Mopar P/sS fluid. 1998 Jeep.MS-99602???

[kawzak]

The dealer sold me (for my power steering) part # 68218064AA which is a MS-9602 +4 compatable fluid. I was instructed that part # 04883077 is a MS 5931 fluid was the one I should use ( by a very knowledgable Jeeper) The PDF of Mopar fluids shows part # 05166226 AA which is also a MS 9602 fluid and + 4 compatable. Here is the problem-I siphoned out 4-5 oz and put the new stuff in (first part # listed). I don't want to create any problems with seals/hoses. An old Clilton manual I looked at said MS 7476 (I think) or Dextron II. So any thoughts ?.

 

[Greasymechtech]

What jeep? engine?

And is why I avoid the dealer. Better off with psf from the local autopart store.

 

[kawzak]

1998 Jeep wrangler sport w/4.0L FWIW most of the auto parts stores in this small town don't know either. That is why I went to the dealer. Their parts guy said let check with the front end mech. (maybe so/maybe no). That is why I am trying to find out here. Thanks

 

[NHGUY]

Chrysler didn't use ATF+4 in PS systems until 2001.This is probably regular PS fluid you can buy anywhere.Check your application on Amsoil.com

 

[AandPDan]

Look up TSB 19-005-03 it applies to your Jeep.

The factory fill was MS5931. The approved service fluid is MS5931.

There is this note in the TSB as well:
"MS9602 should not be mixed or used as a “topping off” fluid on systems requiring MS5931. On some past models, MS9602 should be used as the replacement fluid. On these models, if a power steering system is being serviced that results in a large fluid loss, such as a pump, hose or gear/rack replacement, the complete system should be drained and filled with MS9602."

A link to the tsb is here: TSB 19-005-03

 

[kawzak]

Thanks AandPDan, that answers the question.Since I replaced about 4oz with the wrong stuff-no leaks, just was trying to replace a little with new. Now I am going to see if the dealer will "give" me another quart of the MS 9602, since I am going to have to drain it completely and start over. I am guessing that the system holds about (2) quarts.I have read about bleeding the air out procedure.

 

[kawzak]

This is getting better yet. The Jeep/Dodge dealer says the MS-5931 is obsolete, and superceeded by the MS-9602 + 4 stuff they sold me. The TSB says NOT to use anything else BUT the MS-5931. The TSB is from 2003. So far Chrysler hs not answered my E-mail. I am willing to drain and refill with the newer MS-9602-if I knew how much fluid it would take. says nothing in Hanes or Chilton Manual on amount of P/S fluid.

 

[HangFire]

Valvoline makes a white bottle clear/amber MS5931 Power Steering fluid, not marked Pyroil, Quart Part# 602241.0 UPC 74130-79089-6 . This is the easiest to locate clear/amber MS5931 I can find. Most auto parts stores have it.

Yes it can be replaced by any ATF+4 but not topped-off, as the TSB says.

I have one of the last '01 Dakota's to have MS5931 and it is due for a P/S fluid refresh. I have decided to stay with MS5931, using Valvoline as the replacement fluid. I just don't want to introduce anything new that might risk my rack.

The original MS5931 factory fill got me 7 years until the hoses leaked, and the current fill got me through until now. My power steering still works perfectly. With a track record like that I'll stick with a good thing. If I ever have to replace the rack I'll probably go with ATF+4 to simplify logistics, because the 4WD transfer case also uses ATF+4.

If you go with the ATF+4 replacement, I would run it a bit and then completely drain and refill again.

 

[AandPDan]

Originally Posted By: HangFire
I have one of the last '01 Dakota's to have MS5931 and it is due for a P/S fluid refresh. I have decided to stay with MS5931, using Valvoline as the replacement fluid. I just don't want to introduce anything new that might risk my rack.


I have an '00 Dakota and feel the same way. I only use the MS5931 fluid too.

 

[kawzak]

The MS 5931 is no longer available-and is superceeded by the MS 9602 +4 fluid. There is no good way to drain the gearbox-unless you take it off the frame-so I used a mighty vac and pumped out 8-9 oz out of the pump. Fill with +4, run/drive, pull out another 8-9oz, fill with more new +4. did this a few times. I am thinking this is about as good as I am going to get. After a few days I will look. If it is not perfectly red-I will do it again. Eventually I may get 95% + of the old oil out.

 

[HangFire]

Kawzak,

Since you got started down this path by your dealer, you're probably going the right route by following through with the ATF+4 conversion.

Since I last posted on this thread, I did a drain and fill with the Valvoline MS5931 certified fluid. I combined both methods. First I pumped out and refilled the pump reservoir as kawzak stated. Then I pulled the return hose and ran the engine for 3 seconds.

Please be advised that the "low pressure side" return hose still has reasonable pressure and very high volume, especially when the hose flexes out of the bucket under pressure. Fortunately, cleanup was facilitated by my wife's discarding a bunch of large old bath towels into the garage rag bin, my epoxy floor covering, and some brake cleaner I had handy.

Anyway I think my flush method both fastest and most thorough, because on one 3 second run the rack gets all-new fluid from the pump, and dumps its old out at the same time. I would not call it easy, though. Even if I had avoided the mini-Valdez incident by using a weighted-down bucket and securing the hose with clamps, I still had to cut off the old hose and then dremel-cut off the end and its clamp.

Now that I've done (what seems to be) a complete exchange, I'm going to maintain it more often using the pump from the top method.

 

[kawzak]

Hangfire and others-Thanks for the replies. I did not want to run the pump, while it was pushing out the fluid-because I did not want to chance the pump rotor running dry. but since you said this I am thinking I could take the belt off the pump and turn by hand an manually pump out the fluid- at least most. Thanks