Motor Guard By-Pass Filter

[RalphPWood]

They take 4 1/2" tall paper, I don't see the imprint on your roll in the picture, the 4 1/2" rolls compress down to 4 1/4". I have two Motor Guard M100's. You can still run the shorter paper by sending the flow up the center tube just like a Frantz.

They can handle the shorter paper. Push the paper down hard against the core seal and put on the top half. All you need to be concerned with is the seal around the core and a snug fit on the outside. If you have a San Jose model they only work with 1 1/2 inch cores. The later models that filtered from the bottom up you might add a spacer to push up on the core. They had a flat washer at the top for a core seal.

 

[RalphPWood]

Thanks for the question! You have just clued me into why Ralph Wood had that washer and lockring in place. I need physical items in hand to brainstorm. I have a hard time with mental envisioning. This has caused me to give more thought to my aluminum center tube. As of this question, using an empty center tube of scott (slightly larger inside diameter) I see where it could seal right down outside the castle under the right (wrong) conditions. I cut a plastic prototype washer out of some garage scrap and I now understand the flow path. I am considering some Vee notches cut at the end of the center cardboard of the TP to alleviate this possibility without the washer. But I think I like Ralph's idea better. Just ordered what I think is the correct external retaining ring (1-5/16) and some purchased possibilities for the washer all from McMaster-Carr. I will update once this stuff arrives and I go through the motions of evaluating it.

Actually I dont think you need anything with the shorter firm paper. I normally use Great Value 1000 from Walmart. Toss the white seals. Press a flat washer on the bottom for a core seal. I had a couple of 1/8 inch thick steel washers. 2 1/2 inch OD by 1 1/4 ID. Reamed them a little so they would press on. Dont need a center tube with the 1000 sheet. Wasnt too happy with the heavy steel washers but its what I had. Not sure whats happening with the Australian Jackmaster Classic. Nice filter with no center tube.

 

[RalphPWood]

I did some bench experimenting today with the M100 and Kirkland 380 sheet paper, using a sewing tape and pie R square formula I arrrived at 4.3" being the max diameter that fits properly in the housing, using the last sheet folded at a 45 degree angle, the paper did not pinch in the gasket. There is a long ago post by Ralph Wood were he sort of regretted telling people to wrap I do it a little different now with the shorter 1000 sheet.oversized rolls with shipping tape, explaining the paper should not be tight against the widest part in the housing as the gap introduces more filter surface area, he said the engineer who designed the M100 told him of the benefits of running slightly smaller diameter paper.

 

[RalphPWood]

I have a couple cases of Camco paper that is 4 1/2" tall and firm, but it has been discontinued and is now sold as a 4" paper, this was two years ago, don't know if you may be able to find a RV shop that has old stock, maybe? A310 uses Kirkland, it's the right height, it's a softer roll, but it compresses and looks like it will work not to bad, I have only dry fitted Kirkland, we use it around the house. The Frantz elements are 4 1/2" tall, the diameter may be a tenth of an inch smaller but it should still seal around the outside, I am unsure if you will be able to compress the Frantz paper, something I always thought of trying if I wanted a super firm 4 1/2" paper.

 

[RalphPWood]

OP, any updates on your M100D ?

All you need with the shorter 1000 sheet paper is a flat washer at the bottom and put the orifice at the inlet. Also it might not be needed but you can put a spacer at the top not larger than 2 1/2 inch diameter so when you tighten the tee handle the spacer pushes the core down against the core seal. No center tube is needed with the firm 1000 sheet. On the Pontiac I have no orifice. I use a Perma Cool universal 189 sandwich adapter that I got from Jegs years ago. For oil coolers but work the same for bypass filters. All we had was soft paper in the 60s. I normally use Great Value I 000 from Walmart. The Motor Guard pinches soft paper.

 

[RalphPWood]

All you need with the shorter 1000 sheet paper is a flat washer at the bottom and put the orifice at the inlet. Also it might not be needed but you can put a spacer at the top not larger than 2 1/2 inch diameter so when you tighten the tee handle the spacer pushes the core down against the core seal. No center tube is needed with the firm 1000 sheet. On the Pontiac I have no orifice. I use a Perma Cool universal 189 sandwich adapter that I got from Jegs years ago. For oil coolers but work the same for bypass filters. All we had was soft paper in the 60s. I normally use Great Value I 000 from Walmart. The Motor Guard pinches soft paper.

I like the shorter paper All I need to be concerned with is the core seal

 

[RalphPWood]

a tube, very similar to what I learned to do on here. I also

OP, any updates on your M100D ?

