Motor Guard install/hollow bolt install on 6.0 PSD w/pics...

[LateArrivalforLSU]

Alright, I got my Motor Guard in and finally decided to punch the oil pan, install the hollow bolt, and install the Motor Guard bypass system (59 Vetteman actually punched my pan for me, I just crawled underneath and was a tool passer

).

Once 59 Vetteman got a small enough hole punched a small wire was inserted in the hole to ensure that there was no obstruction behind. The wire was inserted and there was nothing behind so we were good to go. By the way, the oil pan on the 6.0 PSD is thick walled and you really have to hit the shoulder puncher hard to make the hole large enough in order for the threads to start on the hollow bolt.

Ok, the hollow bolt is now installed. Time to start the install of the Motor Guard bypass.....I got my pressure from a special cap that Oil Guard makes for the 6.0 PSD (see pic). The oil is returned to the pan and I now have an easy to maintain bypass setup that will now drain out overnight and won't be messy to change.

I did have a Frantz installed, but really liked the setup and ease of TP changes that the Motor Guard offered.

Pic of bypass under the hood:

Pic of hollow bolt w/return line:

[ May 08, 2006, 11:01 AM: Message edited by: Go_Hogs_Go ]

 

[RalphPWood]

That is a beautiful job. In that installation the Tee handle would have an advantage. I get emails from people that say they couldn't find a place under the hood and had to mount the filter on the frame. I beefed up some for frame mount one bolt installation for a 6.0 Powerstroke. The filter will probably drain good but if it doesn't it is probably because it can't get air. You can loosen the tee handle when the filter is still hot to let air in.
I like the fitting in the lid on the 6.0. I put a paper towel filter on one and used 20 feet of hose. I tapped into the fill neck for a return and used a tee at the oil pressure switch. It was a hassle because the switch has hydraulic threads with an 0-ring. We learn together.

Ralph

 

[Bio-T]

Also looking at the picture, on the drain pan is a Fumoto with a nipple. So anyone wanting to know how far down it extends this is an excellent shot. Now you can also visualize how far a Fumoto without the nipple will extend. This a a 4 wheel drive so the Fumoto is well protected by the front axle.

Also anyone who puts a STHB on a Ford 6.0, make sure you drain out a minimum of 6 quarts of oil before you start the project. Don't ask me how I know.

 

[tperk100]

I purchased the kit from Ralph for my 04 F350 6.0.

I have a couple of questions.

Instead of $100 for a filter cap, could I just tap the factory cap?

Is there a fitting that would allow the cap to rotate without having to loosen the fitting /connection?

What size punch do I need to punch the pan?

Where can I buy the punch?

Thanks much,
Tom

 

[RalphPWood]

The first one I did I tapped into the fill neck for a return. I marked where I wanted to hook up the line then unscrewed the fill neck. For pressure I used the conventional T at the oil pressure switch. The Powerstrokes have a hydraulic type thread on the oil pressure switch. It has an 0-ring. I got the adapters from a hydraulic shop so that I could use a 1/8" tee. I wouldn't have any trouble tapping into the cap or the housing if it were my truck but I would be a little afraid to tell someone else how to do it.
Returning the oil to the oil pan is an old proven method. A lot of people are afraid to punch the pan. I have been talking to the guy that invented the self tapping hollow bolt back in the 50s. The shoulder punches are good but you can just keep making the hole larger until it is about 5/16". When a 5/16" bolt slides in you are ready for the self tapping hollow bolt. Its just a large metal screw with a female pipe thread. The main thing is to have the hoses where the filter can drain. If the filter can't drain it is a mess to change. Amsoil might have the shoulder punch. I just bought some self tapping hollow bolts from them. The original Amsoil filters hooked up the same as the Frantz and Motor Guard.

Ralph

 

[LateArrivalforLSU]

quote:

---

Originally posted by tperk100:
I purchased the kit from Ralph for my 04 F350 6.0.

I have a couple of questions.

Instead of $100 for a filter cap, could I just tap the factory cap?

Is there a fitting that would allow the cap to rotate without having to loosen the fitting /connection?

What size punch do I need to punch the pan?

Where can I buy the punch?

Thanks much,
Tom

---

Tom,

You should be able to drill and tap the factory oil filter cap. Granted, it's plastic and there might be a little concern with the threads properly sealing where the pressure line hooks up. I'm sure if you put some plumbers tape or pipe dope on the threads you shouldn't have a problem.

