More silly fluorescent ballast questions

[y_p_w]

I was just looking over my setup where I replaced fluorescent tubes/ballasts with direct-wire LED tubes. In this one it's a 4' 120V dimmable pair, but that's neither here nor there. I also turned it into a lot fewer wires with wire nuts connecting to a single hot and a single neutral wire to one socket and where I used a short pair of wires to jump those to the other socket.

However, the original warning stickers on the fixture are still there. One says to only replace the ballast with a Class A ballast of the same specifications. I didn't pay too much attention at the time, but I used a Philips Class P electronic ballast. It's much smaller, much lighter, but still fits in the standard mounting holes. The newer ballast itself says to use "rapid start sockets" whatever that means. I couldn't find anything either way, but the old sockets and the newer sockets I've installed are all rated at up tp 600V and 660W.

Do any of this really matter? Obviously it's rather difficult to find magnetic ballasts these days. I'm just kind of curious if any of that really makes a difference. The retrofit ticket I put on the wire cover says to not replace with anything except a 120V tube from the same manufacturer, but I'm pretty sure that the way I've hooked it up it should work fine with any other single-ended T8/12 4' direct wire tube equivalent.

 

[JC1]

So you have direct wire led, however you still wired in a ballast?

I gave up on those fixtures in the garage and got some barrina led tubes. Huge difference in light and none of that flickering nonsense when ballasts get cold.

 

[y_p_w]

So you have direct wire led, however you still wired in a ballast?

I gave up on those fixtures in the garage and got some barrina led tubes. Huge difference in light and none of that flickering nonsense when ballasts get cold.

No. I wired it for single ended ballast bypass tubes from toggled. I still have my old ballasts lying around and looked at the labels. I've got an old magnetic ballast that needs to be disposed of and the rapid start electronic ballast replacement when the former failed. The original certification and warning labels are still on the fixture. Plus the modification label I applied after I did the direct wire. I'm just thinking that most people ignore these warning when they know what they're doing. Certainly the direct wire doesn't confirm with all the warning labels on the fixture.