capable of valve-train protection these days to the point of the pics like the OP showed. Maintenance habits are more important, by now, such as abusive owner or neglecting service. Aside from the extreme cold starts as the OP mentioned, which may only increase wear top-end perhaps for that cold start regarding flow(assuming a good ADBV/engine design relative to oil filter and cylinder wash down being negligible over night) will not necessarily affect cleanliness as well.

 

[daves87rs]

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
^I agree actually...though I don't necessarily follow this. I prefer synthetic in my current app and I'm doing so for various reasons. The differences in synthetic and conventional are more obvious in abusive on oil engines, service conditions, etc.


+1

 

[ltslimjim]

Originally Posted By: lemonade
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
It is true that most pics with use of dino have varnish, while other synthetic OCIs and some conventional pics had spotless valve-train pics.

Just from memory, FWIW. I'm not going to search for that to prove it to myself, but have fun.

Seems like that's the case, but the question is whether varnish is a problem or not, i mean i'm not eating off it right? If there's no measurable differene, i will use cheaper dino.


Oh, and didn't want to forget to mention varnish 'can' become a problem in engines that are equipped with a timing chain.

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: lemonade
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
It is true that most pics with use of dino have varnish, while other synthetic OCIs and some conventional pics had spotless valve-train pics.

Just from memory, FWIW. I'm not going to search for that to prove it to myself, but have fun.

Seems like that's the case, but the question is whether varnish is a problem or not, i mean i'm not eating off it right? If there's no measurable differene, i will use cheaper dino.


Some here say that varnish is harmless, but I disagree. Varnish comes from oxidation, and oxidation is a sign that coking may be forming in the piston rings. Ring coking leads to increased oil consumption that can lead to early cat failure, etc. With the superior base oil of synthetics, oxidation is decreased. IMO. This is a reason why dino must be changed at lower OCIs than quality synthetics.

 

[HM12460]

Tig, I've been contemplating a switch to Mobil 1 in my F-150 with the 4.2 V-6 engine. What brand filter do you use for this interval? I like the Carquest brand and they have a retail store close by the house.

 

[gathermewool]

That's one clean engine! Such odd, brand-loyal responses, though. IMO, this level of cleanliness is what should be expected, not something special with results that only M1 can produce. I'm not knocking M1, but saying that any quality oil would have produced the same results. Use what ever other quality oil you want, it won't make much of a difference with 5k OCI's.

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: HM12460
Tig, I've been contemplating a switch to Mobil 1 in my F-150 with the 4.2 V-6 engine. What brand filter do you use for this interval? I like the Carquest brand and they have a retail store close by the house.



For some time now I have used MC oil filters, and they seem to do a fine job. Remember my engines stay very clean so there is no sludge build up in the filter, even after 10K.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Note that my oldest fleet truck with over 400k miles is just as clean as the OP's pic. Amsoil for the first 200k miles and whatever synthetic is on sale thereafter. Changed per GM OLM since new.

I have another 6.0 GM gas V8 with over 250k miles that I took out of a fleet truck due to low oil pressure and it is just as clean also.

Note that IME it's the stuff you CAN'T see that's also important.


What ended up being the issue with that one Steve?


Low oil pressure was due to the plunger being stuck in the oil pump relief valve. The entire bottom end was absolutely perfect though. So it's getting re-ringed and valve job, then it goes on a stand until biz is slow so I can transplant it.

Cool programming in GM's put truck into limp mode as soon as oil pressure went too low. At 6 psi it cuts spark completely.
Probably saved this engine.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Note that my oldest fleet truck with over 400k miles is just as clean as the OP's pic. Amsoil for the first 200k miles and whatever synthetic is on sale thereafter. Changed per GM OLM since new.

I have another 6.0 GM gas V8 with over 250k miles that I took out of a fleet truck due to low oil pressure and it is just as clean also.

Note that IME it's the stuff you CAN'T see that's also important.


What ended up being the issue with that one Steve?


Low oil pressure was due to the plunger being stuck in the oil pump relief valve. The entire bottom end was absolutely perfect though. So it's getting re-ringed and valve job, then it goes on a stand until biz is slow so I can transplant it.

Cool programming in GM's put truck into limp mode as soon as oil pressure went too low. At 6 psi it cuts spark completely.
Probably saved this engine.


Definitely a good call on the programming

Any idea what caused the plunger to stick? That sounds like a bit of a freak failure......