I'm probably overly anal about oil type, oil filters, and oil change intervals, and I don't think that a few extra bucks for an oil change is really much of a concern when you are considering protection of your engine. I spend a few dollars more for my motor oil and filter and always get excellent performance and longevity from my Lincoln Town Cars. I consider oil, oil filters, and oci ito be d***ed cheap insurance compared to having to have an engine changed or (God forbid) buying a new car~!!. Light weight 100% synthetic oil and the best filter every 10,000 mile has served me very well for many, many miles and several cars.
Motor oil and oil filter cost.
- Thread starter dwcars
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Oil is a relatively very inexpensive part of car ownership IMO. I don't think everyone needs top tier synthetic oils, but it can't hurt to use them. I can never wrap my brain about people that buy new cars, then cheap out on oil because they want to save $1.00 per qt. To each their own.
Agreed. The people who pay astronomical amounts of money for name-brand fuel vs. lesser-known brands of top tier are the ones who truly waste their money, IMO.
I usually buy Kirkland synthetic and a good filter and I have had good luck. The Corvette usually gets a Mobil 1 or something a little more boutique and as Forest Gump states's "and that's all I have to say about that."
Count me as one that is conflicted on this subject.
With occasional exception, like the Kirkland that I'm using in my wife's Outback right now, I stay with the better motor oils. And I'm very particular about the filters that I use. I like to think that I am making better choices, that will reduce wear in the engines that are in my cars and yard machines.
That said, I have seen enough evidence, here on BITOG, to suspect that those who use jobber filters, and motor oil products that meet the API, SAE, and ILSAC standards, but are store brands, like Super Tech, also get excellent longevity out of their engines. Are these people as demanding out of their engines as I am? Maybe. Maybe not. I can't say. But I can say that many here have reported using products like Havoline and Super Tech, and have engines that are performing fine at 250k+ miles. Who am I to argue with the evidence?
Will this change the choices I make for my engines? Probably not. Because, even with the evidence, I think I'm taking better care of my cars. And, as you say, what is a few more dollars when it comes to maintenance on my cars.
With occasional exception, like the Kirkland that I'm using in my wife's Outback right now, I stay with the better motor oils. And I'm very particular about the filters that I use. I like to think that I am making better choices, that will reduce wear in the engines that are in my cars and yard machines.
That said, I have seen enough evidence, here on BITOG, to suspect that those who use jobber filters, and motor oil products that meet the API, SAE, and ILSAC standards, but are store brands, like Super Tech, also get excellent longevity out of their engines. Are these people as demanding out of their engines as I am? Maybe. Maybe not. I can't say. But I can say that many here have reported using products like Havoline and Super Tech, and have engines that are performing fine at 250k+ miles. Who am I to argue with the evidence?
Will this change the choices I make for my engines? Probably not. Because, even with the evidence, I think I'm taking better care of my cars. And, as you say, what is a few more dollars when it comes to maintenance on my cars.
Awesome
Situations that warrant a top tier synthetic:
Longer drain intervals
Cleaner engines
High performance engines
Extreme climates - hot/cold
I prefer top tier oil for peace of mind. If I can't get to an oil change, I won't have to worry much about it.
Longer drain intervals
Cleaner engines
High performance engines
Extreme climates - hot/cold
I prefer top tier oil for peace of mind. If I can't get to an oil change, I won't have to worry much about it.
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Thats what I though when I saw it..... I would be temped to buy some but I have used Mobil 1 since 1975 and am happy with it...Also the Royal Purple was NOT on clearance...
Several years ago, when Walmart quit carrying RP for a few years, I bought several jugs of RP HP 0W-20 when it was on closeout, and ran it in my wife's Outback for six oil change intervals. Did the engine run any noticeably quieter or smoother? No. Was fuel economy any different? No. Did the three UOA that I got while running RP look any different than the UOA's that I got while running Castrol Edge, Idemitsu, Pennzoil Platinum? Nope. Would I buy RP again? Sure. Next time it is on closeout for $4/jug.
Oil is cheap, engines are expensive.
