More outdoor network cable damage

[Donald]

See if this is what you're looking for:

Cat 6 Outdoor with Messenger Ethernet Cable 100FT USA Made

This premium Cat 6 (UTP) Outdoor Gel-Filled Aerial with Messenger Ethernet cable supports all category 6 applications and is made in the USA!

www.lanshack.com

I was never sure if STP or UTP would be better for handling surges related to storms.

I have about 200' on one roll and 1000' on another roll on the shelf.

 

[brianl703]

I was never sure if STP or UTP would be better for handling surges related to storms.

I have about 200' on one roll and 1000' on another roll on the shelf.

It might if it was a substantial shield like that used on OSP telephone cable. So thick you could cut yourself on it. The usual foil/mylar shield doesn't offer much, if any, protection.

Worth noting that OSP telephone cables in the UK are unshielded. Presumably because they don't share poles with power distribution so a power cross is unlikely.

 

[mk378]

I'd use OM4 fiber, underground. Detaching yourself from those poles will make everything about this happier.

 

[Donald]

I'd use OM4 fiber, underground. Detaching yourself from those poles will make everything about this happier.

The 12 to 15 access points are all on telephone poles. And need POE. No buildings to mount most of them on.

 

[brianl703]

The 12 to 15 access points are all on telephone poles. And need POE. No buildings to mount most of them on.

Just run fiber to all the poles and then install solar panels and batteries to power them...

 

[mk378]

Run a power cable along with the fiber underground. If you energize 16/2 cable with 240 volts from a step-up transformer, it can move quite a bit of power.

You could save quite a bit of cost by making only every third site a fiber terminus / power /switch site. The two sites on either side of it would be a single PoE Ethernet to an AP.

 

[Lubener]

Lightning strike damage ? How is the earth ground handle

Probably ground loop issues. Two lightning strikes, I doubt it.

 

[97K15004WD]

Check your grounding. Measure from the DUT to a ground rod you drive into the soil. Not knowing your soil composition, I would at least start with a minimum per code requirement in your area. To drive the rod, make a "water" driver with conduit and a hose attachment and "drill" the hole first, then insert the ground rod. While the ground is wet, use your meter to test the DUT case ground to your new ground. Any differential voltage is a problem and this needs to be solved first.

If your grounding is good, then move on to the other issues. Water intrusion from high humidity can cause these issues too. If this is at your demarc, then temperature differential can cause this too. Like the others have said, the flooded cable is best to prevent water intrusion, but you might need a desiccant, heater, or something like that in that connection box.

If these buildings are not used all the time, do they turn off the power and let the temperature and humidity go "out of control"?

 

[Donald]

We had an electrician replace the 200' of outdoor CAT6. It entered the building about 35 feet from the ground. About 20' high than I want to climb. As you age you limit how high you want to climb.

Problem resolved.

But now I will know more when I see a burned connector. That's important in my mind.

 

[Donald]

Check your grounding. Measure from the DUT to a ground rod you drive into the soil. Not knowing your soil composition, I would at least start with a minimum per code requirement in your area. To drive the rod, make a "water" driver with conduit and a hose attachment and "drill" the hole first, then insert the ground rod. While the ground is wet, use your meter to test the DUT case ground to your new ground. Any differential voltage is a problem and this needs to be solved first.

If your grounding is good, then move on to the other issues. Water intrusion from high humidity can cause these issues too. If this is at your demarc, then temperature differential can cause this too. Like the others have said, the flooded cable is best to prevent water intrusion, but you might need a desiccant, heater, or something like that in that connection box.

If these buildings are not used all the time, do they turn off the power and let the temperature and humidity go "out of control"?

None of the buildings are occupied in the winter. No water or power except one building that houses the historical items dating back over 100 years.

Switches in the attics of some. Hot enough in the summer in the attics where I don't want have to work on a switch. Hard to crimp on a new RJ45 connector with sweat running down your arms and hands.

 

[SHOZ]

I use to get lightning damage a lot. Hit outside but traveled inside until it grounded. The stereo was particular vulnerable and usually the radio with antenna. I put on a whole house lighting protector. Basically a large surge protector across the two hot legs ahead of the breaker. Haven't had an issue in twenty years since.

 

[brianl703]

If you energize 16/2 cable with 240 volts from a step-up transformer, it can move quite a bit of power.

How to do that in a code-compliant manner is another question.

This is a commercial space. What you think is OK to do in your own backyard isn't going to be OK here.