MOTUL or Castrol engine flush question

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Dec 19, 2021
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There is no way around it I may need an engine/oil flush treatment. I will go for MOTUL engine clean 300ml bottle (which is added to 5L of old oil in engine).

QUESTION:
Won't the fact that you can never get 100% of old oil out, mean that your new oil will be mixing with say 10% of old oil + whatever engine flush chemical I pour?

Essentially compromising the new oil?

Thank you for any expert input :)
 
Hello,
Audi TT 2.0TFSI (EU market), 57,000miles, LONG drain interval (every 2 years or 18k miles. Although I tend to drive a lot less miles yearly and just end up changing it because of 2 year interval).

I used to use Castrol EDGE Titanium LL. Although I learned that the supplier that sold me oil for the past 2 changes sales "fakes".

Given that it's been 2 years since my last change and some 12k miles, and using god knows what "oil". I want to put 100% genuine MOTUL 8100+Clean in it.

But I dont want my new oil to work double time in god knows what engine conditions.

A simple 1 time flush by reputable manufacturer like MOTUL wont hurt.
 
Would be nice if you could look in the oil fill hole and see what it looks like. Personally I don't like super long drain intervals. I think maybe you should run two shorter oil and filter changes for 5-6000 kms and have a look at the old filters to see if they are catching any particles.
 
JC1,
That is one way to do it. But it requires both time and is hella expensive. No oil cleans the engine as good as the chemical that is dedicated for the job sadly. There are oils that keep the engine clean. Oil flush is the best "nuclear option" when you done f-ucked it up somewhere. :(

The engine is in good health. I just had the misfortune of running long interval on most likely "fake Castrol". I will however check the oil fill hole with my mechanic to see. But Im not sure how much you can see there. Don't you usually have to take the engine cylinder head to really "See the damage"?

I'm mostly concerned now to taint the new oil. Since I want the new oil to work in as clean and optimal conditions as possible. :)
 
Yes. Some residual flush and old oil remains but it really won't compromise the oil any more than every oil change has some old oil mix with new oil.
Thats what Im hoping to minimize. Ok you only add 300ml of the stuff on top of 5L oil. Its most likely going to be all out.
 
I'm mostly concerned now to taint the new oil. Since I want the new oil to work in as clean and optimal conditions as possible. :)
Why don't you just change the oil and filter, drive it 4 or 5 miles, then change the oil again and drain the filter. That should get 95% of the old oil out without having to worry about any flush left inside. If you're really OCD, repeat a 3rd time for 99% effectiveness.
 
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Hello,
Audi TT 2.0TFSI (EU market), 57,000miles, LONG drain interval (every 2 years or 18k miles. Although I tend to drive a lot less miles yearly and just end up changing it because of 2 year interval).

I used to use Castrol EDGE Titanium LL. Although I learned that the supplier that sold me oil for the past 2 changes sales "fakes".

Given that it's been 2 years since my last change and some 12k miles, and using god knows what "oil". I want to put 100% genuine MOTUL 8100+Clean in it.

But I dont want my new oil to work double time in god knows what engine conditions.

A simple 1 time flush by reputable manufacturer like MOTUL wont hurt.
how did you find out that happened?
 
Why don't you just change the oil and filter, drive it 4 or 5 miles, then change the oil again and drain the filter. That should get 95% of the old oil out without having to worry about any flush left inside. If you're really OCD, repeat a 3rd time for 99% effectiveness.
Hmmm, maybe with a cheaper one to be used for that intermittent step.
That could work.
 
how did you find out that happened?
Well 2 things.

1.I noticed that my last 2 cans of oil while being “genuine”, had puncture marks and signs that they were cut in to.

Basically, some disributors buy original oil. Extract the genuine oil via small holes that they bore in to the packaging. Replace it with cheap junk. And then glue/plug the hole.
No seal tampering, the cap is untouched…yet the oil is fake as f-uck inside.

2. Went to ask few people in the business and show them the containers. They confirmed it. Both that the cans were tampered and that the distributor that sold me is bad. (Now are they in on it or not is the golden question). They do offer all the oils at 10-15$ cheaper…
 
Well 2 things.

1.I noticed that my last 2 cans of oil while being “genuine”, had puncture marks and signs that they were cut in to.

Basically, some disributors buy original oil. Extract the genuine oil via small holes that they bore in to the packaging. Replace it with cheap junk. And then glue/plug the hole.
No seal tampering, the cap is untouched…yet the oil is fake as f-uck inside.

2. Went to ask few people in the business and show them the containers. They confirmed it. Both that the cans were tampered and that the distributor that sold me is bad. (Now are they in on it or not is the golden question). They do offer all the oils at 10-15$ cheaper…
What country is this in?
 
You'll be fine just doing the change to Motul X-Clean+ or doing the Motul flush and change.
There won't be enough left over whatever to cause any trouble. If it was going to, you'd have seen it with a full sump of the unknown stuff.
The Motul smells like it's got a good bit of Esters, so will continue to clean after the change.
I've got X-Clean+ in my Mercedes now. Freebie from a friend, I normally use Edge C3. Short term I don't see any difference in drivability or performance.

.
 
Just flush it otherwise it costs 3 times as much, takes 3 times longer and it still doesn't work as well unless you fork out for a engine flush oil. The new flushes are quality products these days. They do not effect the new oil.
 
What country is this in?
Serbia (Eastern Europe). In general Europe as a whole got hit by some large scale fakes recently. So many more countries affected. Since CASTROL is made in different countries. None of them are what I call "reputable" and "non corrupt"
Just flush it otherwise it costs 3 times as much, takes 3 times longer and it still doesn't work as well unless you fork out for a engine flush oil. The new flushes are quality products these days. They do not effect the new oil.
That's what I'm gonna do. That's what my feeling was. Flushing engine every time might be an overkill. But 1 every 60,000miles...why not...and its not like the car has super high mileage. Like you said new products are less aggressive now.
You'll be fine just doing the change to Motul X-Clean+ or doing the Motul flush and change.
There won't be enough left over whatever to cause any trouble. If it was going to, you'd have seen it with a full sump of the unknown stuff.
The Motul smells like it's got a good bit of Esters, so will continue to clean after the change.
I've got X-Clean+ in my Mercedes now. Freebie from a friend, I normally use Edge C3. Short term I don't see any difference in drivability or performance.

.
Good to hear! Then it's settled!
 
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