 

[RalphPWood]

They take 4 1/2" tall paper, I don't see the imprint on your roll in the picture, the 4 1/2" rolls compress down to 4 1/4". I have two Motor Guard M100's. You can still run the shorter paper by sending the flow up the center tube just like a Frantz.

I think the filters work better with the orifice at the inlet. Motor Guard said you could use the filters for fuel. The old Motor Guards compressed the paper down against the inlet. To filter fuel you had to drop something in the bottom to keep the paper off the inlet. Im no different than the rest of you guys. After over 60 years im still learning. A CNC machine shop recommended Dupont Delrin internal parts. Said thats what they use in engines. I found out Delrin cant take hot Texas motor oil. Its like the internal white part in the compressed air filters. It will deteriorate. I like the compressed air filters. The design is better. I liked the Motor Guard better than the Frantz. Most of us that have used these filters for 60 years probably started with a Frantz. Frantz came out in 1953 . Motor Guard came out in 1961.

 

[RalphPWood]

Hold off on using those sketches, jimmyjamesndt has brought a potential issue to my attention. See above.

Shouldnt need anything at the top with the shorter paper. All you need at the bottom is a seal larger than the toilet paper core put a orifice at the inlet. Push the paper down hard against the bottom. The origional compressed air filter was all metal the same as the origional lube oil filter. The core doesnt need to fit the filter cores.I like to use Perma Cool universal 189 sandwich adapters. JEGS and Summit.

 

[RalphPWood]

Ralph Wood had a flat washer at the top of the M30 to keep the tp core from blocking off the flow, is this not needed with the M100D? Looks like there are little pads for the plastic insert just outside the castle, does the tp core sit on these pads?

 

[RalphPWood]

The Camco is a good paper. The Motor Guard needs a firm paper such as Scott 1000 or what I use Great Value 1000 from Walmart. Gulf Coast filters used a firm 2 ply janitorial supply paper.in their filters. The soft paper doesnt work so well in a Motor Guard. I remember the old days when all we had was soft 2 ply and loose wound 1 ply. I would push the paper in with a knife blade as I tightened the tee handle. To hell with that. I think all you need with the Shorter paper is a washer at the bottom to seal around the core. And a orifice at the inlet or no orifice and a Perma Cool universal 189 sandwich adapter.

 

[RalphPWood]

OP, any updates on your M100D ?

The Australian Jackmaster Classic is a nice filter.It has no center tube. The toilet paper tube is the center tube. The core seal is a washer at the bottom. It needs a firm paper such as the Jackmaster paper. I think they work better with the orifice at the inlet. My Jackmaster Classic works great with no orifice and using a Perma Cool universal 189 oil cooler sandwich adapter. Could it be all the Motor Guard M 30 needs with the shorter firm paper is a flat washer at the bottom. I put a 2 1/2 inch OD washer on a M 30 bottom and it works great. I hope Jackmaster Classic isnt going away. They are a little iffy on Ebay. They are as good as Motor Guard.

 

[RalphPWood]

The Camco paper is 2 ply 500 sheet, there is 280 sheet 1 ply and it is loose wound garbage, you definately don't want the 1 ply.

I have a couple cases of Camco paper that is 4 1/2" tall and firm, but it has been discontinued and is now sold as a 4" paper, this was two years ago, don't know if you may be able to find a RV shop that has old stock, maybe? A310 uses Kirkland, it's the right height, it's a softer roll, but it compresses and looks like it will work not to bad, I have only dry fitted Kirkland, we use it around the house. The Frantz elements are 4 1/2" tall, the diameter may be a tenth of an inch smaller but it should still seal around the outside, I am unsure if you will be able to compress the Frantz paper, something I always thought of trying if I wanted a super firm 4 1/2" paper.

Dont know anything about the new Frantz elements. Bought a few in the 80s. Similar to Scott 1000 with a heavy duty core that didnt compress.

 

[RalphPWood]

So I found the Kirkland 4-1/2 long rolls at the local Costco. Unwrapped about 14 rounds of tissue from one and squeezed the center with clear boxing tape to help with the center bulge. Very resistant to blowing through this setup with my mouth. I gave it a underwater 15 - 20 psi air pressure test and my setup was leaking where the upper and lower half seals against the black rubber gasket. Upon inspection, the inner cardboard tube was bending over and getting between my machined aluminum tube and the filter body itself, preventing the center seal from being squeezed properly. I removed about .050" off my tube and all is well. Just thought I would put this out there in case anyone has a similar issue. Next step is to fabricate the restrictor.

