Mower suggestion needed

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My sister managed to bend the crank on her mower hitting a loose patio brick. Her old mower was a self propelled 21" Troy-Bilt.
Her yard isn't slopped much and takes maybe 45 minutes to mow, not including trim work. She is in good shape, in her 30's, 5'11" but only 135 pounds. Is a push mower a bit much for her? I'm thinking the cheapest Honda mower which is a push model would be a reliable choice assuming she could handle it.
 
I'd think she would be fine pushing a mower around; but I'd leave that call up to her.
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Can she do a trial run? I mean, been eons since I pushed one around; can you just push the mower with the drive off? I guess it's not running so all the easier, perhaps. Just push it around the worst parts and see if she thinks she can't hack it for the 45 minutes it takes.
 
Originally Posted By: skyactiv
My sister managed to bend the crank on her mower hitting a loose patio brick. Her old mower was a self propelled 21" Troy-Bilt.
Her yard isn't slopped much and takes maybe 45 minutes to mow, not including trim work. She is in good shape, in her 30's, 5'11" but only 135 pounds. Is a push mower a bit much for her? I'm thinking the cheapest Honda mower which is a push model would be a reliable choice assuming she could handle it.


I'd spend more and get self propelled. The cost difference is not that much. It she wants the extra cardio I'm sure she can find something less back breaking than pushing around a mower. If she doesn't hit something again, the mower should last 10+ years and she will be glad she got the self propelled.
 
If Shopping Honda you will find it is not much more for the self propell. It is $40 diff. (349 vs 389) for the HRS. $10 (389 vs 399) for the HRR. Your budget, your decision but the HRR is enough mower to make the chore pleasurable for not very much money over the base HRS. Plus it has the variable self propell.

Stick to the Hondas tho. You will be glad you did...

What you don't want to do is save a small amount of money on a tool no one wants to use. If it is even a question get the self-propell. I have had this conversation countless times with folks and those that don't listen universally regret the decision.

Make sure to take advantage of the extended warranty promotion Honda is doing right now. I believe they extend the warranty a year if you register so that is four years total.
 
Originally Posted By: Lubener
Go self propelled, the price difference isn't much.
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Yep I agree. My yard onlt takes about 20 minutes and I use a self propelled Troy bilt.
 
Get a front wheel drive mower which is easier to handle than rear. You only have to tilt mower to pause or stop; otherwise with rear drive you have to keep dropping the handle or whatever is used to put it in drive. My 2 cents worth.
 
Originally Posted By: tc1446
Get a front wheel drive mower which is easier to handle than rear. You only have to tilt mower to pause or stop; otherwise with rear drive you have to keep dropping the handle or whatever is used to put it in drive. My 2 cents worth.


This is true. However I have found it doesn't take very long to master rear wheel drive. I think it is more a function of what one is used to. Many of the drive controls on the newer mowers are so intuitive that disengaging the drive to turn comes easily.
 
I'd buy a good USED self propel mower. You can find really good ones for cheap on Craigslist, and if she hits another patio brick it won't hurt the wallet so bad.
 
Originally Posted By: tc1446
Get a front wheel drive mower which is easier to handle than rear. You only have to tilt mower to pause or stop; otherwise with rear drive you have to keep dropping the handle or whatever is used to put it in drive. My 2 cents worth.


i would say the exact opposite. based on my experiences.
I've never used a FWD self propelled that i liked. i can never get the speed control right.
last year dad bought a RWD mower with about 8" rear wheels. BEST push mower i've ever used. no trouble pacing it.

now, the differences Could just be down to the drive controls.
the FWD models i've used, were just another loop handle, similar to the safety/kill one.
the magic RWD model, is more of a "personal paced" unit, whee the drive lever slides back/forth, to move with you. basically.
 
Originally Posted By: apwillard1986
However I have found it doesn't take very long to master rear wheel drive. I think it is more a function of what one is used to. Many of the drive controls on the newer mowers are so intuitive that disengaging the drive to turn comes easily.


I agree. I've used an old Lawn Boy rear-drive for so long that I don't even think about disengaging the drive when needed...I just naturally do it.
 
She may have just broken the shear pin on the drive shaft. I replaced one on an old mower of mine years back and it wasn`t that difficult to do.
 
Toro personal pace is usually loved by most folks that try it.

As someone that used to have a small engine shop, and used to buy and sell equipment for a profit, my best advice is to use Search Tempest to search all the Craigslist adds in your area. Find a nice gently used Toro Super Recycler. They sell new for $600-$650 and I can routinely buy them used for $100 to $150, or even $200ish for an almost brand new one or two year old model. These are exceptional mowers, and a gently used $200 one is eons better than any new mower at the big box store.

Look at this as an example. Very clean.

https://lakeland.craigslist.org/grd/6098247434.html
https://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/for/6068440861.html
 
Update: She went to Menards and bought a Brute 21" self propelled mower, one without a rear bagger. She had a gift card she wanted to utilize to help pay for it. She looked at a Honda and didn't want to spend the money on one.
 
Originally Posted By: skyactiv
Update: She went to Menards and bought a Brute 21" self propelled mower, one without a rear bagger. She had a gift card she wanted to utilize to help pay for it. She looked at a Honda and didn't want to spend the money on one.


My mom got one of those....it broke twice in the first year. The self propel cable engagement cable snapped and the engine kill cable stretched.
 
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