motor guard vs oil guard
- Thread starter LarryL
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LarryL-I will tell you what little I know. I researched all types of bypass filters before I installed a Motor Guard.
The Oil Guard is a great looking unit. I liked the small size and the spin on filter element.
The oil feed is taken from the oil pressure unit and the oil return can be sent to the Valve cover or an adapter returns the oil to the original drain plug. Or tapped into the oil pan, similar to the Frantz.
The Motor Guard can be installed using a sandwich adapter that has the oil feed and return through the adapter. And the filter element is toilet paper.
Since I did not want to take my Oil pressure unit off I went with the Moror Guard because of the ease, for me, of install.
My truck is still under warranty and if I have to take the bypass off for any reason, it will be as simple as taking the sandwich adapter off and putting on the spin on filter.
Both web pages are great and explain both units.
The Oil Guard is a great looking unit. I liked the small size and the spin on filter element.
The oil feed is taken from the oil pressure unit and the oil return can be sent to the Valve cover or an adapter returns the oil to the original drain plug. Or tapped into the oil pan, similar to the Frantz.
The Motor Guard can be installed using a sandwich adapter that has the oil feed and return through the adapter. And the filter element is toilet paper.
Since I did not want to take my Oil pressure unit off I went with the Moror Guard because of the ease, for me, of install.
My truck is still under warranty and if I have to take the bypass off for any reason, it will be as simple as taking the sandwich adapter off and putting on the spin on filter.
Both web pages are great and explain both units.
Either filter can be connected either way.
The Oil guard has a filter element with more dirt-holding capacity. It costs more, needs changing less often, and you'll use less make-up oil (and less replenishment of additives) due to fewer element changes. The Oil Guard doesn't have a spin-on element, just a threaded canister. I expect it to be a once-a-year element change.
Ken
The Oil guard has a filter element with more dirt-holding capacity. It costs more, needs changing less often, and you'll use less make-up oil (and less replenishment of additives) due to fewer element changes. The Oil Guard doesn't have a spin-on element, just a threaded canister. I expect it to be a once-a-year element change.
Ken
It looks like the MotorGuard has less surface area and more depth. The oil must travel through the immediate contact surface faster to get the approximate same volume of oil through the filter and back to the engine. It looks like the Oil Guard has more surface area and the oil will flow a lot slower through the immediate contact surfaces.
Is the reason a bypass filter works is because it moves the oil slowly through the filter media?
I worked in the gas and oil industry in the Mid-East and the conditions were hard on machenry. We got better performance out of oil/air/coolant/fuel filters by increasing the immediate contact area, like putting filters in parallel (larger contact area). We worked at this and it producted good results. Filters in series (depth) did not help the process.
Once there is enough depth of media to get the job done you must expand the contact surface area to improve the process. Expanding surface area always produced better results, not expanding depth.
So it looks like T.P. is cheaper than manufactured filters, but additional makeup oil is not. It looks like T.P. needs more attention, both sizing and installing and frequency of changes. For DIY the time and trouble is no great deal. And it looks like the MotorGuard is better suited to being installed in the driveway, a big deal to be sure. T.P. is the answer for DIY and dyno oil and driveway installation and Oil Guard is the answer for synthetic oil, professional installation and maintenance.
Am I getting closer to an answer....?
Is the reason a bypass filter works is because it moves the oil slowly through the filter media?
I worked in the gas and oil industry in the Mid-East and the conditions were hard on machenry. We got better performance out of oil/air/coolant/fuel filters by increasing the immediate contact area, like putting filters in parallel (larger contact area). We worked at this and it producted good results. Filters in series (depth) did not help the process.
Once there is enough depth of media to get the job done you must expand the contact surface area to improve the process. Expanding surface area always produced better results, not expanding depth.
So it looks like T.P. is cheaper than manufactured filters, but additional makeup oil is not. It looks like T.P. needs more attention, both sizing and installing and frequency of changes. For DIY the time and trouble is no great deal. And it looks like the MotorGuard is better suited to being installed in the driveway, a big deal to be sure. T.P. is the answer for DIY and dyno oil and driveway installation and Oil Guard is the answer for synthetic oil, professional installation and maintenance.
Am I getting closer to an answer....?
Sounds like a very good analysis to me. I have a Motor Guard on my 2003 Tundra and still use Mobil 1 5W/30. I am not a professional installer but I would not have any problems installing an OilGuard. The Motor Guard looked to be a better unit for me and I am satisfied with the results. Either one will provide very clean oil which seems to be better than the spin on filters that come with newer vehicles.
