Motor Oil case (sludge & carbon) advice

[roge]

Originally Posted By: Olas
Drain and fill, go for a drive and get it HOT.

Drain oil and fill to the very top with diesel, drain after 24 hours

Fill with whatever LL01, idle for 5 minutes and drain.

Fill with preferred oil and carry on.


wow it sounds like an interesting procedure, have you done this with many vehicles?... I'm worried a little bit if the Diesel residue might cause any damage

 

[FlyPenFly]

Originally Posted By: roge
Originally Posted By: FlyPenFly
With an engine that dirty, I would do 3 or 4 quick interval oil changes (500 miles) and before each oil change use something like LiquiMoly Engine Flush and alternate with Liquid Moly Oil Sludge Remover as well.

If you get a lot of oil loss still after, one thing that might help is ATP AT-205 seal reconditioner but I wouldn't use that until you do several cleaning cycles.


Thank you for your recommendation, I'll take a look at the LiquiMoly products, regards.


The idea is imagine you have a very dirty vase with a lot of gunk in it. You want to gently rinse out the vase to the capacity of what the water (oil) will hold.

In an engine, all oil have mild detergents in them and all oil have a carrying capacity for contaminants. Using engine oil and a mild flush is the safest way to clean out what you can short of disassembly. Just make sure to change the filter every 2-3k miles at least for the first few cycles.

 

[Oil_Flunky]

The easiest and safest solution IMO is a piston ring soak with Lube Control LC 20, Berryman B12 or whatever other carbon eating penetrating solution you have on the shelf, before every change of full synthetic whatever you choose oil @3000 miles. Do this until the symptoms disappear. Trav the member mechanic has a good sludger remedy also if you want to get more involved.

 

[Olas]

Originally Posted By: roge
Originally Posted By: Olas
Drain and fill, go for a drive and get it HOT.

Drain oil and fill to the very top with diesel, drain after 24 hours

Fill with whatever LL01, idle for 5 minutes and drain.

Fill with preferred oil and carry on.


wow it sounds like an interesting procedure, have you done this with many vehicles?... I'm worried a little bit if the Diesel residue might cause any damage


Done it many times. Diesel is a solvent and helps dissolve gunk, draining it before running it prevents any damage. The 5min idle with any ll01 allows oil to citculate and displace any remaining diesel and when you drain it you'll be disgusted and how chunky and smelly and nasty it comes out.

With all the goop out, fill with clean oil and carry on.

 

[RooflessVW]

My advise: change the oil with an LL01 oil and do 10k oil changes with 5k filter changes. The engine is dirty but most N52 are.

Clean the VANOS screens and motor on. If damage was going to happen it would have already happened.

 

[RooflessVW]

What is the oil consumption exactly? Excessive means different things to different people. Your loss of power/efficiency is likely caused by poor VANOS performance and spark plugs that need replacement. How long have you owned the car? When did the loss of performance begin? What is your actually fuel efficiency?

 

[askani79705]

I'd use Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 for a short OCI of 5k with a filter of your choice. That should clean you up safely and gradually. Clean out or replace the oil seperator depending on what you have,bad ventilation causes sludge.

 

[Crispysea]

Sodium, calcium, etc. are alkaline, and help neutralize the acid that builds up in the oil. Contamination with water and fuel raises acidity. Obviously, acid will damage metal, and also will increase sludge.

 

[Charlie2015]

Just use an LL01 oil and change it half the normal distance. Keep doing that until you are happy with the results.

 

[Click]

Amsoil's Euro formula 0W-40 (EFO product code) meets the specs you need of LL-01. Use with confidence.

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted By: Click
Amsoil's Euro formula 0W-40 (EFO product code) meets the specs you need of LL-01. Use with confidence.

At least you were careful with your wording, the spec it actually carries of course is Longlife-04. That is the only one for which I would use it with confidence.

Amsoil themselves caution that low or mid-SAPS oils should not be used in a Longlife-01 application. How does that work?

 

[Click]

Amsoil's Euro 5-30 (AEL) and 5-40 (AFL) carry the LL04 designation but also are titled "improved emissions" , while the 0-40 (EFO) and 5-40 (EFM) carry the LL1 with the designation "classic Emissions" . One only has to be sure to use the right one depending on what the owners manual calls for. Just showing the available options to the OP.

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted By: Click
Amsoil's Euro 5-30 (AEL) and 5-40 (AFL) carry the LL04 designation but also are titled "improved emissions" , while the 0-40 (EFO) and 5-40 (EFM) carry the LL1 with the designation "classic Emissions" . One only has to be sure to use the right one depending on what the owners manual calls for. Just showing the available options to the OP.

Once again at least you are being careful with your wording, but just to make it clear none of the oils actually have Longlife-01 certification. It is instead recommended by Amsoil for use where the certification is required.

You can't carry a "designation", you carry a certification.

