My 8L90E "experiment".

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Aug 3, 2024
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So I have a 2020 Silverado 1500 with the 5.3L and 8 speed auto. As is tradition the transmission has already had two warranty repairs, a new torque converter at .under 20K and a first gear solenoid not long afterwards. It's now out of warranty so it's time to get proactive about preventing future issues.

It's no secret these things run hot, fluid temps topping 200F is apparently the norm. GM might be OK with, that but I am not. We all know that heat is the biggest killer of automatic transmissions and I certainly can't see a down side to getting that fluid to run a bit (or a lot) cooler. GM actually released Service Bulletin 21-NA-199, which replaces the thermal bypass valve that wasn't fully open until 194F with an upgraded part that opens at 158F. For some reason that TSB only applies to the 6 speed, leaving the 8L90s to keep running hot.

Of course this issue has been known for quite some time and hasn't gone unaddressed. The internet (including BITOG) is rife with information on bringing down the temperature, from "flipping the pill" to aftermarket bypass kits. I decided to go a different route. I like the idea of keeping everything as OEM as possible and I wanted to use that new TBV for the 6L80, so I ordered one. I thought it would be a direct bolt-on but the housings are different and the metal lines wouldn't fit. The internals were identical other than the "pill" opening at a lower temp, so I just swapped the guts out.
Reinstalled, leak checked good so off for a test drive. I live in the tropics and summer was just starting so it didn't take long for the fluid to warm up. So far so good and I decided to just keep an eye on the fluid temp while doing normal day-to-day driving. I did just that and even in stop and go traffic with a heat index of over 100F, the fluid never got hotter than 160F. That's considerably lower than what I was getting before the swap, but I knew the ultimate test would be when we took our 20ft travel trailer out to the beach for a long weekend. That day came and it was a scorcher, and wouldn't you know it we got stuck in road construction, the ultimate torture test while pulling a trailer. None of that mattered though, stop and go or 60 mph down the highway with the A/C blasting, the fluid temps never went above 170F. I call that a win.

I know I over-complicated the whole thing and could have simply used a bypass kit, flipped the valve or just rolled the dice and let it be, but I kinda like my more "elegant" solution sticking with OEM parts, even if I had to bend the rules a little bit. I always say never argue with success, and so far I'm pretty happy with the outcome.
 
I think one can use the plunger from the 90 in the 80 and keep the same housing and such. A discrete mod that the dealer wouldn't notice looking at it.
 
You're out of warranty so you get to make the rules!

I have the 8L45 in my 21 GMC Canyon. They supposedly fixed whatever issue and moved to Mobil HP LV trans fluid but I have the opposite problem...it runs too cool! In the winter, only at 30F my trans temps only get to 70F. One 5F morning my trans fluid never got about 40F on an hour long highway commute. Even in the dead of summer I only get to about 40F above ambient.

I bought this. Works with all 6L, 8L and 10L variants. I picked the 165F thermostat. Stay right about there and the warmest I've seen it is 175F. Perfect.
Improved Racing Cooler Adapter with Thermostat
Install and Pics

Sharing this in case long term you decide to go another route.
 
You're out of warranty so you get to make the rules!

I have the 8L45 in my 21 GMC Canyon. They supposedly fixed whatever issue and moved to Mobil HP LV trans fluid but I have the opposite problem...it runs too cool! In the winter, only at 30F my trans temps only get to 70F. One 5F morning my trans fluid never got about 40F on an hour long highway commute. Even in the dead of summer I only get to about 40F above ambient.

I bought this. Works with all 6L, 8L and 10L variants. I picked the 165F thermostat. Stay right about there and the warmest I've seen it is 175F. Perfect.
Improved Racing Cooler Adapter with Thermostat
Install and Pics

Sharing this in case long term you decide to go another route.
Yeah the 8L45 runs too cool, hence the hygroscopic issue that caused problems until Mobil came up with a new fluid to put a band aid on the problem.
 
GM actually released Service Bulletin 21-NA-199, which replaces the thermal bypass valve that wasn't fully open until 194F with an upgraded part that opens at 158F. For some reason that TSB only applies to the 6 speed, leaving the 8L90s to keep running hot.

They use different fluid. 6Lxx uses Dex VI and 8Lxx uses Dex LV HP.

Dex LV is a unique beast. It is susceptible to degraded friction performance due to water absorption from condensation. Dig far enough into the GM service manual for torque convertor diagnosis and you'll run into a procedure called "Transmission Condensation Reduction". It instructs to brake torque the vehicle until the transmission fluid is 230F, then drive until fluid temp is reduced to 194F (the temp at which the coolant bypass closes). The goal is to effectively boil the accumulated water out of the fluid and return the friction performance.

This was a larger issue with the first version of the Dexron LV fluid. This fluid was superseded by the Mobil 1 LV HP fluid, which has much more stable friction modifiers in the presence of water.

So, GM leaving the 194F bypass thermostat for 8Lxx transmissions was done for a very calculated reason, not just "for some reason".
 
So, GM leaving the 194F bypass thermostat for 8Lxx transmissions was done for a very calculated reason, not just "for some reason".
Thank you. That's the main point behind making this post, to get the opinions of the better informed who are prevalent in this forum. I have the 8L90e, supposedly the "e" designation means that it has the "blue label" LV HP fluid which is supposed to be much less hygroscopic than its predecessors. I would assume that 160F for a period of time would be enough to get rid of whatever water still managed to get absorbed into the fluid, but I'm far from an expert on the topic.
I kept all the old parts so I can easily revert back to the original installation if necessary, which I may well do before what passes for "winter" down here. I'm interested in what others have to say about this.
 
Thank you. That's the main point behind making this post, to get the opinions of the better informed who are prevalent in this forum. I have the 8L90e, supposedly the "e" designation means that it has the "blue label" LV HP fluid which is supposed to be much less hygroscopic than its predecessors. I would assume that 160F for a period of time would be enough to get rid of whatever water still managed to get absorbed into the fluid, but I'm far from an expert on the topic.
I kept all the old parts so I can easily revert back to the original installation if necessary, which I may well do before what passes for "winter" down here. I'm interested in what others have to say about this.
“E” just means electronically controlled.
 
I'm not sure what elastomers GM is using these days for seals, but at Allison we ran all our durability tests at 250F sump temp (obviously converter out temp was higher in parts of the cycle when lockup was not engaged).
 
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