I have been using Valvoline for a very, very long time, and currently its what...25$ for 5qts and recently started using Hengst filters, which are good value and seem to be good quality.
I debated using royal purple, or some other high performance oil, but going from 30$ an oil change to 100$ an oil change...for what? I would rather buy an engine that is proven to be a reliable platform (ex: 2GR, 2AR, A25A, J30/J35, 2UR, Any honda K motor).
I have been using Valvoline for a very, very long time, and currently its what...25$ for 5qts and recently started using Hengst filters, which are good value and seem to be good quality.
I debated using royal purple, or some other high performance oil, but going from 30$ an oil change to 100$ an oil change...for what? I would rather buy an engine that is proven to be a reliable platform (ex: 2GR, 2AR, A25A, J30/J35, 2UR, Any honda K motor).
in my gasoline powered auto's I have used Supertech synthetic since about 2005 or so... and the cheapest oil filter on the shelf.. every 10,000 mile OCI... has worked out well for me. honestly, I dont think brand of oil or filter matters.. essentially all of them perform the same when they meet the same specs and you follow a realistic maintenance interval...
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The only time I do oil analysis anymore is if I have questions about the relative health of the engine or need a baseline.
I buy all my oil when its either on sale or clearance, same with filters. I have little to no loyalty on either as long as it meets the spec and my research shows it has favorable ratings. I buy things when I dont need them so I have them when I do.
Right now I have a mix of kirkland 0W20 D1G3 for the car and a stash of GM D1G2 5W30 for the truck. In this mix is a couple std AC filters for the truck along with some Ultraguards. The car has a stash of Champion labs synthetic filters.
I can change the oil in the car for $21. No need to stretch oil changes at that price. Considering an analysis is $35 these days I just change it a little earlier than the OLM says and move on.
I buy all my oil when its either on sale or clearance, same with filters. I have little to no loyalty on either as long as it meets the spec and my research shows it has favorable ratings. I buy things when I dont need them so I have them when I do.
Right now I have a mix of kirkland 0W20 D1G3 for the car and a stash of GM D1G2 5W30 for the truck. In this mix is a couple std AC filters for the truck along with some Ultraguards. The car has a stash of Champion labs synthetic filters.
I can change the oil in the car for $21. No need to stretch oil changes at that price. Considering an analysis is $35 these days I just change it a little earlier than the OLM says and move on.
I run Supertech oil or whatever is on clearance and jobber filters, change at 7,000ish mile intervals, and the cars disintegrate around the drivetrain in the upper 200k mile range. The only "fancy" oil I go out of my way for is momto2's Volvo which requires A5/B5 so it's pretty much M1, Penz, or Castrol for her car.
Yes oil & good maintenance are very cheap compared to repair & replacement. When full syn is only a few dollars more than syn blend, it's not a hard decision. We're talking about $25 (or less) for oil and $5 for a decent filter. When oil service is done about every 8 months, that's $3.75 a month. I extend the service intervals a little, using an oversize filter and full syn oil where conventional is specified. Another reason to run full syn is that some examples of my engine have serious ring coking/sticking and oil consumption at higher mileage... she's at 185k and running perfect, want to keep it that way.
Any decent oil and filter, with 5K OCIs. I like a quality filter for 2 or 3 services. MityVac for the win! Easy peasey.
My 2000 silverado just recently turned over 257,000 miles. My dad bought the truck new back in the fall of 99 and I bought it from him in 2011. The truck has been serviced at the local Chevy dealer since it was new. I have every receipt for the oil changes that he had done and that I have had done. We live 5 minutes from the dealer so it’s convenient for us. Anyway moral of the story is the truck has seen a lot of towing over the years using nothing but the filter the dealer puts on and whatever oil they use I’m assuming ac delco atleast that’s what the invoice always says anyway. I have buddy’s that seem to think if they don’t dump Amsoil or redline in their trucks they will spontaneously explode or something. I’m not sure but this kind of mileage on oil from a tank from a dealer leads me to believe that for 99% of us the high performance boutique oils are a waste.
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