MOTORCRAFT AND PURE ONE...THE SAME?

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I think at this point, there isn't a filter that someone hasn't reported startup noises with.
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Really, I think it just comes down to figuring out what works in your application. For me, its a Wix/Napa Gold/Carquest Premium.
 
"I think at this point, there isn't a filter that someone hasn't reported startup noises with."

Yep, I think so. Started the car this morning and the temp was -8F to -15F depending on which thermometer you believe. My Sentra 2.5L made a bad clacking/lifter noise for the first 5+ seconds. Turned over the slowest to date so far as well this year.

Not gonna get rid of my Hastings filters, though.
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Funny, but a couple days ago it was -14F to -21F and the car seemed more willing to turn over. Didn't notice the noise, either.

The used oil analysis on this stuff (Red Line 5W30) should be awfully interesting this spring.
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--- Bror Jace
 
All:
My Saab 900S, 2.3 liter (1995 model year) specs the Purolator PF53-sized filter. The older generation 900, and 9000 models with the same engine used to spec the PF13-sized filters! I know I can use the L10241, PL10241 (i think those are the numbers), the L and PL14670 sized filters, as these are PF13 sized. The FL1A-sized filter is great for increasing oil sump capacity, but the end of the unit, when in place, is too close in my opinion to my O2 sensor for my comfort, so I wanted other alternatives to the PF13-sized 14670, and with silicon anti-drain valves.

The Ford FL400S is identical in spec to the PF53 sized filter, but is "taller", ie, has more filtering, with the same 3/4-16 thread, but with a silicone ADBV. And they are cheap at $2.77 at Walmart.

And no, I'm not going back to Mann's--who needs to ship them from Sweden when a perfectly acceptable quality substitute is available and made here in the good old USA. I'll keep the car, though!
 
quote:

Originally posted by Bror Jace:
"I think at this point, there isn't a filter that someone hasn't reported startup noises with."



Funny, but a couple days ago it was -14F to -21F and the car seemed more willing to turn over. Didn't notice the noise, either.



--- Bror Jace


The effects of the cold get to be a cumulative thing. After many days of really cold starts, constant high draw eletrical items running (heater and defosters), etc... it takes a real toll on the battery!

Scary thing is I actually an jealous that you have real cold weather - thats our normal January weather you've stolen!
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quote:

Originally posted by n8wvi:
How can the bypass valve be on the threaded end? What would it look like. Can anyone post a picture??? It seems like this makes much more sense, I've just only seen the other type, as on my Purolator 14459, 14460, & 24458.

Dave


Here is link to a thread with a thread-end bypass. This, in theory, prevents the bypassed oil from passing buy the dirty side of the filter and picking up junk before returning the the engine unfiltered.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=001119
 
I've seen Fords come from the factory without a motorcraft filter.

One ranger had a white Champion Labs filter with a black X on it.

-T
 
quote:

Originally posted by T-Keith:
I've seen Fords come from the factory without a motorcraft filter.

One ranger had a white Champion Labs filter with a black X on it.

-T


Ford uses a different filter from the factory. This is rumored to be a way for Ford to tell if you have changed your oil at least once. YOu wouldn't believe the number of people that buy a new car and just drive it. This idea would save the consumer hundreds to thousands every time he buys a new car.

It has also been rumored that champion recently lost this contract to another unknown manufacturer.
 
I do not know for a fact, but I suspect the Ford factory filter is also a little higher efficiency for the new engine break-in.

Ford likes a thread-end bypass because so many of their filters are mounted at an angle, like 45 degrees, and Ford thinks gunk and water can settle in the bottom end, and then flush back into the engine if the filter goes into bypass. The thread end design minimizes that possibility.

Probably a good design idea in those situations.
 
Motorcraft filters are PurOne cartridges in a Ford spec housing and the best deal for the best filter for any Ford. Why? Ford by pass valves are part of the filter. They are speced to be located at the base plate of the filter. Many, well most aftermarket filters for Fords do not have the by pass valve there, but rather in the bottom of the filter can so the oil in a by pass situation would wash over the pleats into the open BP valve, probably carrying dirt along into the engine. This cannot happen with the BP valve in the top of the filter at the base plate. Plus the Motorcraft filters mostly havea silicon ADBV and the advantage of a PurOne cartridge for under $3 at WalMart.
 
Is an fl400s supposed to be in by-pass at start up?
Just wondering why my truck had the WORST start up noise ever with this Motorcraft.
There is no noise with STP.
 
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