Motorcycle Oil For Long Term Storage

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propuckstopper

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Hi everyone. I tried a search on this forum regarding my question, and came up with nothing. I think that this question may be of great interest to even those who don't ride motorcycles because it deals with long-term storage issues. So here goes:

I buy used motorcycle engines for my race car (it's a Lightning Sprint/Mini Sprint). I have a fair stock of these engines (four or five) and keep them in a storage room in the basement of my house to ensure a consistent year-round temperature.

When I buy these engines from a salvage yard and take delivery, I put them up on a stand and immediately change the oil and filter. I then remove the spark plugs and perform a compression check. Then, I spray a good shot of fogging oil (storage spray) into each cylinder. After this is done, it's off to the storage room until I need one.

My question is: What brand of oil in your opinion should be used in the engine when I change it before storage? I am looking for an oil that will give me the best "coating" on internal parts to prevent corrosion during long-term storage.

I am an Amsoil user when these engines are put to work, and I am sure the very same Amsoil Motorcycle Oil will work very well during storage. However, I am open to suggestions on a "coating oil" that may be just as good for storage only.

Don't forget, the minute I need to put an engine to work I bolt it in the chassis then change the oil to Amsoil before starting it up. But I am not sure that I need the high quality Amsoil for storage.

Please enlighten me. I've rambled on enough. Thanks.
 
Since you only using the oil for storage purposes, and will change it out when an engine in put into service, I would think any oil that's on sale should do fine.
Regular mineral oil is a bit better at corrosion protection that synthetic.
If the engines aren't started, why put oil in them at all?
 
While a HDEO or any oil probably would do just fine, I'm not at all believing that conventional is better than a purpose designed synthetic for storage. The difference is not the base oil, it's the additive system. If you are looking for top of the line, you want a well formulated oil that has and above average amount of anti-corrosion additives, such as ASE, WCT, WCF. Link to ASE for example
 
I would use a cheap oil myself, especially in a controlled temperature and humidity environment. I would look at how the motor is made. If there are seals and joints I wanted to keep fresh I would consider overfilling if it would keep them wet.
 
It sounds like what you're doing is perfect. However, here's a wild thought since you're looking for the best "cling to the metal" oil for long time storage and you plan on draining it before running your engine.

How's about chainsaw bar oil? It's basically a SAE-30 oil without detergents, but with some sorta "cling-on" additive. It clings and stays. Since there are no operating contaminants being added to the oil, contaminant fighting additives are irrelevant. You would have to start the engine for only a few seconds to get the stuff spread around inside the crankcase before fogging and cocooning the engine.
 
I agree with dwendt44. All the oil will seep down into the pan after a couple of days. Thus no corrosion protection. So why have oil in there at all if those engines aren't running?
 
Originally Posted By: V1
I agree with dwendt44. All the oil will seep down into the pan after a couple of days. Thus no corrosion protection. So why have oil in there at all if those engines aren't running?


And that is exactly what I am wondering. These engines are in a pretty much perfect storage situation (controlled temperature and humidity, for the most part). So, maybe I don't need the oil at all. But does "all" of the oil really fall to the pan eventually? Doesn't a light film remain on the internals?

I was thinking of using something quality (and cheap) for this purpose in the future and what was on my mind was the petroleum-based Rotella products. Then, when the engine goes in the chassis, I go back to the Amsoil 10W-40 Motorcycle Formula.

The last engine I just put to bed in the storage room got Valvoline Synpower 5W-30. The only reason is I got a bunch of it on sale a long time ago and only had three quarts left, which is exactly what the engine oil capacity is.

I realize that the 5W-30 Synpower is an energy-conserving oil that might make the wet clutch slip, but I am not worried because this oil will be changed to Amsoil before it gets fired up. Kind of a waste of perfectly good oil, but it keeps my mind at ease. I'll probably give the drained oil to my neighbor.

By the way, our web site is http://www.nlsprints.com if anyone is interested.
 
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Did I read somewhere that dino oil clings to metal parts better than synthetic? I also read somewhere (I think on http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/) that the diesel engine oils are better for storage because of their additive package.

Therefore, I am wondering if the dino 15w40 diesel oils are the best for storage both in protection and in cost ($11 a gallon).

Can anyone comment?
 
Storing your engines in a controlled climate is indeed a very beneficial factor. However, any microscopic film of oil clinging to the internals will only take you so far.

I've watched some very young piston aircraft engines get torn down due to lack of use. The pitting on the internals was just too extensive. Although not air conditioned, some of these airplanes were stored in hangars.

How feasible would it be to literally top off the engines with oil? Since they won't be running, why not fill them up all the way? You could almost guarantee that everything will stay coated in oil. Except maybe underneath the pistons where some air gets trapped. Even so, you can just tilt the engine upside down to let the air escape. Just an idea.
 
In my case....topping off is not an option, as I try to ride the bike in Winter once or twice a month, if the weather allows.

I think I will just find an oil that has a very high TBN and is reasonably priced. Leaning toward Delvac 1300 15w40 at about $11 a gallon.
 
For engines that will not be run fill them all the way up as far as possible with cheap thin viscosity automotive or HDEO oil. Spray upper cylinders & intakes & fuel system components liberally with marine fogging oil. Spray exterior parts with G-96 gun treatment or Boeshield. I have stored marine engines for up to 48 months in unheated garages like this with no adverse results. For commissioning use HDEO to flush internals and gumout on the fuel systems 1oz per 1 gallon of fuel for the first 3 gallons burned. Change the flush oil after 1 hour of use.
 
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Hi,
propuckstopper - A good multi purpose 15W-40 (or SAE 20, SAE30) HDEO formulated for agricultural use is a great choice. Ensure that it has a Vapour Phase Inhibitor (VPI) additive in it.

A number of Oil Companies produce these. The VPI is a slow release vapour that assists in preventing corrosion above any oil level line

No need for an expensive lubricant!
 
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From my gut feeling I think Drew is on the right track. The problem is corrosion and possibly seals drying out but nothing else that I can see. My thought was to devise a way to keep the engines above the surrounding temperature so that the humidity and atmospheric pressure changes coupled together wouldn't have a chance to introduce moisture into or onto the engine due to "breathing" every time the barometric pressure changes. I live in North Texas, and have seen what a change in temp under humid conditions can cause. Things with liquid in them (oil included) literally are dripping with sweat under the right conditions. Bagging with that VP emitter along with interior oil to keep the seals lubricated might be the answer. If you use Amsoil the quality is there to last probably more effectively than the "cheap" stuff. I know on mothballed Navy ships they keep the humidity down around 4 percent to preserve the interior. The VP emitter should accomplish the same thing just through another avenue.
Steve
 
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