The situation:
My MTB is a dual suspension with Reynolds carbon wheels from 2014. The rear wheel has been trouble over the years. First, the rim delaminated, so Reynolds sent me a new one under warranty and I rebuilt it. Next, the spoke nipples corroded on both wheels (never use Al spoke nipples with carbon rims, but that's what Reynolds and other manufacturers do) so I rebuilt both wheels with brass nipples. Next, the pawls in the rear freehub wore/sheared so I had to replace them. Then again a year later. At this point I asked Reynolds for a warranty pawl replacement. They looked at my photos and observed that the pawl pockets in the hub shell (where the rounded end of the pawl fits and rotates) were slightly distorted from wear, and offered a warranty replacement of the hub shell. Their "warranty replacement" offer is I mail them my wheel, they rebuild the rim onto a new hub shell with a new freehub driver and send it back to me with a $200 charge for parts (spokes, etc.) and labor. I asked them, just send me the parts and I'll do it myself, like you did when the rear rim failed. They said they can't do that in this case, so I'll probably source new parts locally and do it myself.
Root cause:
As it happens, this rear wheel has the pawls in the hub body and the ratchet on the freehub driver, the opposite of how most wheels are set up. This turned out to be a flawed design because the aluminum alloy from which the hub shell is made, cannot withstand the stress/force/torque of pedaling, since it's concentrated in the pawl pockets; over time it bends/distorts them. This means the pawls don't line up perfectly against the ratchet; it still works but the pawls wear out faster. So most other wheels that do it the reverse way (pawls on the freehub driver and ratchet in the hub body) are like that for good reason. Having the ratchet in the hub body evenly distributes the stress/force/torque of pedaling.
So I'm looking around LBS and other sources for a new hub shell and driver body. It's SRAM XX1 11 speed, 28 straight-pull spokes, 142mm dropout spacing, 12/15 mm (inner/outer) through-axle, 6902 bearings. Ideally with same hub effective outer spoke hole diameter so I can use the same spokes. But if not, not big deal, spokes aren't that expensive.
My MTB is a dual suspension with Reynolds carbon wheels from 2014. The rear wheel has been trouble over the years. First, the rim delaminated, so Reynolds sent me a new one under warranty and I rebuilt it. Next, the spoke nipples corroded on both wheels (never use Al spoke nipples with carbon rims, but that's what Reynolds and other manufacturers do) so I rebuilt both wheels with brass nipples. Next, the pawls in the rear freehub wore/sheared so I had to replace them. Then again a year later. At this point I asked Reynolds for a warranty pawl replacement. They looked at my photos and observed that the pawl pockets in the hub shell (where the rounded end of the pawl fits and rotates) were slightly distorted from wear, and offered a warranty replacement of the hub shell. Their "warranty replacement" offer is I mail them my wheel, they rebuild the rim onto a new hub shell with a new freehub driver and send it back to me with a $200 charge for parts (spokes, etc.) and labor. I asked them, just send me the parts and I'll do it myself, like you did when the rear rim failed. They said they can't do that in this case, so I'll probably source new parts locally and do it myself.
Root cause:
As it happens, this rear wheel has the pawls in the hub body and the ratchet on the freehub driver, the opposite of how most wheels are set up. This turned out to be a flawed design because the aluminum alloy from which the hub shell is made, cannot withstand the stress/force/torque of pedaling, since it's concentrated in the pawl pockets; over time it bends/distorts them. This means the pawls don't line up perfectly against the ratchet; it still works but the pawls wear out faster. So most other wheels that do it the reverse way (pawls on the freehub driver and ratchet in the hub body) are like that for good reason. Having the ratchet in the hub body evenly distributes the stress/force/torque of pedaling.
So I'm looking around LBS and other sources for a new hub shell and driver body. It's SRAM XX1 11 speed, 28 straight-pull spokes, 142mm dropout spacing, 12/15 mm (inner/outer) through-axle, 6902 bearings. Ideally with same hub effective outer spoke hole diameter so I can use the same spokes. But if not, not big deal, spokes aren't that expensive.