My AutoRX Experience Log
- Thread starter BlazerLT
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I have a 96 blazer 2dr 4x4 with 76k miles, the best i get is 21.xx with all highway driving. How did you get 24?? I might have to use auto rx as I don't know how the vehicle was maintained before I bought it at 65k.
You have to remember that the EPA has a specific driving profile it uses to determine it's ratings. IIRC, it then uses some formula to lower it's ratings to something acheivable in the real world.
So it's certainly possible to better those ratings. It's all in how you drive. FWIW, my Festiva consistantly beats the City EPA, and consistantly falls far below the HWY EPA. It's due to my city conditions, and heavy foot on the highway.
The use of ARX help to make your engine as effecient as possible. It's not magic though.
Keep in mind that some engines develop more power, and become more effecient as they age. The LT1 in my Impala is a classic example of this. Clean all the deposits out, and it can certainly make more power than it did new, up to a point, of course...
So it's certainly possible to better those ratings. It's all in how you drive. FWIW, my Festiva consistantly beats the City EPA, and consistantly falls far below the HWY EPA. It's due to my city conditions, and heavy foot on the highway.
The use of ARX help to make your engine as effecient as possible. It's not magic though.
Keep in mind that some engines develop more power, and become more effecient as they age. The LT1 in my Impala is a classic example of this. Clean all the deposits out, and it can certainly make more power than it did new, up to a point, of course...
When you clean your ring packs you restore compression in turn you increase efficency of your combustion. High mileage or abused engines are going to notice gains faster than a well kept low mileage engine. However there will still be measurable gains with newer engine. How can you put a price driving having preventive maintenance in place along with top performance ?
I dont doubt autorx works in some cases. Fuel mileage is probably the worst thing you can measure as a variable. There are so many things that effect MPG its rediculous to use that. For example, if the ambient temperature is 10 degrees hotter when he checked his MPG, his tire pressure would have went up on its own and that could contribute to a 5-10% increase in fuel economy. Its basic HS science (look up "ideal gas law" to see how temperature, pressure and volume are related)
My Dad's 98 4.3L Blazer with 180,000 miles ALWAYS gets around 23-24 mpg highway and about 20 in town. Checked and verified by calculating it by hand.
When I Auto-Rxed it, it went up breifly to about 27 mpg on one trip. For the life of me, I can not figure it out, but I, along with my folks, aren't complaining
Hot air is less dense also, which means less fuel can be burned which equals better mpg. But if you hit a point where because your burning less fuel, you have to increase the throttle, or your getting detonation and the ECU is pulling timing, you may get lower fuel economy with hot air. One thing I noticed with Auto-RX, and Lube Control, is they both eliminated pining in my Dad's truck. It used to ping LIKE CRAZY; loudest, most constent pinging/knocking I've ever heard from any engine. Now, it's totally silent. I'm thining both products work there way through the rings and past them and dissolve the carbon on the piston tops, at least any that's close to the ringlands.
The temperature difference was not enough to contribute to my economy gain. I have driven this truck for the last 3 years through this same trip I took the truck through this time.
I was only getting 21mpg max last year with the same temperature and conditions and the exact same gas station.
On the way back I usually have to fill up so I can get home.
I cruised right through this time and still had 1/8 of a tank left when I parked my truck.
[ May 23, 2005, 10:47 PM: Message edited by: 59 Vetteman ]
ARX worked great in my 4.3 liter as well. Initial treatment was at 100 K on the clock. Tail pipe emission, were the lowest ever in 7 years after a single cleaning and rinse. I think it was due to cleaning up the ring packs. At 130K on the clock the emission reading were still lower than what they were at the 30K mark.
True, I just had mine tested.
I don't have the results from before, but here it is now:
Hydrocarbon Acceptable Limit: 165ppm
My results: 16ppm
Carbon Monoxide Acceptable Limit: 1.00%
My results: 0.007%
Pretty clean running engine......
LV, note that Auto-RX and Lubecontrol ( for a few years now) have sponsored an independent website originally focused on oil analysis testing of automobiles .
If they were junk chemistries I sure wouldn't mention them by name here or to my customers.
Do take note how many chemistries I mention publicly, the silence is telling and yes most of what is out there to use is junk.
Standing up under the microscope of the most anal retentive automotive lubricant board and constant use in many different users engines, trans, and gearboxes seems to negate your cynicism. Cynicism I respect but see as misdirected in this case. I sell nothing but analysis interpretation services.
Don't miss the real deal because of incorrect assumptions.
Your independent test data is all around you on BITOG and you haven't seen it, if it was a snake...oh you know the rest..
Sincerely, Terry
If they were junk chemistries I sure wouldn't mention them by name here or to my customers.
Do take note how many chemistries I mention publicly, the silence is telling and yes most of what is out there to use is junk.
Standing up under the microscope of the most anal retentive automotive lubricant board and constant use in many different users engines, trans, and gearboxes seems to negate your cynicism. Cynicism I respect but see as misdirected in this case. I sell nothing but analysis interpretation services.
Don't miss the real deal because of incorrect assumptions.
Your independent test data is all around you on BITOG and you haven't seen it, if it was a snake...oh you know the rest..
Sincerely, Terry
it is sludge and grit.
The Fram X2 filter used has synthetic media which is nothing like the grit seem in the photos.
This was just a small scraping from the media with the end of a butter knife.
The whole filter was plugged with this stuff and there was visible sludge in parts of the media.
I think I might need another cleaning cycle to properly get rid of this junk in the engine.
The Fram X2 filter used has synthetic media which is nothing like the grit seem in the photos.
This was just a small scraping from the media with the end of a butter knife.
The whole filter was plugged with this stuff and there was visible sludge in parts of the media.
I think I might need another cleaning cycle to properly get rid of this junk in the engine.
Ok, just as an update.
Changed the rinse oil and overall the oil was not too dirty after 3000miles.
Truck is now back on a diet of strictly Esso XD3 0w30 PAO Synthetic and Quaker State filters.
Truck has never run better or quieter.
Also, oil pressure is down quite a bit.
Changed the rinse oil and overall the oil was not too dirty after 3000miles.
Truck is now back on a diet of strictly Esso XD3 0w30 PAO Synthetic and Quaker State filters.
Truck has never run better or quieter.
Also, oil pressure is down quite a bit.
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