More Junk Parts. Very Frustrating.

I should also mention that - while the car is waiting on parts, I still have to start it every day because the cloyes timing chain tensioners back off after a few days and it has terrible timing chain rattle on cold start. Another thing I need to fix.
Isn't that ratcheting metal?
 
Noticed that the grand marquis had started to shimmy agaain. I had to pull one of the wheels off to replace a dryrotted valve stem from 2022 ... another failed part .... When I went to put the lug wrench on the wheel moved a bit. Thought it was a wheel bearing again ...

Discovered that one of my tierod ends (MOOG) has got lose and has a bunch of slack in it. Little disappointed since these only have about 12000 miles on them.

This is after I replaced wheel bearings in November (originals went 168000 miles), March and April of this year.

Last year I replaced the original fuel pump at 163000 miles and 24 years. The Delphi fuel pump went a month and 1300 miles before failing and leaving me in a construction zone on a 95 degree day.

New cars are apparently all garbage. Can't find good parts for old vehicles.

If I didn't drive so much ... leasing would make sense.
I just replace a 14 year old evap purge valve on my 2012 Hyundai Genesis with a new Gates valve. It lasted 3 days before it died. "Open Purge valve circuit" error code. It was Chinese made of course.
 
Isn't that ratcheting metal?

They are the ratcheting tensioners. However, the way they're keyed ... makes no sense. All the ratcheting mechanism seems to do is stop them from extending out far? And that goes for the originals I pulled off of both my 4.6 and 5.4. I really don't understand how they do much of anything.

With that said, I used the same brand timing kit on my 2 valve 5.4 and that thing can sit for 6 months and have zero timing chain rattle.
 
  • Wow
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They are the ratcheting tensioners. However, the way they're keyed ... makes no sense. All the ratcheting mechanism seems to do is stop them from extending out far? And that goes for the originals I pulled off of both my 4.6 and 5.4. I really don't understand how they do much of anything.

With that said, I used the same brand timing kit on my 2 valve 5.4 and that thing can sit for 6 months and have zero timing chain rattle.
It should be that oil pressure pushes 'em out but at certain points the next tooth catches and they can only retract so far.

There's a degree of float because the teeth are very "coarse" and so some rattle on start up isn't necessarily unusual until oil pressure builds.
 
Cannot be sure, based on comparative appearance, I don´t believe so.
TI Automotive/Walbro is the OEM for much of Detroit. If it has Bosch markings on the module/pump, that’s different. Japanese cars can be Denso/Aisan, Hitachi or Keihin.

Delphi seems to be a Chinese rebrander now, unless COO was Mexico from a former GM Delphi plant. FWIW, a friend installed a Delphi module into a 1996-2003 F-150(4.6L 2V) and COO was Mexico. Seems to work fine about 4 years later. Else, it would have been Chinesium Precision Brand or TruGrade from O’Reilly or AZ. Carter is no more thanks to First Brands going OOB, Airtex got absorbed into ASC.
 
Last year I replaced the original fuel pump at 163000 miles and 24 years. The Delphi fuel pump went a month and 1300 miles before failing and leaving me in a construction zone on a 95 degree day.
When I had mine I replaced the fuel pump around 100k. Once I figured out that they use break off studs for the tank straps, it was an easy job. I did not empty my tank all the way so it was a bit heavy when removing it.
 
TI Automotive/Walbro is the OEM for much of Detroit. If it has Bosch markings on the module/pump, that’s different. Japanese cars can be Denso/Aisan, Hitachi or Keihin.

Delphi seems to be a Chinese rebrander now, unless COO was Mexico from a former GM Delphi plant. FWIW, a friend installed a Delphi module into a 1996-2003 F-150(4.6L 2V) and COO was Mexico. Seems to work fine about 4 years later. Else, it would have been Chinesium Precision Brand or TruGrade from O’Reilly or AZ. Carter is no more thanks to First Brands going OOB, Airtex got absorbed into ASC.

The carter pump was a disappointment in my Cherokee. I put one in because it needed one after 23 years and 215000 miles. Paid extra for Carter thinking I was getting quality ... I got an Airtex with carter stickers on it.

When I had mine I replaced the fuel pump around 100k. Once I figured out that they use break off studs for the tank straps, it was an easy job. I did not empty my tank all the way so it was a bit heavy when removing it.

I didn't have to drop the tank on mine to do the pump, thankfully. You can't get the hardware to attach the tank straps any more. I used an inline fuel pump hooked up before the filter to pump the tank out.

I did cut / splice the wiring harness that goes underneath the car for the EVAP stuff. The connector was run through the strap and wouldn't fit.
 
TI Automotive/Walbro is the OEM for much of Detroit. If it has Bosch markings on the module/pump, that’s different. Japanese cars can be Denso/Aisan, Hitachi or Keihin.

Delphi seems to be a Chinese rebrander now, unless COO was Mexico from a former GM Delphi plant. FWIW, a friend installed a Delphi module into a 1996-2003 F-150(4.6L 2V) and COO was Mexico. Seems to work fine about 4 years later. Else, it would have been Chinesium Precision Brand or TruGrade from O’Reilly or AZ. Carter is no more thanks to First Brands going OOB, Airtex got absorbed into ASC.
I have a Walbro 255 fp in the truck- quiet, works fine, pulls less amps than a Denso better choice than others I've used- but the name....sounds like some kind of toy.
 
Subarus used to be a good value, but they're just crazy on price now (what isn't?).

I had a 2018 Forester than I loved. Unfortunately, it had 7 warranty visits for non functional AC and was sold to Carvana with non functional AC at 48 or 58k miles ... can't remember.

Everyone told me the engine would burn oil or leak and I never had any consumption except the one run where I used Mobil 1
My parents took their 2018 Subaru Impreza in to the dealership two or three times as the A/C isn't ice cold. Subaru recharged it purged the lines, Nada. There was a recall on the dryer parts / compressor but I don't think the Impreza qualified. Seems okay to me but my parents live in Arizona. A similar situation happened with the Z32 Nissan 300ZX. My friends step dad had one, and the A/C was never super cold. Supposedly Nissan Japan never tested it in the USA but in coastal Japan. They never tested the A/C in 117 Arizona summer. Subaru did have an extension and free replacement of the A/C condenser and lines.
"
A/C Condenser Warranty Extension (Campaign WRB-21)
  • The Problem: The A/C condenser tube walls are prone to internal corrosion, which allows refrigerant to leak out and the A/C to stop blowing cold air"
 
My parents took their 2018 Subaru Impreza in to the dealership two or three times as the A/C isn't ice cold. Subaru recharged it purged the lines, Nada. There was a recall on the dryer parts / compressor but I don't think the Impreza qualified. Seems okay to me but my parents live in Arizona. A similar situation happened with the Z32 Nissan 300ZX. My friends step dad had one, and the A/C was never super cold. Supposedly Nissan Japan never tested it in the USA but in coastal Japan. They never tested the A/C in 117 Arizona summer. Subaru did have an extension and free replacement of the A/C condenser and lines.
"
A/C Condenser Warranty Extension (Campaign WRB-21)
  • The Problem: The A/C condenser tube walls are prone to internal corrosion, which allows refrigerant to leak out and the A/C to stop blowing cold air"
I went through 2 compressors, 2 condensers, a set of lines, o rings and it never worked right ... or at all.
 
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