Use the Victor type spring and bar traps, but take a good look at them before you set them out. I don't know if the terminology I'm using here is correct, but if you have the trap in your hand while you read this you should be able to figure it out.
You will notice the trigger & bait bar ... this is where you place the bait, and which holds the single wire that keeps the spring-loaded trap bar in place when the trap is set for action.
The biggest problem with these traps is they are not that sensitive, and it's common for mice to be able to eat the bait without triggering the trap. You don't want this.
There is an area on the trigger & bait bar that holds the single wire when the trap is set. You need to tweak this with a pair of needle nose pliers, so that what you end up with is a "hair trigger" that will allow you to set the trap, but no more.
You should find that you can barely put the trap down in the area you want to set it, without having the trap go off. If that's the case, you've got it modded correctly.
To release the trap (to put on more bait, for example), simply pick it up and drop it a few inches. It will go off.
You want to bait the trap with Peanut Butter. It's aroma travels well, mice can't resist. I usually apply it with a toothpick. Don't be afraid to pack it in there, mice will keep trying to eat it until it's all gone, insuring they do in fact trigger the trap.
Place traps in areas where the mice travel ... they will create scent trails that other mice will follow, which is convenient for us. Typically along walls.
There are a few other aspects of "mouse or rat life" that is important to someone trying to trap them. They *need* water. These rodents will die if they cannot access water in about three days (or less). They can go without food for a week, but not without water. So see if you can eliminate water sources ... dripping pipes, for example.
If they can get outside in warm months, they will probably be able to find water, but they much prefer to find it indoors, and in winter, that's the only place they normally find it. So eliminate the sources of water. They don't need much ... a few drops per mouse is fine ... but they do need it.
Continue to set and bait your traps for two weeks after you think you have killed them all. Their litters might survive after all support is gone (you've killed momma) and won't venture out to where you notice them for a while.
They can have litters in a fairly short time after being born ... so if you let things get out of hand, you will be facing numbers that will make an exterminator mandatory. So don't delay in getting after them.
Find out if Hanta Virus is active in your area (I might be spelling it wrong, but it is pronounced as I've written it; Google if you need more info, as Google will correct spelling errors).
If so, you should seriously consider calling in a professional, as humans who breathe the dust (dried fecal matter) from mouse habitat can experience fatal reactions within 24 hours.
Glue Traps certainly are effective at trapping mice, but you are left with a living mouse. You want a dead mouse. So, that means either you kill it yourself (drowning works fine) or get someone to kill it for you. DO NOT release live mice outside ... they will just move back into your or someone else's house. So, I don't recommend glue traps.
There are also live release traps ... same as previous paragraph. You want them dead, not becoming a nuisance to someone once again.
Finally there is always poison, but even though I want the mice whom infest my home dead, I'm not into killing them cruelly; a mousetrap should dispatch the rodent reasonably quickly. Poisoned mice crawl off and die inside your walls, and it can take up to about two years for the mummified mouse to turn into a mouse skeleton.
Worse, though, in my opinion, is the method of death ... it is extremely painful and prolonged for the mouse. There is no need for that when we can avoid it, and we can, so we should. Also, it presents a danger to pets ... yours or someone else's.