My Sonata Failed Inspection

First one could be the temp sensor or the new thermostat or maybe even air in the system.

The second one could be the valve or even wiring.

The third one sound expensive - torque converter lockup issues? Probably want to tackle that first before putting good money after bad.

Is it rusty or rust free?
Rust free
 
That you would never know a safety system was working or not if you didn't pay attention to what lights came on or didn't come on..
And you can scan 14 lights in 3 seconds?

Or maybe the safety system works but the light does not.

Or more likely they both work and if there was an issue the light stays on.

Perhaps I need to create a pilots inspection checklist before I drive down the street.
 
@Ant57, is that miles or km? Either way, it's a lot!

That (c. 2002 - 2010) was the peak of Hyundai/Kia's quality from what I've heard. They were rivalling the top-tier Japanese manufacturers for quality while being priced significantly cheaper.

The car might be worth repairing and hanging onto.
 
15 yrs/+300K = it doesn’t owe you anything.

I say get an estimate on the repairs and if it is over $3000 then time to move on. Just be careful of the sunk-cost fallacy trap some people get sucked into when dealing with old car repairs.
 
15 yrs/+300K = it doesn’t owe you anything.

I say get an estimate on the repairs and if it is over $3000 then time to move on. Just be careful of the sunk-cost fallacy trap some people get sucked into when dealing with old car repairs.
I agree. 300K miles on a Hyundai ia huge, 300kms - around 180K miles - is also huge. Even a thousand bucks seems like a lot to spend on such a car. And trust me, I'm an expert in 'sunk-cost fallacy', lol.
 
I agree. 300K miles on a Hyundai ia huge, 300kms - around 180K miles - is also huge. Even a thousand bucks seems like a lot to spend on such a car. And trust me, I'm an expert in 'sunk-cost fallacy', lol.
We got the Elantra for my daughter and it needed some relatively pricey repairs to be drivable and pass inspection. Cost a few grand to fix up but it has reliable since. Currently at 214,375 miles.
 
If you do wind up throwing parts at it, please use quality ones
Or don't bother, you'll waste time and money
The TCC code is the only one that's a wildcard, I'd clear codes and put it through a drive cycle to see how long it takes to come back
As for the thermostat, a non OE was the first mistake

If you can get it through a drive cycle and inspected, maybe take that as a sign that it's on a 12 month death march
It doesn't owe you anything at that mileage
Has the transmission fluid ever been serviced?
1000011218.jpg
 
I can find out.
I'll jump in for a quick second, as I have experience being burned by flaky T-stats on FORDS and Dodges..

Boil water, put it in a whiskey glass, (carefully) toss the T-stat in - it should OPEN wide.

Let it cool a bit, pour out the warm water, add cool tap water - it should Close completely

I have made it a habit to check and test the old unit and the new unit when R&Ring T-stats

- Arco
 
I'll jump in for a quick second, as I have experience being burned by flaky T-stats on FORDS and Dodges..

Boil water, put it in a whiskey glass, (carefully) toss the T-stat in - it should OPEN wide.

Let it cool a bit, pour out the warm water, add cool tap water - it should Close completely

I have made it a habit to check and test the old unit and the new unit when R&Ring T-stats

- Arco
Yes, always do this. Takes 10 minutes but can save you so much time and frustration!
 
I've never lived in an area where I had to have inspections done (safety or emissions). There are lots of beaters driving around with check engine lights, missing exhaust systems, etc.
 
I can find out.
Parts houses often stock alternative temperature stats for vehicles, perhaps a lower temp than OEM was installed. The weep hole in the stat has to be installed in the up position of you may get air bubbles in the system, perhaps this stat had an o-ring that got left out during reassembly and it is letting water by...or most likely, your brand new stat has failed open. I had a dorman one from autozone do that to me, 2 weeks old and it failed open.
 
Parts houses often stock alternative temperature stats for vehicles, perhaps a lower temp than OEM was installed. The weep hole in the stat has to be installed in the up position of you may get air bubbles in the system, perhaps this stat had an o-ring that got left out during reassembly and it is letting water by...or most likely, your brand new stat has failed open. I had a dorman one from autozone do that to me, 2 weeks old and it failed open.
Fixed:
I had a rebadged Motorad one from autozone do that to me, 2 weeks old and it failed open.
 
Fixed:
I had a rebadged Motorad one from autozone do that to me, 2 weeks old and it failed open.
I'm not in the know as to who makes parts for who but it was more dang trouble than it was worth. I replaced it as preventative maintenance because the OEM was 20 years old an 150K miles. Not only did it fail open, but they gave me a 192 degree one when my OEM one was a 180. It caused my high fan to run a lot in city traffic whereas it had never done that before unless the AC was on. The OEM Ford one is back in it now.
 
15 yrs/+300K = it doesn’t owe you anything.

I say get an estimate on the repairs and if it is over $3000 then time to move on. Just be careful of the sunk-cost fallacy trap some people get sucked into when dealing with old car repairs.
I agree. Since I'm the only owner, have changed oil every ~ 6 k M1 w Purolator upgrade, didn't accelerate hard at all, I'm thinking if i can get it passed for around 3 k, i have a good used car.
 
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