Motorcraft FL-820s C&P

BrendanC

$100 site donor 2024
Joined
Nov 27, 2023
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Location
Houston, TX
2020 F250 7.3 godzilla king ranch 61k miles
training managers work truck
in service 7100 miles

out/off: 8 quarts dealer 5w-30 with FL-820s

in/on: 1.5 quarts HPL EC30 and 6.5 quarts Valvoline EP HM 5w-30 with carquest premium 85372 (PG with silicone gasket)

can’t believe ford sticks their names on these.

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What is the problem here? All I see is some dirt in the filter where it's supposed to be instead of in the engine. Going 7,100 miles doesn't do it any favors.
 
What is the problem here? All I see is some dirt in the filter where it's supposed to be instead of in the engine. Going 7,100 miles doesn't do it any favors.
17% remaining on the OLM.
long wavy insanely spaced pleats, excess glue everywhere. just crazy when you can get a CQ premium for cheaper that will look like the day it went in at the same mileage.
 
long wavy insanely spaced pleats, excess glue everywhere.

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And from some YT videos showing that same black glue, it comes off pretty easily. Whip City had a good video showing that. And it's usually on the end cap right by the base plate bypass valve, like in your 2nd set of photos ... not a good situation IMO. That, and typically closed louvers on the Motorcrafts lately, and the amount of media area has also decreased by a lot (~40% less) is why I went a different route on the Coyote.
 
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Be that as it may, Ford thinks is good enough for engines under warranty. And if you change the oil at 5,000 miles, most any filter is fine.
couldn’t pay me to own a ford warranty or not so that doesn’t say much to me.
 
2020 F250 7.3 godzilla king ranch 61k miles
training managers work truck
in service 7100 miles

out/off: 8 quarts dealer 5w-30 with FL-820s

in/on: 1.5 quarts HPL EC30 and 6.5 quarts Valvoline EP HM 5w-30 with carquest premium 85372 (PG with silicone gasket)

can’t believe ford sticks their names on these.

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It held up. Thank You for cut and post
 
I think I like a metal end-capped nylon E-Core better than this. How does MC/Ford get this bad of QA from M+H lol.

couldn’t pay me to own a ford warranty or not so that doesn’t say much to me.
Warranties are useless.. Long long story short, had a 2021 PowerBoost bought brand new thru A-Plan, went to dealer 5x thru 2021, had multi-module failure, parts on galactic backorder and no-one knew how to fix. Had to lemon law.

Since then my experience then has been that a 300k Tahoe is more reliable than a new Ford.
 
Compared to many other 820S anecdotes posted, most with less miles, this one looks pretty good at a healthy 7100 miles. Like it got job done. In the case of the 820S, it's all relative.

Thanks for c&p.
 
And from some YT videos showing that same black glue, it comes off pretty easily. Whip City had a good video showing that. And it's usually on the end cap right by the base plate bypass valve, like in your 2nd set of photos ... not a good situation IMO. That, and typically closed louvers on the Motorcrafts lately, and the amount of media area has also decreased by a lot (~40% less) is why I went a different route on the Coyote.

What are you using on your Coyote ?
 
Going to try a MircoGard Select from O'Reilly. No louvers, and more efficient than the Motorcraft to boot.

Make sure filter center tube has large holes for when that Coyote purring like a kitten at 7500 RPMs. ;)
 
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Make sure filter center tube has large holes when that Coyote purring like a kitten at 7500 RPMs. ;)
Big holes ahoy ... no worries about too much dP. And found out the bypass valve is set to 22 PSI which is good for a Coyote. The Motorcraft FL500S bypass valve is 17 PSI per info from Purolator.

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