Mopar to ya!

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Not a Mopar guy. What is the story here?

I was a Mopar guy, but this is before my time!

I didn't realize the point of this was to drop voltage to the coil. I just read something about 80/90s Mopar electrical systems being very robust and designed to take up to 20 volts in the event the regulator built into the SBEC failed and the system got the full output of the alternator.
 
I used to keep a ballast resistor in the glovebox of my '73 New Port Custom. It was $2 at that time and in 8 years of ownership, it was fortunate that I never had to use it but at least I had one if needed..
 
I didn't realize the point of this was to drop voltage to the coil.

This is a good summary: https://mopowergarage.blog/2025/11/...sistor-and-how-technicians-can-test-it-today/

The Real Reason the Ballast Resistor Exists

At the heart of any ignition system lies the coil, a device that transforms low battery voltage into the high voltage required to fire a spark plug. However, coils are sensitive to current. Feed a coil a full 13.5 to 14.2 volts continuously, as produced by a running alternator, and current will rise high enough to overheat the coil and damage points or early electronic modules. Chrysler engineers addressed this by installing a ballast resistor in series with the coil during normal operation.

Once the engine is running, the resistor drops voltage to the coil to approximately seven to nine volts. This reduction keeps the coil at a safe operating temperature, protects the ignition module, and ensures stable firing over long periods of driving.
 
About 30 years ago we were driving a 1980 Plymouth Volare wagon with the venerable Slant Six.

My wife had to get to work for 4 p.m. and phoned me at my work, sometime after 3, to say that the car would start fine, but would die when she touched the accelerator.

I asked her whether the engine was actually quitting as soon as she released the key. Yes, she confirmed.

I stepped her through finding a piece of wire in the garage, stripping the ends, and installing it across the open ballast resistor. With hesitation she did the workaround, and got the car going.

She did a very neat job on the bypass, and I replaced the ballast resistor the next day.

All this before we had cell phones it internet - I was really impressed she worked through it.
 
I stepped her through finding a piece of wire in the garage, stripping the ends, and installing it across the open ballast resistor. With hesitation she did the workaround, and got the car going.

That's pretty amazing. Not only with her willingness, but with the patience it probably required to walk her though it.
 
I was a Mopar guy, but this is before my time!

I didn't realize the point of this was to drop voltage to the coil. I just read something about 80/90s Mopar electrical systems being very robust and designed to take up to 20 volts in the event the regulator built into the SBEC failed and the system got the full output of the alternator.
This was used on the points distributors.
 
I'd note that your behavior influences the failure rate. If you leave the key in the run position, but the engine is off, it can overheat. So, if you have a habit of doing this, you may see the failure multiple times. Folks that avoid that, could never see it.
 
The 1st electronic ignitions had 2 ballasts, for the ECU and the coil. The one for the ECU was removed.

I'd note that the lack of an external ballast doesn't mean you didn't have a ballast at all, some coils had an internal one.
 
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