Good Afternoon folks. Was wondering what you folks use for a multi meter for automotive. Any advice and info is much appreciated.
Thank You
Thank You
Multi meter recommendations
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MolaKule
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There VOM's and there are DMM's. I have found I need both types for automotive work.
I have found that both types of meters from Home Depot are all of good quality.
I have found that both types of meters from Home Depot are all of good quality.
Thank You MolaKule for the info. Thank You also for putting the thread in proper sub forum
Depends on budget, frequency of use, and whether you're a butterfingers who often knocks things so it needs built tough.
A basic DC-current (watch out for this, many are only AC-current) clamp meter would be most versatile and entry level automotive oriented. What the best deal is at any given moment, hard to say on amazon and depends on whether you'd wait 5+ weeks for something from a Chinese merchant.
Here's an example:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0721MKXBC?
However it is also helpful to have a 2nd meter for measuring current concurrent to voltage, but I'm thinking of other disciplines more than automotive, then a value leader on Amazon is the Aneng brand, but really, there are very many options though the Centek/etc cheapies from Harbor Freight tend to fall apart, unlikely to survive a drop and short, low quality probe leads.
There's the 2nd aspect to it, invest in a probe lead set with the hooks, needle piercing and alligator jaw tips, and lead extensions... or make your own.
A basic DC-current (watch out for this, many are only AC-current) clamp meter would be most versatile and entry level automotive oriented. What the best deal is at any given moment, hard to say on amazon and depends on whether you'd wait 5+ weeks for something from a Chinese merchant.
Here's an example:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0721MKXBC?
However it is also helpful to have a 2nd meter for measuring current concurrent to voltage, but I'm thinking of other disciplines more than automotive, then a value leader on Amazon is the Aneng brand, but really, there are very many options though the Centek/etc cheapies from Harbor Freight tend to fall apart, unlikely to survive a drop and short, low quality probe leads.
There's the 2nd aspect to it, invest in a probe lead set with the hooks, needle piercing and alligator jaw tips, and lead extensions... or make your own.
Can you explain how the clamp meter works and how to use it in automotive applications? Thanks.
AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2026
Fluke or Snap-on. Never those HF ones at least not the free ones. I had one of those at the house and dad fried it testing AC connections with the DC setting. LOL. Not the meters fault but still I’ve never seen sparks fly so high ever.
You are correct. The HF ones do tend to blow up in spectacular fashion...
Have a Simpson 260 analog that I bought many years ago. Back then it was the de facto standard for many electrical service personnel, and was expensive to purchase, even back then. Also have the freebie Harbor Freight one, and it is my go to nowadays.
You put the clamp arms around a wire and can measure current through it, helpful and faster when you don't want to or can't break the circuit wiring to measure with a traditional non-clamp meter in series electrically, or the circuit is over the typical 10A current limit of many meters, or over the lower mA range so you're blowing the low range fuses. Some cheap meters don't even have fuses on both ranges.
It also helps avoid accidents like being tired and forgetting to swap your probe leads from current measurement mode back to voltage so next time you want to test voltage, you short something out and/or pop the fuse.
"Some" meters now have little internal blocking door plates over the banana jacks that lock out the voltage jack to prevent this, but most meters don't have it and it's another thing that can break long-term.
I've purchased a number of those HF multimeters. They offer a lot of "bang for the buck". Unfortunately, every single one of them has failed in one manner or another.
My 'Mac-Tools' cheapie and multiple Fluke meters have never failed.
My 'Mac-Tools' cheapie and multiple Fluke meters have never failed.
If you want nothing but the best then drop the coin and use Flute. I work in 480v and higher panels on a daily basis and all of my equipment is Fluke except a small Klein that I use on the fly.
The two I use most are
UT61E:
https://www.amazon.com/UNI-T-Digita...d=1&keywords=Unit+ut61e&qid=1621740055&sr=8-2
and UT210e clamp meter:
https://www.amazon.com/Uni-T-B4Q094...=1&keywords=Unit+ut210e&qid=1621740157&sr=8-3
UT61E:
https://www.amazon.com/UNI-T-Digita...d=1&keywords=Unit+ut61e&qid=1621740055&sr=8-2
and UT210e clamp meter:
https://www.amazon.com/Uni-T-B4Q094...=1&keywords=Unit+ut210e&qid=1621740157&sr=8-3
My 45 year old HEATHKIT
I've got a very old fluke. Its at least 30 years old, it still works great.
I will say the last time I had it calibrated they switched my nice leads with the interchangeable ends for some less nice one without said ends. I'm a little tweaked about that.
I will say the last time I had it calibrated they switched my nice leads with the interchangeable ends for some less nice one without said ends. I'm a little tweaked about that.
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