 

[Click]

And to be more clear, oils do not 'need' any certification to do the job. Many oil companies do not put all their products through some expensive 'testing process' just to have different words on the bottle. If the engine maker puts out a specification for an oil, and the oil meets that spec., a consumer should not fear for their engine's life, either under warranty or out of warranty.

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted By: Click
And to be more clear, oils do not 'need' any certification to do the job. Many oil companies do not put all their products through some expensive 'testing process' just to have different words on the bottle. If the engine maker puts out a specification for an oil, and the oil meets that spec., a consumer should not fear for their engine's life, either under warranty or out of warranty.

They apparently put it through the "expensive testing process" to achieve Longlife-04 certification so why not do so for Longlife-01? Do you even know if it is possible for an oil to have both certifications at once?

Nothing I wrote is incorrect and doesn't use weasel words like your posts do. Consumers aren't in fear for their engine's life but do deserve to know the truth about whether an oil actually has a certification or not. The bottom line is how do I as a consumer know if the oil "meets" Longlife-01 unless the manufacturer has demonstrated that to be the case by obtaining certification?

Words mean things, especially on oil bottles. You can say otherwise but that doesn't make it incorrect. That oil has Longlife-04 certification but it does not have Longlife-01.

 

[Nickdfresh]

I would just use Mobil 1 0W-40, inexpensive and easily obtainable and a high detergent oil that will clean over time...

 

[Click]

Ive replied to the OP's original question with factual information that Im aware of. This board is for folks to assist each other in oil related questions. I did that. I didnt know there were "oil police" in here that try to impune facts from oil manufacturers. If someone wants to question an oil maker's reasoning, contact them. In the meantime, most folks that Ive ever known will accept the term 'meets specs' from reliable oil makers, whether they have been certified or not. These oils don't run afoul of the PQIA and will work fine in engines that require either LL01 or LL04 as stated above. The OP just has to confirm which oil his owners manual specifies. Now please move on. And I dont use weasel words or post false facts. Just an FYI !

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted By: Click
Ive replied to the OP's original question with factual information that Im aware of. This board is for folks to assist each other in oil related questions. I did that. I didnt know there were "oil police" in here that try to impune facts from oil manufacturers. If someone wants to question an oil maker's reasoning, contact them. In the meantime, most folks that Ive ever known will accept the term 'meets specs' from reliable oil makers, whether they have been certified or not. These oils don't run afoul of the PQIA and will work fine in engines that require either LL01 or LL04 as stated above. The OP just has to confirm which oil his owners manual specifies. Now please move on.

That is a paragraph of doublespeak and nothing else. Please, tell me which of the PQIA tests indicate compliance with Longlife-01?

What's especially amusing (besides telling me to "run along") is that you, a former Amsoil dealer is making up more than even your former company does in their own spec sheets. Amsoil says the oil(s) are "engineered for use in gasoline or diesel vehicles that requires any of the following specifications". That is not saying that the oil carries the spec, only that it is their recommendation for those applications that may require the spec. The same Amsoil spec sheets also clearly state the specifications that the oils actually do carry. You however, are somehow trying to make it out to mean more than what is actually claimed in their own product information sheet.

Amsoil 0W-40 EFO carries no actual specifications but has a listing of specs for which Amsoil believes the oil is suitable for use. Amsoil 5W-40 AFL does have Longlife-04 approval (and others) and also has a listing of additional specs for which Amsoil believes the oil is suitable for use. Neither one of the oils has actual Longlife-01 approval. Those are the facts, you shouldn't take it so personal and of course the OP is free to choose an oil based on that information. But making it sound like there is anything more to the picture is disingenuous.

 

[Click]

I guess you forgot to include this from the spec sheet: " AMSOIL European Car Formula meets and often exceeds strict European manufacturer specifications. "
They don't just 'think' their oil is built to specs, it 'meets' them.
Lets let it go that you don't like Amsoil. I do. I trust their formulating ability, their data and manufacturing process. I hope the OP reads ALL the info. that's available to him and not rely on your spinning things away from what the manufacturer says in its entirety. They also happen to give a warranty on their products.
Now back to regular programming.

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted By: Click
I guess you forgot to include this from the spec sheet: " AMSOIL European Car Formula meets and often exceeds strict European manufacturer specifications. "
They don't just 'think' their oil is built to specs, it 'meets' them.
Lets let it go that you don't like Amsoil. I do. I trust their formulating ability, their data and manufacturing process. I hope the OP reads ALL the info. that's available to him and not rely on your spinning things away from what the manufacturer says in its entirety. They also happen to give a warranty on their products.
Now back to regular programming.

I have no animosity towards Amsoil products. In fact, I use their gear oil in my ECHO and in my BMW differential. In the past I have also used their ATF in my Sienna but now use a different product. That had nothing to do with performance only price and availability.

I actually do trust their formulating and manufacturing ability, as well as their ability to write a product spec sheet. I have spun nothing in anything I've said, if there is something other than either a direct quote from Amsoil or an incorrect statement please point it out.