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That paper looks a little soft and too large. The 1000 sheet Scott or the Great value 1000 from Walmart is easier to deal with. If you get a midriff bulge the paper is too soft or too big. To make a restrictor I run a 1/8 pipe tap into a 1/4 male to 1/4 female adapter and screw in a pipe plug. The one you use a allen wrench on. Then drill it 1/16 inch.

 

[RalphPWood]

They take 4 1/2" tall paper, I don't see the imprint on your roll in the picture, the 4 1/2" rolls compress down to 4 1/4". I have two Motor Guard M100's. You can still run the shorter paper by sending the flow up the center tube just like a Frantz.

Yes you will need to push the paper down against the bottom hard. Put the orifice at the inlet. The oil pressure should take over when you start the engine. With the shorter 1000 sheet you shouldnt need any tube. That looks like one that has a aluminum tube in the bottom and a plastic tube in the top half. Some of the Motor Guards filtered from the bottom up. I tilted mine so large stuff wont gravity back to the engine at shut down. The core looks good but isnt needed with the firm paper. You need a firm paper such as Great Value 1000 from Walmart. The Scott 1000 is good but you need to remove more rounds. You need a 4 1/4 inch diameter firm roll. If that model has no seal at the bottom you will need to fabricate a bottom core seal I used a 2 1/2 inch OD by 1 1/4 inch ID flat washer. Had to ream it a little so It could press on. The flat washer will stick to the used tp. Mine stuck to the used paper. I reamed it a little big. Put a external lock ring on. I havent claimed to be a machinist.

 

[RalphPWood]

Yes you will need to push the paper down against the bottom hard. Put the orifice at the inlet. The oil pressure should take over when you start the engine. With the shorter 1000 sheet you shouldnt need any tube. That looks like one that has a aluminum tube in the bottom and a plastic tube in the top half. Some of the Motor Guards filtered from the bottom up. I tilted mine so large stuff wont gravity back to the engine at shut down. The core looks good but isnt needed with the firm paper. You need a firm paper such as Great Value 1000 from Walmart. The Scott 1000 is good but you need to remove more rounds. You need a 4 1/4 inch diameter firm roll. If that model has no seal at the bottom you will need to fabricate a bottom core seal I used a 2 1/2 inch OD by 1 1/4 inch ID flat washer. Had to ream it a little so It could press on. The flat washer will stick to the used tp. Mine stuck to the used paper. I reamed it a little big. Put a external lock ring on. I havent claimed to be a machinist.

They take 4 1/2" tall paper, I don't see the imprint on your roll in the picture, the 4 1/2" rolls compress down to 4 1/4". I have two Motor Guard M100's. You can still run the shorter paper by sending the flow up the center tube just like a Frantz.

 

[RalphPWood]

The last two I did I didnt use the center tube. I dont think the center tube is needed with the shorter firm paper. Nothing is needed in the top half. With the filter open push the paper down hard against the bottom seal. If the seal is at the top it would be good to put a spacer in the bottom to push up on the core seal as the tee handle is tightened.

 

[RalphPWood]

Here is the fold if you were wondering what it is.
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With the shorter paper nothing is needed at the top. Also the center tube isnt needed with the 1000 sheet. The orifice works best at the inlet. For the bottom core seal I just did a couple of filters using a 2 1/2 inch OD by 1 1/4 inch ID flat washer. The 2 1/2 inch OD washer is bigger than necessary but I like the looks of the imprint on the used paper. Had to ream the ID of the washer Reamed it a little too much. It sticks to the used paper . Its a vacuum seal like my teeth. Put a lock ring on to keep it in the bottom.

 

[RalphPWood]

With the shorter paper nothing is needed at the top. Also the center tube isnt needed with the 1000 sheet. The orifice works best at the inlet. For the bottom core seal I just did a couple of filters using a 2 1/2 inch OD by 1 1/4 inch ID flat washer. The 2 1/2 inch OD washer is bigger than necessary but I like the looks of the imprint on the used paper. Had to ream the ID of the washer Reamed it a little too much. It sticks to the used paper . Its a vacuum seal like my teeth. Put a lock ring on to keep it in the bottom. Thats with the M 30 Motor Guard.

 

[RalphPWood]

With take 4 1/2" tall paper, I don't see the imprint on o n the paper. the picture, the 4 1/2" rolls compress down to 4 1/4". I have two Motor Guard M100's. You can still run the shorter paper by sending the flow up the center tube just like a Frantz.

Jimmy is correct. With the shorter paper push the paper down hard against the bottom. Put the orifice at the inlet. When you start the engine the oil pressure should keep downward pressure on the seal.