Budget by-pass oil filter install

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I bought my 2010 F150 with thoughts of it being my last new truck. Every one of my past trucks lasted 10-15 years and only once did I have to rebuild a motor or tranny. Lucky I guess, but I like to think that dedicated maintenance had a little something to do with getting on average of 175-250K on my old trucks.

With synthetic oil being required now, I was looking for a way to both extend my oil changes, and to ensure that I was not going to injure myself trying to change the oil in my new truck. BTW-this is the ONLY thing I dislike about this new truck. What were they thinking about when they put the filter there?

Solution: by-pass oil filter remote set-up (on a budget)

Parts required:
Dual filter remote oil filter kit (summit racing; G4986-1)
WIX by-pass filter (51641)
Modified filter nipple (3/4-16 1-1/4" long with 1/16" orifice)

The instructions for installing this were included in the dual oil filter remote location kit, except for the nipple modification.
The nipple modification consists of:
- tapping the ID of one of the supplied nipples with a 1/2-20
- take a 1/2-20 steel bolt and thread ~1/2" of it into the nipple
- saw off the part of the bolt sticking out of the nipple
- cut a groove across the face of the bolt sticking out of the nipple
- drill a 1/16" hole through the center of the bolt
- using a blade screwdriver, turn the bolt until it is just below the lip of the nipple
- tig the bolt piece in place (carefully)
- this is the nipple that you will install the by-pass filter onto.

The idea behind the modification is to reduce the flow of oil to 1/8 of the total flow. The slower flowing by-pass filter will capture the smaller particles that cause oil to become "dirty". You still have to service the full-flow filter per manufactures recommended intervals, but that is all you'll need to change (or clean). The by-pass filter change interval will be determined on how you drive and the enviornment you drive in. My city driving will likely require I change the by-pass filter 25-30K miles. The oil analysis reports should help me with when to change the oil.

This set-up cost me $165. (included additional items: reuseable full flow filter; Fumoto F-106N oil pan drain valve; 22"L x 3"W x 3/8" filter assembly mounting bracket; red wire loom)

Figure on taking a Saturday afternoon to do this install.

My thanks go to the invaluable info obtained from this forum that made this project possible.
 
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I did it once but it was confusing.

Enjoy that 4.6, it will last forever. I had one in my 07 Mustang GT and it loved Motorcraft 5w20. Good luck on the remote filter setup.

Is the standard oil filter just above the front axle on the drivers side?
 
Yes, the filter is located just above the crossmember, in an almost horziontal position. Hard to get to, messy, and starting the new filter is an "in the blind" operation.

To make matters worse, the OEM filter was on so tight, I had to use a breaker bar to get it off. The gasket was deformed against the lip of the filter retainer edge. ????

The relocated filter setup is just between the front bumper and the radiator. This location allows for the filters to act like coolers. I can stand and change the filters.

Good example of "big company" engine engineers not talking to the frame engineers... All the complaining aside, Ford still makes a good truck!
 
RK
Where does the outlet of the bypass element go? With the resistance of your orifice plus the resistance of the bypass filter media, I don't think you'll have any flow if you expect it to go into the relocation kit adapter.

I'd expect that you'd have to use two single adapters (or just one and the stock full flow filter) and send the bypass outflow back to the sump or another zero pressure location on the engine. The Amsoil dual unit has a restrictor built in that throttles the full flow thus creating the low pressure for the bypass element to discharge into.
 
The full flow filter and by-pass filter are in parallel on a single(dual filter)adaptor, with both receiving the same input "positive pressure" and the same "negative pressure" on the return side.

There is a reduced flow through the by-pass filter, as it does get warm during operation. Since the by-pass filter receives alot of air flow across it during driving, it doesn't get as warm as the full flow filter (hidden behind the front license plate).

After about 5-7K miles of driving on this set-up, I will see one of two results:

1. the synthetic oil still looks like new (by-pass doing its job)

OR

2. typical dirty oil (by-pass not functioning)

I'll report back to this post either way...
 
Good news! After 7K miles on the by-pass filter install, the oil looks like new.

Cleaned the reuseable filter, filled it with new oil, and re-installed it. 15 minutes.

I am happy to say that the Super Tech 5W-30 synthetic oil (6.5 qt = $23.40) will go on for another 5K before I report again.

(notes: I just changed the wife's Explorer oil after 5K miles...typical black oil in the catch pan. I use the same oil in all my vehicles. No by-pass filter set-up on this vehicle...yet.)
 
Why install a bypass filter for the oil, yet run a K&N air filter that lets all sorts of [censored] thru?

That makes absolutely no sense to me.
 
Originally Posted By: car54
Why install a bypass filter for the oil, yet run a K&N air filter that lets all sorts of [censored] thru?

That makes absolutely no sense to me.
Yep the most important filter is the air filter. Don't need a bypass filter.
 
Did more study on the air filter. Got to appreciate this forum for having the material and further references.

fyi - The K&N air filter was done without prior research. I just put one on because I've ran these since they first came out. Put 250,000+ on a 1996 Explorer 4.0 V/6 with one of these in the semi-stock air box.

Seems today's air filters aren't just paper. And, they flow plenty of air.

I will put the stock Motorcraft filter back in the air box, after I clean the MAF. Look for the K&N on ebay...:)

The by-pass filter was a first for one of my personal vehicles. Having the filters so accessable is big for me, but the results are what makes this modification worth the time and expense. I agree that it's not for everyone, especially those that don't do self-maintenance.
 
I generally believe that 250K+ is possible on any vehicle these days, fuel injection and better materials, machining and lubricants are just one small part.

With your bypass filter, proper lubricants and care, 500K should be easy. I'm nearing 300K on my car, using all stock filters and Schaeffers synthetic oil. It goes 10K without burning a drop and probably will for the next 200k
 
Originally Posted By: car54
I generally believe that 250K+ is possible on any vehicle these days, fuel injection and better materials, machining and lubricants are just one small part.


While I agree that engines can make it to higher mileage, I think my attraction to a bypass filter set up is the ability to go twice as long or more b/t oil changes.
 
Originally Posted By: RKMagTx



After about 5-7K miles of driving on this set-up, I will see one of two results:

1. the synthetic oil still looks like new (by-pass doing its job)

OR

2. typical dirty oil (by-pass not functioning)

I'll report back to this post either way...



I don't think you can tell if the oil is dirty or clean just by the color; especially in the newer motors. In any case, your setup is better than stock, and looks nice.
 
Originally Posted By: walk23
While clarity may not tell you the lubricity of the oil it does tell you the cleanliness of the engine.



Not necessarily...
 
Clean oil is a visual clue if you have a clean running engine. Leaking rings, gaskets, injectors, etc will all polute the oil (ie. causing it to discolor or look "dirty").

I've got 10K on the engine, with ~8K of that mileage on the same oil. I will continue to monitor this closely until the oil starts to turn dark. At that time I'll have it analyized. This will establish a pattern that I'll follow throughout the remaining time I maintain my truck.

Again, the goal is to extend the time between oil changes (reducing oil consumption), and to keep me out from under the truck.
 
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