Moog R-Line Control Arms = Taiwan COO

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Needed front lower control arms for the in-law’s 08 Camry. OE was $170/ea ($340 total), these were $123 shipped for the pair.

Usually aftermarket control arms are made in china, but these are Made in Taiwan. I heard a rumor that suspension parts from Taiwan are a step-up from the ones made in China, but that is probably in relative terms. The warranty is 36 months so we shall see.

Note: the bushing, ball joint boot and ball joint are all stamped “SH.” I think this company was the supplier: http://www.shautoparts.com/company
 

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Delphi control arms seem to be made in Turkey. Proforged is made in Taiwan, but I have heard good things about them.
 
I have had good luck out of the Moog arms for my Accord. Their compliance bushing seems to be holding up just fine. (As opposed to the Mevotech's I put on my TL, absolute and total junk. So soft you could deflect the bushing by hand.)
 
I used AC Delco control arms which were made in Taiwan on a Cobalt. They failed within two years.

The GM Original from the dealer (made in Canada) lasted longer, still good when car was sold.
 
On alot of their "premium" Problem Solver lines, they just rebox from an OE supplier like Sankei 555. Does anyone know if the basic R model is designed and made by Moog's factories, or is it just another rebox from a bargain basement supplier?
 
On alot of their "premium" Problem Solver lines, they just rebox from an OE supplier like Sankei 555. Does anyone know if the basic R model is designed and made by Moog's factories, or is it just another rebox from a bargain basement supplier?
Probably designed by Moog but built by an offshore supplier.

Sankei 555 isn’t OE, they’re just a very good aftermarket supplier from Japan.
 
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This link (from MOOG) explaines the difference between R, CK series.
Getting the best MOOG product would mean getting the CK series.

.
 
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Whatever happened to just replacing the bushings?

Some of them are quite doable but others especially some aluminum ones have a ball joint that is not replaceable, by the time the bushings are shot the joint or joint boot has pretty much had it also.
On some cars using the OE arms with new bushings is the best way to go and easy to do. I use OE only control arms after many bad experiences with aftermarket. I just bought 2 for my own Saab at $165ea vs $80-100 from Rock. Doing the job 2 or 3 times, sending parts back and forth, multiple alignments and untold aggravation then having to buy the OE stuff anyway is worth much more than the $130 saved up front.
 
Whatever happened to just replacing the bushings?
I still replace the bushings if the dealer sells the arms, but Toyota does not. At least not for the FWD control arms.

I usually replace Honda compliance bushings but I have noticed lately that the replacement bushings simply don't last as long as the originals. And yes, I torque the bushings under load.
 
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