There really isn't a need for a swivel on the oil filter cap because the threads on the cap start to screw on in the same place on the filter housing everytime.

 

[tperk100]

Are you saying that, if I tap the factory cap, I will be able to remove it without disconnecting the oil line?

 

[tperk100]

Go Hogs,

I have had this filter for a year and have not yet installed it. I love where you have yours, but cannot for the life of me figure out how you mounted it. There are two holes in the battery tray but I doubt you used them, at least not with the standard M30 bracket. Did you have some sort of bracket/mount fabricated or what?

My F350 is an 04 model. Is yours?

Thanks again,
Tom

 

[LargeCarMan]

You might be able to just drill a hole for the Amsoil BP-89 Swivel Fitting. I don't know what the inside of the plastic cover looks like, but the Amsoil swivel would be the way to go if room allows inside the top of the oil pressure source area.

 

[LateArrivalforLSU]

quote:

---

Are you saying that, if I tap the factory cap, I will be able to remove it without disconnecting the oil line?

Go Hogs,

I have had this filter for a year and have not yet installed it. I love where you have yours, but cannot for the life of me figure out how you mounted it. There are two holes in the battery tray but I doubt you used them, at least not with the standard M30 bracket. Did you have some sort of bracket/mount fabricated or what?

My F350 is an 04 model. Is yours?

Thanks again,
Tom

---

If you drill and tap the factory cap you will definitely have to unscrew/disconnect the oil line when you remove the oil filter cap.

I did actually use those two holes in the battery tray to mount the bracket. Thing is, I used a Frantz mounting bracket instead of the MG. What I did is run a hose clamp through each hole in the battery tray and the clamps were run around the Frantz bracket, which secrured the heck out of it. Good luck!

By the way, my truck is an '04 F250.

 

[LateArrivalforLSU]

quote:

---

Originally posted by tperk100:
Go Hogs,

Thanks much for your reply. Does the OG filter cap you used have a swivel fitting or do you still have to disconnect the oil line to remove it?

Thanks again.

---

No swivel fitting. I'm not sure if the swivel fitting would be leak free on a pressurized place. I'd call Amsoil and ask them. Personally, I wouldn't worry about a swivel connection. There's nothing to undoing the hose and reconnecting the line back.

 

[tperk100]

Go Hogs,

Thanks much for your reply. Does the OG filter cap you used have a swivel fitting or do you still have to disconnect the oil line to remove it?

Thanks again.

 

[tperk100]

Go Hogs,

Thanks for all your help.

Now if only I can muster up the guts to punch the oil pan.

 

[LateArrivalforLSU]

quote:

---

Originally posted by tperk100:
Go Hogs,

Thanks for all your help.

Now if only I can muster up the guts to punch the oil pan.

---

There's nothing to it!

 

[tperk100]

I started to punch the hole and the pan was bending where I was hitting it.

I am still afraid of denting the pan around the hole so badly that the self tapping bolt's washer won't seal properly. Plus, although I see your pic, I am still uncertain about exactly where to punch the hole.

Any words of advice?

 

[LateArrivalforLSU]

quote:

---

Originally posted by tperk100:
I started to punch the hole and the pan was bending where I was hitting it.

I am still afraid of denting the pan around the hole so badly that the self tapping bolt's washer won't seal properly. Plus, although I see your pic, I am still uncertain about exactly where to punch the hole.

Any words of advice?

---

It's gonna bend a little where you are hitting it with the punch. Once the punch pierces the pan the bending lessens. Once the hole is large enough for the STHB to start it will "pull back" the bend slightly. Trust me, once the bolt is tightened and the rubber gasket is pushed hard against the pan it ain't gonna leak. Give it ****!

 

[LateArrivalforLSU]

Mount the STHB as high as you can so you can still the swing the hammer in order to hit the punch.

 

[rmattingley]

Here is what I did for returning the line to the filler cap.

I took the cap and drilled a 7/16 hole down the center of the cap. Then I took a piece of 3/8 tubing, about 3 inches long and squeezed it into the hole. Last I took a 90 degree barbed fitting and pushed it into the hose. What happens is the barbded fitting sqeezes the tubing against the wall of the cap and makes a pretty good seal. Plus it swivals for removal of the cap. Just remember when you drill the hole in the cap that it is just a touch smaller than the outside diameter of the hose you are using.