No one has ever been able to beat TP at cleaning oil. You can do all the talk you want but the facts are the same. The better the filter at cleaning oil and the smaller the filter the more often it needs to be serviced. It is easy to recommend longer filter change intervals but that doesn't mean your engine will last as long. The only competition the Motor Guard has when it comes to cleaning oil economically would be the other TP filters such as Frantz, Gulf Coast and a few other TP type filters. I am no differtent than anyone else I have my favorite filters. Mix some lamp black in oil and see if the Oil Guard can remove it on the first pass. If it can it is as good as TP. TP filters don't care if the oil is synthetic or conventional. Once you determine that the filter can remove lamp black on the first pass then you can get down to quality of the housing. Cost of the elements. How easy to change; spillage and that sort of thing. After over 40 years of using TP I don't plan on paying more and getting less than clean oil. If you want a big filter that cleans oil as well as TP buy a Luberfiner 750 housing or a Fleetguard LF750 housing and adapt it to take two rolls of Kleenex paper towels and three rolls of Scott 1000 sheet TP. you can put these large filters on a small engine if you orifice the inlet down to about 1/16" and remember that it holds four gallons of oil and you will need to shut down the engine and top off the engine a few times after you change the element. An LF 750 can handle a 750 HP diesel engine.
This is a submicronic filter because of the three rolls of TP. The Kleenex Viva isn't too shabby. Shell Oil, NASA, US Coast Guard and several Government Agencies use Gulf Coast paper towel filters. I have seen several government ratings on filters. As good as it is the Motor Guard is a little filter. I brought in the Fleetguard housing because it is big and has the advantages of a big filter.
Ralph
I would think that the very tightly wound industrial paper towells used in public restrooms, resturants and the like would be excellent.quote:
Originally posted by RalphPWood:
No one has ever been able to beat TP at cleaning oil. You can do all the talk you want but the facts are the same. The better the filter at cleaning oil and the smaller the filter the more often it needs to be serviced. It is easy to recommend longer filter change intervals but that doesn't mean your engine will last as long. The only competition the Motor Guard has when it comes to cleaning oil economically would be the other TP filters such as Frantz, Gulf Coast and a few other TP type filters. I am no differtent than anyone else I have my favorite filters. Mix some lamp black in oil and see if the Oil Guard can remove it on the first pass. If it can it is as good as TP. TP filters don't care if the oil is synthetic or conventional. Once you determine that the filter can remove lamp black on the first pass then you can get down to quality of the housing. Cost of the elements. How easy to change; spillage and that sort of thing. After over 40 years of using TP I don't plan on paying more and getting less than clean oil. If you want a big filter that cleans oil as well as TP buy a Luberfiner 750 housing or a Fleetguard LF750 housing and adapt it to take two rolls of Kleenex paper towels and three rolls of Scott 1000 sheet TP. you can put these large filters on a small engine if you orifice the inlet down to about 1/16" and remember that it holds four gallons of oil and you will need to shut down the engine and top off the engine a few times after you change the element. An LF 750 can handle a 750 HP diesel engine.
This is a submicronic filter because of the three rolls of TP. The Kleenex Viva isn't too shabby. Shell Oil, NASA, US Coast Guard and several Government Agencies use Gulf Coast paper towel filters. I have seen several government ratings on filters. As good as it is the Motor Guard is a little filter. I brought in the Fleetguard housing because it is big and has the advantages of a big filter.
Ralph
Or is that what you are talking about?
I had a little trouble getting the company to keep me supplied with Bounty big roll paper towels for the Gulf Coast filters. Their supplier didn't supply them. They did supply the Kimberly Clark wypall L-30. They are very high quality but are a little too small. I roll enough onto the roll to make them fit snug in the housing. One of my customers told me the Kleenex Viva was the same which makes it better for people that don't buy them by the case. For the big Fleetguard LF-750 I roll two rolls together to make a 7 1/2" element. Then I roll 3 rolls of Scott 1000 sheet together to make a shorter element and put them together to fit the big housing. That's a 750 HP element. The Kleenex paper clings to itself which makes it easier to roll. I have used several kinds, such as Sparkle.quote:
Originally posted by slider:
I would think that the very tightly wound industrial paper towels used in public restrooms, resturants and the like would be excellent.quote:
Originally posted by RalphPWood:
No one has ever been able to beat TP at cleaning oil. You can do all the talk you want but the facts are the same. The better the filter at cleaning oil and the smaller the filter the more often it needs to be serviced.
Ralph
Ralph
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