Motul 300V?

bluemax1 · Dec 27, 2006

Has anyone here tried Motul 300V for racing? I'm currently using Redline 10w40 and was thinking of trying Motul 300V.

I've found some folks here who've used Redline (decent results from the looks of it), but wasn't sure if anyone's tried 300V.

'94 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4
modified 3.1 liter
forged crank
Crower rods
Ross pistons
King dry-film coated bearings with 0.0015" oil clearance

twin Evo 3 16G turbo setup
550 all-wheel HP @ 20psi

Any thoughts/advice?

Max

Black Bart · Dec 27, 2006

bluemax1
I read all the posts in your original post about this and I have a similar situation. Hope this one don't turn into a P@$%! contest like the other one did.
I'm sure no expert on oil but I think many here want to base what you need on what they do with their cars. Just because a oil gives outstanding UOA on a street driven car don't mean it is the best choice for racing.
Talking about what Nascar uses means nothing those guys want to make the most power but only worry about lasting till the end of the race. If you want to install a new engine every 500 miles then what they use maybe of some help.
I have a supercharged and Nitrous injected 406cid engine in a Corvette and when I built it I used a standard pressure oil pump because all the builders of performance engines said that is what I should use. Well with 55psi and 15w50 M1 the main bearing were into the copper in 5000 miles and this was just used for street driving and occasionally driven hard. I put in new bearings and installed a new HVHP pump and 5 years later it is still going strong. This year I will be using 10w40 Red Line my bearings are 002. Sure I lost some net power output by using the HVHP pump but the engine will live much longer If you can afford to build a new engine after a couple of road races then go with the thin stuff like some suggested in the other thread but if you want it to last you need to maintain a film between the bearings. If you use a thiner oil than you have been using you may want to consider a high volume pump to maintain pressure because the thin stuff will flow through the bearings faster which is good to remove heat but you must maintain enough pressure to protect the bearings.
I"m basing this not on a good UOA but on actual experience with high output engines.

bluemax1 · Dec 28, 2006

Agree wholeheartedly with your post. Unfortunately, no one on my platform has found anyone who makes a high volume pump for the 6G72 engine. There have been folks trying to convince people to make them but still no luck so proper oil selection is even more crucial for me as there simply aren't many other options.

At the moment, someone is working on a full dry sump conversion but that is going to cost about $3k -$4k and isn't even an available option yet.

It seems like Redline is a good oil for my application. So far, it's proven to be pretty good. But as always, I'm curious if there's something better out there (300V?) and was hoping some folks here might have experience with it, especially in high stress/load engines.

It seems ZDDP and moly are crucial elements to protection for highly stressed engines and 300V has a good amount of it. I'm also curious about their claimed improved di-ester formula, but it seems it's not a commonly used oil here. I've only found ONE UOA for Motul 300V 10w40 from a Porsche and it looked promising. Some have tried the 5w40 and although that seems like a decent oil for extended OCI use, it's not what I'm looking for under track conditions.

I'm also unsure if Motul's 5w40 suffers the same problem Redline's 5w40 does, i.e. it's one of the few Redline oils that has viscosity modifiers that could potentially be subject to shear. That's why I'm using Redline's 10w40 at the moment. Motul tech's first recommendation was their 300V 10w40 Chrono from describing my engine specs and power output.

Might have to be a guinea pig in this case and do comparative UOA's for Redline and Motul 300V 10w40.

Max

Black Bart · Dec 28, 2006

At the moment, someone is working on a full dry sump conversion but that is going to cost about $3k -$4k and isn't even an available option yet.

Dam that is outrageous$$$$$$ . GM has a new small block that they will release on March 31,2007 it can be used as a dry sump or wet. It has 6 bolt mains and 6 head bolts per cylinder for added clamping force.
It can be made into 511 cid and this is the same dimensions of a LS1 small block.
Price is to be about $2000.00 that sure sounds like a bargain.
I was told that with a high volume pump that I would be recirculating the oil through the relieve valve but my valve is set at 70 PSI and at most driving I see 55 PSI so it takes everything that the HV pump can put out just to keep up with the oil lost through the bearings. I only see 70 PSI at the red-line just before I shift.
The Mega Buck racing teams can do things that make a little more power at the expense of engine life but I can not build a $50,000.00 engine every time I drive it so if I lost 5 HP in order to make it last then I must go that way.
Sorry that I can't help with any info on the Motul oil but I do understand your problem. A very highly stressed engine has different needs than what our grocery getter has.

unDummy · Dec 30, 2006

Redline, Motul, Amsoil, and most boutique oil companies, make excellent oils. I would not fear running Motul. Give them a couple of runs. Vpracingfuels still has their synthetic on sale in the 5w30, 10w40, 15w50 weights.

Gene K · Dec 30, 2006

bluemax1, as I stated in the other thread the 300V 10W-40 is a very popular oil in the AMA Supersport Series. It stands up to 16,000 rpm and transmission gears with a minimum of shearing. I dont know anyone that has car experience with it or other grades.

bluemax1 · Dec 30, 2006

Quote:

bluemax1, as I stated in the other thread the 300V 10W-40 is a very popular oil in the AMA Supersport Series. It stands up to 16,000 rpm and transmission gears with a minimum of shearing. I dont know anyone that has car experience with it or other grades.

Thanks. Looks like I might be the guinea pig for this. I guess it shouldn't be a problem seeing as Motul has a decent Motorsport history and the 300V oils are the actual oils used in some of the racing leagues (as opposed to some brands where they advertise their brand oils being used in racecars but don't tell you that the race oil isn't the same stuff you're buying OTS).

Max

gt0311 · Dec 31, 2006

Bluemax1 I have being using 300v chrono 10w 40 for over 18 months and love it and in my vr4 510 ph low boost setting , no problems at all ,oil temp is 180 to 215 before oil cooler . and also used a CM filter

bluemax1 · Jan 1, 2007

Quote:

Bluemax1 I have being using 300v chrono 10w 40 for over 18 months and love it and in my vr4 510 ph low boost setting , no problems at all ,oil temp is 180 to 215 before oil cooler . and also used a CM filter

Sweet! Do you have any UOA's for the 300V?

What kind of setup/mods do you have on your VR4? what kind of driving conditions? Street, roadrace, dragrace etc.? And are you a member of any 3/S specific forums?

Max

gt0311 · Jan 3, 2007

Quote:

Quote:

Bluemax1 I have being using 300v chrono 10w 40 for over 18 months and love it and in my vr4 510 ph low boost setting , no problems at all ,oil temp is 180 to 215 before oil cooler . and also used a CM filter

Click to expand...

Sweet! Do you have any UOA's for the 300V?

What kind of setup/mods do you have on your VR4? what kind of driving conditions? Street, roadrace, dragrace etc.? And are you a member of any 3/S specific forums?

Max

well this days only drive her on street , it lots of fun , and yes I go to 3si.org mods full build motor , heads headers custome td05 18g turbos { lot of work } trans acpt cardon drive shafts 14" big rotors 6 pistons calipers AP 1000 CC inj. upgrade ECU 2 fuel pump , lots and lots of more stuff . go fast parts

bluemax1 · Jan 4, 2007

gt0311, What's your 3si ID?

Max

Motul 300V?

Similar threads